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DCS A-10C and Thrustmaster Hotas Wharthog Controls


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I currently have the Thrustmaster Hotas Wharthog on order and should receive it by Wednesday.

 

I was wanting to know if someone uses this controller with DCS A-10C who perhaps can give screenshots or information on the best realistic settings and configuration for this game.

 

More specifically what dead zones if any, curve settings, and button assignments to get the best realistic settings.

 

Also, is the settings and configuration done within DCS game options menu or done on the Thrustmaster software?

 

I am doing as much research as possible by the time the controller arrives.

 

Any information will be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Perry Fincher

Perry Fincher

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i am not in front of my computer to give you a screen shot, but from what i remember, i place an ever so slightly small dead zone and just as equally so slightly curve.

all done with in game settings. you do not want to run the "target" software as it wipes out the 'built in' profile. you will need to program the joystick hat switch within the game to make it your trimmer and not the pan/view. (if you have trackir).

this is basically plug n play.

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Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS

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I have a very slight curve to grant me better precision when I'm doing things like landing/refuelling. There's also a tiny dead zone just to account for when I'm shuffling around with the stick is centred.

 

Configuration will be automatic, so there is no need to run the Target app, but it won't simply wipe everything as soon as you launch it as July865 seems to be suggesting.

 

As he says, by default the Trim hat will be set to camera POV, so if you use a TIR you will want to change that back to the trimmers.

 

I have assigned the Mic switch UP to be my Teamspeak/Ventrilo Push to Talk button for multiplayer. The push in feature of the Slew nipple on the back of the Throttle I have set for my Center Track IR button. (Both of these commands are set up directly in their respective applications.)

 

A lot of people (Including me) also like to set up the non assigned Pinky paddle on the stick to act as a shift switch, allowing you to double up any other command on the HOTAS. I have done this so I can use the Landing Gear Horn Silence button as the Gear Up/Down Toggle when the paddle is also held down. The CMS thumb hat on the Stick, when pushed vertically in, with the paddle pulled, will turn on my NV Goggles, and pushing the CMS has Forward/Aft when holding the paddle will increase or decrease the gain. Of course you can assign whatever you deem useful!

 

Finally I set the unassigned throttle slider (Which in the real HOTAS is the throttle friction) to my zoom view. Very useful when you're on a gun run/ID'ing targets/refuelling!

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More specifically what dead zones if any, curve settings, and button assignments to get the best realistic settings.

 

Also, is the settings and configuration done within DCS game options menu or done on the Thrustmaster software?

 

 

Hi Perry,

Welcome to the forum and Happy Holidays.

 

The Warthog is basically plug and play. I can make some screenshots later today but there is not much to look at.

 

The basic functions are mapped to the stick and throttle automatically.

 

As mentioned above. The trim hat is mapped to views, with the trim function accessed by using the trim hat and the CTRL key. If you have TIR then you can get rid of the views and remap the Trim functions. The Mic Sw Up fucntion is not actual used in RL but is mapped in game.

 

Curves and deadzones are not 'realistic' they are our way of compensating for the differences between our joysticks and the actual components in the aircraft. A dead zone of 5 - 10 is a good starting point and a curve setting of 30-35. That would be for pitch, roll and rudder. Do not set a curve on the throttle, or brakes. These are very individual so you may find that you prefer different settings. You also will probably change them once you have flown a bit.

 

As I said, I can put up some pics later today. PM me if I forget.

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No dead zone or curves at all for the WH, it really doesn't need them. As others have said the mapping is plug and play apart from adjusting the trim hat it you use track ir and mapping the SAS emergency disconnect to the paddle switch.

 

Spoiler

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All good advice here so far - I will only add that if you do not have rudder pedals you can map the friction slider on the throttle to work as the rudder and map the paddle switch on the stick to activate the wheel breaks.

 

I use the friction slider for the rudder, and find it most natural to set the invert check box so pulling the slider turns left and pushing it forward turns right.

 

I have not needed to set dead zones for any axes, and us curvature settings of 25~30 for pitch, roll and rudder axes.

 

Traveling for the holiday at the moment so unable to provide screen shots, but will be happy to if nobody else has (and assuming you still need them) by the time I get back.

Zenra

Intel i7 930 2.8GHz; ATI HD5850 1GB; 1TB Serial ATA-II; 12GB DDR3-1333; 24 x DL DVD+/-RW Drive; 800W PSU; Win7-64; TM Warthog HOTAS

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First, I want to thank everyone for the welcome to DCS Forum.

 

Most importantly, I wish everyone and their families a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

 

I really appreciate everyone taking the time to reply.

 

Everyone has posted great information and will indeed be a tremendous help for when I receive my Hotas Warthog controls.

 

I feel that everyone has answered my questions up to this point, so screenshots are not necessary; however, do appreciate members willingness to post them.

 

I am glad DCS developed and produced the A-10 simulation.

I was looking for a very good combat simulation since the days of Jane's USAF which I can't play any longer do to a new Windows 7 system.

 

I am looking forward to what DCS will release in the future.

 

Found a new home for my combat simulation interests.

 

Thank you to everyone who replied to me!!!

 

Can't wait for my unit to arrive and get to learning the A-10.

 

Growing up, the A-10 was my favorite combat aircraft.

 

"Allie's best friend, Enemy's worst nightmare"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Merry Christmas, everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Perry Fincher

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I'll just take a moment to reinforce what others have said in a few matters:

 

1 - It is pretty much plug and play. The simulator will detect the hardware and assign a controller profile that directly matches the real bird with only one exception: the trim hat is by default mapped to view controls. If you want to control trimwith that (for example if you have a TrackIR unit) you will hve to take care of that. Aside from that, everything is 100% realistic right out of the box.

 

2 - I do not use any dead ones or curvture on it. Not necessary. It is extremely good kit with better performance in it's detectors than my performance as a pilot, so there's nothing I could improve through software anyhow. (The only curvature I use is on my pedals, which is a Saitek kit.)

 

3 - If you have previously used other kit, like Saitek's X52, you will have to count on spending several days getting used to the TM stick. The resistance to movement is a lot greater than you might be used to, and this might feel weird in the beginning. It certainly did to me, coming from a Saitek. But given those few days of getting used to the situation you'll end u finding it far superior. Speaking from experienc, it's no worse than the "change" you'd exerience when converting from one aircraft to another IRL.

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I feel that everyone has answered my questions up to this point, so screenshots are not necessary; however, do appreciate members willingness to post them.

 

I have modified my stick and throttle curvatures. Mainly because of AAR (refuel).

However, I did keep the deadzones as zero.

 

Here you are my throttle curvature settings:

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1330608&postcount=83

 

With the stick, my curvature is about 10.

 

Anyway, these are my settings. Just try different combinations to find out what are the best settings for you.

 

EDIT: Probably your Warthog (throttle) already comes with the latest firmware, but it's better to check the fw version anyway. And update immediately if older version.

http://www.google.fi/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=thrustmaster%20warthog%20firmware&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCcQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fts.thrustmaster.com%2Fdownload%2Faccessories%2Fpc%2Fhotas%2Fmanual%2FHOTAS_Warthog%2FFirmware_update%2FWarthog_Firmware_procedure_Online_v1_ENG.pdf&ei=XBP4TujIGujZ4QS609CNCA&usg=AFQjCNFe5Xt68hPgTc9HzMa5MkYoH06sYQ&cad=rja

 

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=3&pid=311&cid=1


Edited by FreeFall
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Thanks for the information, FreeFall.

 

Thanks to everyone for helping me understand these things.

 

I do have one other question while awaiting Warthog controls.

 

I downloaded the Alaska A-10 package.

 

I placed the dds files in the temp texture like it stated, but it doesn't show up when I go to change liveries in mission editor then payload screen.

 

What did I do wrong?

 

Thanks again everyone!!!

Perry Fincher

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Thrustmaster Hotas Warthog rec'd!!!

 

It is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Can't wait to put it to use to start learning the DCS A-10.

 

I tried to map the paddle (button 4) to the wheel brakes.

Tried this in axis commands, game, and simulation menus, no dice

I can't even get the wheel brakes to map to a button on my CH Yoke.

 

Also, am I suppose to map the command button to "Wheel Brakes" or "Wheel Brakes On/Off (which sounds to me, is the parking brake per say)".

 

Has anyone had this problem before or am I doing something wrong?

 

I am making sure I have everything covered before starting to learn DCS A-10.

 

Man, the Warthog controls really are a different feel than you generic joysticks, but cool!!!!!


Edited by perryfincher

Perry Fincher

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I have my paddle switch mapped to Wheel Break, I believe.

 

When assigning the switch make sure you click the box in the Joystick column of the Wheel Break row. When the assign dialog box comes up simply press the paddle on your stick and it will be assigned.

Zenra

Intel i7 930 2.8GHz; ATI HD5850 1GB; 1TB Serial ATA-II; 12GB DDR3-1333; 24 x DL DVD+/-RW Drive; 800W PSU; Win7-64; TM Warthog HOTAS

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I have my paddle switch mapped to Wheel Break, I believe.

 

When assigning the switch make sure you click the box in the Joystick column of the Wheel Break row. When the assign dialog box comes up simply press the paddle on your stick and it will be assigned.

 

Tried it and nothing

 

Thanks


Edited by perryfincher

Perry Fincher

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Wheel brake on/off iirc. Why not assign it as a modifier and assign another button for wheel brake. This will give you more options for key assignments. Keep in mind, you won't see the paddle when you add it in modifiers, just press it and then it will show up in the drop down menu (iirc). I you are worried that it's not working, just check in Windows/Options/Game controllers.

 

Edit: Did you check that no other controller buttons are assigned to wheel brakes? Just to state the obvious, did you make sure you are in the WH Joystick (not the throttle) vertical column.


Edited by hassata

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Wheel brake on/off iirc. Why not assign it as a modifier and assign another button for wheel brake. This will give you more options for key assignments. Keep in mind, you won't see the paddle when you add it in modifiers, just press it and then it will show up in the drop down menu (iirc). I you are worried that it's not working, just check in Windows/Options/Game controllers.

 

Edit: Did you check that no other controller buttons are assigned to wheel brakes? Just to state the obvious, did you make sure you are in the WH Joystick (not the throttle) vertical column.

 

 

Yes!!!

Got it working!!!

 

 

Now I am going to have to get some rudder pedals so I can control the nose steering on the ground.

Til then, I will try just using ailerons wiht nose wheel steering off.

 

Thanks a million


Edited by perryfincher

Perry Fincher

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Yes!!!

Got it working!!!

 

 

 

Excellent!

 

Now I am going to have to get some rudder pedals so I can control the nose steering on the ground.

Til then, I will try just using ailerons wiht nose wheel steering off.

 

Won't work too well. Add rudders/wheel axis to the friction wheel on the right of the throttle for now (just use a decent deadzone). Don't forget to enable nose wheel steering to turn on the ground.

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Finally I set the unassigned throttle slider (Which in the real HOTAS is the throttle friction) to my zoom view. Very useful when you're on a gun run/ID'ing targets/refuelling!

Can someone please tell me what the slider is called in the button list in-game ?

I have tryed to locate it but i cant find it.

 

Thanks for answers! :)


Edited by mnrty
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Where do you assign it to zoom view then ? Is it in options - control - views, or options - control - axis assign ? I cant seem to figure it out :/

 

The zoom view is an axis

 

Go to "Options" then "Controls" tab

Ensure the two white drop down boxes "Aircraft" and "Category" are set to "A-10C Sim" and "Axis Commands" respectively.

 

Zoom View should be the last one on that page.

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  • 3 months later...

Great thread!

 

I received my HOTAS yesterday, and to make sure I understand, and at the risk of seeming dense, can I / should I skip downloading the software from Thrustmaster? Everything can be done in game?

 

Thanks.

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