Jump to content

Dismantling Thrustmaster Warthog throttle


Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

 

recently bought a used Thrustmaster Warthog and the coolie switch on the front of the right hand throttle is defective. Have already received a spare from Thrustmaster, and would like to know if anybody can give me any tips on dismantling the throttle unit in order to replace the coolie hat...seems that plenty of people have dismantled the stick, but i cant find any info on the throttle anywhere..:helpsmilie:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at it id say, try to take off the screews in bettween the throtles (on the right one only obviously :) ) and also the little screew in front of the Mic switch. See if that allows you to open the right throtle without having to removi it from the base. I'm thinking that maybe the back cover (the curve part where your palm rests may come off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers mate, could open it that way. However, my problem was not solved. I connected the new coolie hat to the opened throttle to see if all was then good before dismantling the whole unit. The same failure occured with the new component.

 

The coolie hat only reacts to an upward movement. Any movement to the left or right or downwards will not register. Has anybody got an idea what the cause could be??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both sides of each throttle come off once the screws are out, however you may find the coolie hat is glued in with hot melt glue or it could just be a simple nut and washer that unscrews.

I have had the left throttle apart because my wife picked up the throttle during her dusting even though she is under strict instructions not to touch my desk or anything on it.

Bless her she didn't realise how heavy it was picking it up one handed and lost her grip and dropped it on the floor which subsequently broke the little pinkie switch on the side.

Fortuitously it didn't actually break i opened up the throttle from both sides unscrewed the switch prised it open and the pole inside had bent ever so slightly causing the switch to become jammed, straightened it out and all working again.

 

So in answer to your question yes you can and theres quite a bit of room inside both of them depending on the size of your fingers take pictures to as you go along so you have a reference to go back to incase you forget what goes where.

Eagles may soar high but weasel's don't get sucked into jet engines.

 

 

System Spec.

Monitors: Samsung 570DX & Rift CV1

Mobo: MSI Godlike gaming X-99A

CPU: Intel i7 5930K @ 3.50Ghz

RAM: 32gb

GPU: EVGA Nvidia GTX 980Ti VR Ready

Cooling: Predator 360

Power Supply: OCZ ZX Series 80 Plus Gold

Drives: Samsung SSD's 1tb, 500g plus others with OS Win10 64 bit

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jay, i managed to open the throttle without any problems.

 

Thing is, i connected a brand new Coolie hat just received from Thrustmaster and the Problem still persists, it has not gone away...

 

I have no idea what it could be. Coolie hat up is fine, any other direction is not registered ...

 

Anybody have an idea?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How does the coolie hat connect inside the throttle does it plug in or did you have to solder it, it haven't personally opened up that side.

 

The wires must run down the shaft of the throttle to the base so like albell67 said check the base for broken contacts as the throttle gets pulled and pushed there may not be enough slack in the wires from day dot and perhaps one or two of them have stretched and snapped or even been pulled from their points.

Or if theres a plug to the board at the base end it may have worked lose.

Also they have changed the wiring configuration of these through different productions.

 

Sorry for the late reply but i have been flying.

Eagles may soar high but weasel's don't get sucked into jet engines.

 

 

System Spec.

Monitors: Samsung 570DX & Rift CV1

Mobo: MSI Godlike gaming X-99A

CPU: Intel i7 5930K @ 3.50Ghz

RAM: 32gb

GPU: EVGA Nvidia GTX 980Ti VR Ready

Cooling: Predator 360

Power Supply: OCZ ZX Series 80 Plus Gold

Drives: Samsung SSD's 1tb, 500g plus others with OS Win10 64 bit

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

resend back to thrustmaster if still under warranty.

AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS

 

Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tell me how many wires are connected to this 8 way switch. I'm a secondary school robotics teacher and I have to teach students how to diagnose this kind of issue on a regular basis.

John

Asus ROG C6H | AMD Ryzen 3600 @ 4.2Ghz | Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080ti | 32Gb Crucial DDR4/3600 | 2Tb Intel NVMe drive | Samsung Odyssey+ VR | Thrustmaster Warthog | Saitek pedals | Custom geothermal cooling loop with a homemade 40' copper heat exchanger 35' in the ground

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tell me how many wires are connected to this 8 way switch. I'm a secondary school robotics teacher and I have to teach students how to diagnose this kind of issue on a regular basis.

John

 

OT.

 

I was born too soon. ;)

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OT.

 

I was born too soon. ;)

We both were. I'd like to wake up in 100 years from now. what an adventure that would be...

Asus ROG C6H | AMD Ryzen 3600 @ 4.2Ghz | Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080ti | 32Gb Crucial DDR4/3600 | 2Tb Intel NVMe drive | Samsung Odyssey+ VR | Thrustmaster Warthog | Saitek pedals | Custom geothermal cooling loop with a homemade 40' copper heat exchanger 35' in the ground

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look for extra solder under the connectors for the wires. Mine was shorting the switches in the right throttle like that straight out of the factory.

 

What you need to do basically is A) check that all the wires have a connection between the coolie hat and the right throttle board.

B) check the same for the harness that goes from right throttle board to the throttle main board

C) check for extra solder under the connectors for the above.

warthog_throttle_short.thumb.jpg.5f790376ed602f1984e505efdd01817a.jpg

 

if all this fails, you have a burned IO chip somewhere or bad soldering not making a contact.


Edited by bn880

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tell me how many wires are connected to this 8 way switch. I'm a secondary school robotics teacher and I have to teach students how to diagnose this kind of issue on a regular basis.

John

attachment.php?attachmentid=90077&d=1382753702

If you look at the pic I posted above, it's the left-most switch, I count 7 wires.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

For what it's worth, I had a coolie switch that wouldn't register up.  Turns out, it was a broken trace, scratched by a screw when I was re-assembling after a mod.  I'm like a bull in a china shop sometimes.  If you're like me, look at the board near the big screws that hold the sections together and see if there's damage.  Managed to reconnect the trace with a thin wire, scraping the resist back a little on each side, and some careful soldering.  Used flux and a fine tip.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...