Alburgs A-10 Fuel System Panel

After reading through some threads, I thought lets give it a try and make you own panel.

As I wanted to get rid of the cardboard box( it had the perfect height), my Hotas throttle was standing on, I had a friend cut out the left hand console, on a cnc router.

Thats why I ended up choosing the fuel panel, as my first panel to start of with, as I think it is the easiest one on the left console.

So I basically found some CAD drawings which I modified for my needs.

I then had the backplate laser cut for 13€ + postage and ordered all required materials.

I'll be using DCS-Bios and an Arduino Mega.

Yeah I now the SIG AMPL switch is off by 5mm. I've already correct my CAD drawing.

My shopping list and pin layout

I am still not quite sure which way to go with the front panel.

At the moment I am thinking of going the one piece method.

But I am still looking for someone with the required tools.

I'll have to wait a couple of days to see if the panel is working in DCS, as I did a pretty stupid and anoying mistake.

I ordered female instead of male pins for my DSUB connector.

Cheers Sven

Looking nice sir! I'm using plastic to do my panel. The top layer is black on top which can be engraved with a V-bit. I've not tried cutting any metals yet but I believe I can do this on my CNC. It would probably not look as nice as your laser cut however.

You should check the DCS A10C manual for a description of that panel. As I recall several switches/buttons are non functional in the sim so there is no need to wire them to the Arduino Mega. You could also get by with a smaller board such as a Nano which is only a $2.55 purchase from China.

Good luck on your project. Please post some pictures when it's done.

Hi John,

at the moment I am just "experimenting", if this is a hobby I would want to follow.

I already have one expensive hobby and that is motorsports.

My plan was as follows.

Divide the "Cockpit" in three modules.

1. LH console

2. RH console

3. Center

Each module is build up on an MEGA. All pins should be used and then I'll use Nanos or Unos in the RS-495 bus, so that I only have one USB cable going to the "modules"

Currently I am thinking about how to incorporate the RCVR Open / Closed into my fuel panel. I will need to have the backplate recut anyway as I messed up the SIG AMPL position.

Just checked the manual, SIG AMPL and Line Check aren'T simulated, but programing the button / switch with DCS-Bios at least lets them "move" in DCS.

At the moment the biggest issue is that I don't know anyone with an cnc router so I can start designing my first front panel (1 piece) and back light PCB.

Buying a CNC Router to find out you don'T want to continue with the hobby is a quite an expense.

Cheers Sven

Looks like you are off to a very good start Alburg :thumbup: Looks great. You are right according to the manual Amplifier and Line Check are not simulated. Just like you I wired them up anyway although I used a Nano as Warhog suggested. It has enough pin also when running RS485. You just need to use a few of the analog pins as digital.

Sound like a very good idea to incorporate the RCVR open/close into the panel. This is what my lever looks like (can't take credit for the panels itself as it came like that),

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2768812&postcount=95

This is from the other side;

If you want I'll see if I can find some measurements for it.

Keep 'em comming Sir :thumbup:

Cheers

Hans

Nicely done Sven. I must say, I really like how you've organized and documented everything. That's something I'm afraid I need to work on. I'm embarrassed to say that I have more than one panel that has pin layouts on a post-it note, and that was only to make sure I knew where to program what into the sketch!

 

If you want I'll see if I can find some measurements for it.

 

Hans, I'll take you up on your offer if you have a quick drawing or layout drawn! That's the only thing I haven't done yet on this panel. ;)

@MacFevre:

You'll like this picture then.

Before crimping the ends and installing them into the DSUB connector I added printable heat shrink tubing.

@Hansolo:

Yes measurements would be very interesting.

IT seems like you have an original panel.

Could you also give me the measurents of the push pull switches, the button part, so I can modify mine.

Connected and tested the panel yesterday everything works as it should.

So basically V1 of my fuel system backplate is finished.

V2 will incorporate the RCVR switch and mounting, will have the SIG AMPL position corrected and will also have the hole for the backlight connector corrected.

So next panel in the making will be a step up.

I am thinking of the VHF radio panel.

Any finished panels I can steal ideas from haha

Thanks and Cheers

Sven

Mine looks like this;

Bear in mind that this doesn't resemble the real one. Unless I am mistaken then the real one is attached directly to the spillway.

What do you mean by measurements? The pull is described here in Warhogs thread; http://i.imgur.com/QA8hhmJl.jpg

Cheers

Hans

Thanks for you help Hans,

would you have the positions of your "mechanical" stops and the lever itself?

What I mean is do you have the diameter and length of the knobs from the FILL DISABLE push pull switches.

Mine are 15mm high and have a 13mm diameter

I'm embarrassed to say that I have more than one panel that has pin layouts on a post-it note, and that was only to make sure I knew where to program what into the sketch!

Don't be embarrassed Wayne because that's how all the PRO's do it... :music_whistling: Not that I'm a PRO by any means but I do like to pretend. :animals_bunny: So this is my desk...

:lol:

IMG_0955 by John Wall, on Flickr

... and BTW Sven, you really need to organize your desktop. Way to messy if you ask me. I mean, just look at mine. :hehe: Neat, tidy, everything in its spot. I offer this photo as an example so the newer builders to our forum start off on the right foot. :music_whistling:

:pilotfly:

Thanks for you help Hans,

 

would you have the positions of your "mechanical" stops and the lever itself?

 

What I mean is do you have the diameter and length of the knobs from the FILL DISABLE push pull switches.

You're welcome. Diameter is 9.5mm and height is 10mm.

Cheers

Hans

... and BTW Sven, you really need to organize your desktop. Way to messy if you ask me. I mean, just look at mine. :hehe: Neat, tidy, everything in its spot. I offer this photo as an example so the newer builders to our forum start off on the right foot. :music_whistling:

John, thank you! You've really made my day! That's the best thing I've read all year! It is nice to know that you're not alone in the world in the way you do things. :smilewink: I always keep my little notes, but I also scan them into Evernote just in case I want to try and look something up and I can't find the note. Their OCR is surprisingly good considering my writing. I would like to ask you a few questions, but don't want to take over the OP.

:megalol:

I would like to ask you a few questions, but don't want to take over the OP.

Send me an email Wayne.

Stupid question, what diameter do the original screws have to mount the front- lightplate with the backplate?

Cheers Sven

Hi guys,

I've been busy, modifying the CAD drawings, making shoppings list, and finishing of my Fuel System Panel V2, the last couple of days.

But now I kind of ran into a minor issue.

I am basically using Lars drawings and modifying them the way I need them.

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=150662

And used dimebugs drawings for the LH console

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=76032

Now I just sketched up an DZUs rail. to see if the panels would fit the console.

It seems like I am missing a two inch piece after the ARM GND SAFETY panel.

Any idea whats missing?

Cheers Sven

Correct measurements both sets of plans are just best guesses.

Correct measurements both sets of plans are just best guesses.

So as I don't have any precise measuremts nor a Cockpit I could take measuremts from, the best way to solve this problem would be to make a two inch blank.

Just checked Lars "DZUS" placement towards MS25212 Rev.C if I understood it correctly. He is off by 0,0005 inch at the top and the bottom of an backplate. But that shouldn't cause too much of an issue.

Cheers Sven

Last I checked Lars back plate were all at max top to bottom height leaving no gap or wiggle room for panels to fit together. Lars did a great job on his work but if you check his over all panel width it is at the max his side to side hole placement for Dzus connectors is off in the spacing form the side of the panel and from each other. This being the case there is more than likely going to be some thing off in the back lite panels that may cause a conflict. IE switches not fitting or possibly running it to supports from the side consoles. There are all so quite a few spelling / labeling errors I am sure you have all ready found those. The inconsistency of the back litght areas around knobs may all so cause you some problems . As far as the gap at the back you could cover it or make a piddle pack storage container for that area if your looking at making a replica cockpit.

Hi Deadman,

to be honest I haven't checked all of Lars front panels, as I am concentrating on the back panels at the moment, but on his Intercom panel I noticed that he forgot the TCN but has two ILS positions.

Yes I did notice that Lars made all of his panels with zero tolerance, when I lined them up my sketch DZUS rail.

I just rechecked the DZUS positions on the back panels.

I think I know now what Lars did, working with two measuremts inch and mm can cause some confusion. :D

For the distance top and bottom he used zero tolerance and didn't use .562 -.015, but used the value given under note b in the MS25212 file (1.125) and divided by two. :smartass:

For the position left and right Lars, this time used the middle tolerance value of .192 -.010, so he used .187.

So if I am not totally confused, as it is 0230am here at the moment, it will be tight but in tolerance.

As I won't be using a real DZUS rail.

I'll align all the panels on my frame and then see how big of a blank I'll need.

Thanks for your help and cheers

Sven

And here comes another question.

When you guys order green LEDs for backlighting or the indicators, what mcd and angle do you choose?

Thanks and cheers

Sven

Thanks to the help of Hansolo

I finished version 2.0 of my fuel panel. It basically is a copy of his.

At the moment the L-Profile is screwed to the backplate, but it'll be riveted later.

Cheers Sven

So it's been a while since I've posted something.

For me the racing season ended so now it's time for the sim again.

Unfortunatly fabtools.de stopped business, so I am looking for a new company that lasers aluminium for a reasonable price.

I am still stuck with having no frontplates and I am thinking about have some made without backlight option to start of with.

I am not pleased with my console as it has a "rip" in the way for my Intercom panel to be installed correctly, so I just ordered the newly designed consoles from lynxdk.

Thanks to Deadman one of my panels actually doesn't have a real piece. The knobs for the Stall Warning Volume Panel.

I also managed to source some cheap MS24659-23D toggle switches in Italy, so I guess these are the only correct switches installed in my rig at the moment.

Hi Sven,

Looking good. To answer your question about the MS24659-23D. You can use it as an ON-OFF with DCS-BIOS (simple);

DcsBios::Switch2Pos alcpHarssas("ALCP_HARSSAS", PIN);

Or as an ON-ON with DCS-BIOS (advanced mode);

const byte alcpHarssasPins[2] = {PIN_0, PIN_1};

DcsBios::SwitchMultiPos alcpHarssas("ALCP_HARSSAS", alcpHarssasPins, 2);

Cheers

Hans

Hi Sven,

 

Looking good. To answer your question about the MS24659-23D. You can use it as an ON-OFF with DCS-BIOS (simple);

DcsBios::Switch2Pos alcpHarssas("ALCP_HARSSAS", PIN);

 

Or as an ON-ON with DCS-BIOS (advanced mode);

const byte alcpHarssasPins[2] = {PIN_0, PIN_1};

DcsBios::SwitchMultiPos alcpHarssas("ALCP_HARSSAS", alcpHarssasPins, 2);

 

 

Cheers

Hans

Thanks for your reply.

So if I understand you correctly, an advantage of using a ON-ON switch with DCS-Bios, is that DCS-Bios actually knows in which position the switch is in without having to cycle it once you started DCS? With the downside of requiring one more pin on your ARduino?

As an example you left fuel CROSS FEED in the ON position and leave DCS World, then restart the game.

Nothing would normally happen because the game resets the switch to CROSS FEED OFF (in game) put on your panel it is actually still in ON.

But I still think you misunderstood my question.

I just wanted to know if there is a mechanical difference between the MS24523-23 (ON-ON) and MS24523-22 (ON-OFF).

I've had ON-OFF switches where the lever stops would stop at 90° and 135°,

where with an ON-ON the first lever position would be 45° and the second 135°.

Thanks and cheers Sven

From my understanding DCS-BIOS only updates on changes. Thus if your real panel is in ON but DCS starts in OFF nothing happens. You have to cycle it OFF then ON to get it to ON. And it doesn't matter whether uyou use an ONB-ON or an ON-OFF. Functionality is the same. Difference is that with the ON-ON DCS-BIOS doesn't have to 'calculate' the OFF position. It knows it from the feed back.

Sorry for the misunderstanding

Cheers

Hans