Jump to content

RomeoKilo's Pit


romeokilo

Recommended Posts

The seat is coming along.

 

I decided my modification to the headrest made it way to flimsy, as I realised it will be human nature to grab at it when climbing in.

 

I cut the whole thing off and am redesigning it to incorporate the chute container as well as working belt rollers.

 

I have now become tired of wood, paint and power tools so have taken a break from the seat for now...

 

1e02ff393cf8ca9a12c1a7968409105d.jpg

 

 

Fired up the soldering iron and got to work on panels.

 

CMSP is 95% finished and I love it.

It now fully operational in the sim.

 

I've learnt a few things-

 

1) DCS BIOS is f'n brilliant.

2) DCS BIOS is easier than it looks.

3) DCS BIOS is f'n brilliant.

 

Its running via an Arduino Uno for the display, switches and rotary however I ran out of pins, so the seven tactile buttons are running off the GGG card in the ELEC PWR panel.

 

 

Only thing left to do on this panel is glue on the switch top replicas, repair the genuine knob with some paint and try to remember where I put the green transparent plastic cover for the OLED.

 

1386f79e653570d90a5998dbad65d395.jpg

 

516b1206747b5f1d64675c8bcfc2327c.jpg

 

4f56cef80ec191d84a2e2c56af0f31bf.jpg

 

62bc962f0f1e25737cf410801c3c59db.jpg

 

Also-

 

The CDU and UFC are almost at the same stage but unfortunately I'm just waiting on some more tactile buttons on the slow boat from china before I can get them back together.

 

The TACAN and ILS panels are finished and working on breadboard, however after playing with and loving the I2C OLED on the CMSP I'm considering redesigning them completely, ditching the 1602 LCDs and using a smaller OLED as well.

 

The Radio Stack is also now working on breadboard, just trying to work out how I'm going to do the dual digit preset channel displays, preferably without having to do up my own PCBs.

 

Amazing :) Can you show backlight ? it's inside 2 acril panel ? can you show this sandwich please :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 353
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks lads.

 

CMSP Finished!

 

Amazing the difference a simple piece of green plastic can make when put over a white OLED.

 

f76ab2dbdfabd530e993b38f5b6a61b4.jpg

 

Also hot glued on Lynx's replica switch tops and changed the Allen key bolt for a black painted Phillips head screw as on the real one. I'll paint the knob later on when I do them all.

 

Big thanks to Duckling for sending me the green cellophane/plastic as a freeby.

 

 

I've got the CMSC on the bench now and working in the sim.

 

Unfortunately my damaged OLED has gotten worse so I've bought a new one to replace it before I unveil it on here.

 

Safe to say I'm happy with it...

 

For anyone chasing them the seller (who is also the manufacturer) has put more up on eBay. The 20x2's are usually hard to find. Item number 131059330863.

 

 

 

 

Next on the workbench- the Radio Stack. It's a mess of solder and wire that one...

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beautiful work as always RomeoKilo. Looks awesome with the real jettison switch, knob and flat heads inserts on.

 

Its running via an Arduino Uno for the display, switches and rotary however I ran out of pins, so the seven tactile buttons are running off the GGG card in the ELEC PWR panel.

I have been looking at that as well. I think I'll just drop in a Mega on that panel.

 

Keep up the good work Sir

 

Cheers

Hans

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to use a mega for the CMSP, but I don't want the pit to be completely run by DCS BIOS.

 

I decided I'd rather have at least some of the switches throughout the pit as USB HID devices, so when I fly other aircraft or sims (rare but it does happen) I don't have to re program any Arduinos and will still have enough physical switches to play with.

 

The CDU is going to be a HID device run by a leo bodnar board for this reason.

 

I'm still deciding about the UFC. I'll probably use a mega for that so I can use it to run the front panel indicators, fire handles etc.


Edited by romeokilo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to use a mega for the CMSP, but I don't want the pit to be completely run by DCS BIOS.

 

I decided I'd rather have at least some of the switches throughout the pit as USB HID devices, so when I fly other aircraft or sims (rare but it does happen) I don't have to re program any Arduinos and will still have enough physical switches to play with.

 

The CDU is going to be a HID device run by a leo bodnar board for this reason.

 

I'm still deciding about the UFC. I'll probably use a mega for that so I can use it to run the front panel indicators, fire handles etc.

 

I think that’s a very smart decision Ray. I decided to tie the OSB buttons on each mfcd to a hid device for the very same reason... possible future use on additional airframes. As you probably know, there are also a number of A10 panels that have no function whatsoever in DCS. Those panels could be prime candidates for hid devices as well.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CDU.

 

Changed the design so it's a standalone unit with the AAP incorporated into it. Easier to wire this way as they are sharing leo bodnar cards.

 

And obviously tweaked from the original layout to suit my needs and VGA screen.

 

cd82baf604471aac5d7d90fbe66cb306.jpg

 

16mm long tactile switches on prototyping pcb. Averted the need for a custom pcb. They all share a common ground so each switch will have one wire from it direct to a bodnar board (there is two). Soldering that should be fun...

 

4eb6318f86a7b938d1b970deb99e53fc.jpg

 

4.5mm acrylic spacer that the led strip for backlight gets stuck too.

 

205e38b24d23b4fbbd1ec751fb7fa703.jpg

2394a3abe302b890c81dbbee92565471.jpg6fa26b8657eb987f0eae66e3376ba61e.jpg

 

From the rear.

Small standoffs are what the acrylic backlight panel gets attached too, then the button pcb gets bolted to that.

Large standoffs are for the rear panel that the boards are mounted to.

 

You can see the AAP is backlit not with strip but with individual 3mm leds like all the other panels in the pit. I've already soldered up that circuit, but am adding more LEDs around the knobs. I've got backlightable 3D printed knobs on the way.

 

8fa60e397d76447063ae511b5967e0f3.jpg

 

And backlit. Not as smooth as custom placed leds but its just so much easier to use striplighting. The round buttons are leaking around the edges because they are only partially painted- will fix that.

bb827c3203f65a72e685379348a6a4aa.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Edited by romeokilo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could I ask a question about your displays, the IIC OLED things for your CSMP.

 

Could you use them instead of say 9 x 16 segment displays?

 

Im wanting to build a F/A-18C UFC like BBs but nowhere sells 16 segment displays in that size (the F/A-18 has 9 figures).

 

I was thinking of alternatives and some of these Arduino displays look like they can do pixelated graphics even?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Could I ask a question about your displays, the IIC OLED things for your CSMP.

 

Could you use them instead of say 9 x 16 segment displays?

 

Im wanting to build a F/A-18C UFC like BBs but nowhere sells 16 segment displays in that size (the F/A-18 has 9 figures).

 

I was thinking of alternatives and some of these Arduino displays look like they can do pixelated graphics even?

 

I don't see why not. Depends on coding of course, but in my opinion it could be done.

 

I'll take it on when I get onto my Hornet pit after this one is complete, although I was/am planning an E model with the touch screen UFC. I haven't started researching it yet- the limited time I have I throw at the Warthog.

 

 

 

Today I played around with modding a few of my real parts.

 

I managed to backlight the IFF panel without cutting into it or even removing the backplate.

 

I just unscrewed and smashed the original incandescent globes and managed to solder two 3mm leds and a resistor into each one. The top of the globe covers no longer screw on but nothing a bit of double sided tape didn't fix. I'm very happy with the results.

 

This panel will wait until the very end to be fully functional, I have no idea how to get the real code dials to work with an arduino...

 

For now the on-off switch is wired only, and I'll also get leds in the two indicators.

 

e0c6107b26e4b8f4c89254548d8119d9.jpg

 

101f5a05dd8af3fe1bffa1f23d2093ad.jpg

 

Also smashed the globe in the utility light and modified a car T10 size led to fit in its base. Only took about two minutes, and its the right size so the twist for red still works also.

 

e4ec90730c158d2858b7ce34901de973.jpg

 

 

 

b349c1bd066af63bf48f9141e0f7e033.jpg


Edited by romeokilo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Used the same principle as the ejection seat arming lever for the landing gear lever.

 

All aluminium and it feels brilliant. Nice solid clunk into each position.

 

Ignore the scrapes on the aluminium sides, they were done during prototyping. The handle is set off it with washers so it's nice and smooth.

 

I will do a bent handle to go on the final product.

 

 

 

Will use the same basic design for the fuel door lever and the canopy lock. 5948efc4ce6a262e0864e864d2139908.jpg

 

ab62190a31174f80a4e5df7ede460060.jpg

 

85cd7a0067396548d97b78e2930d85ec.jpg


Edited by romeokilo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

LG panel complete

 

Downlock override is only a temporary placeholder. I'll get another NKK switch for it later on.

 

 

0a921f11e628deb67c5af95c43e5dfc3.jpgeb4b98ae8386c38633658b907412f8a5.jpg831a841efdb9cccf2ffb4101e566a63c.jpg99564b2a8d5b4f39df2a8a4b13c83dda.jpg9d0889491b8844382c329f667a9e9e94.jpg

 

And the AHCP now has Lynxs switch tops on standard switches.

 

I had NKK locking toggles for this but have decided not to use them.

With an MDF main panel there was too much movement in it when pulling them out to toggle. Made it feel cheap and flimsy rather than a simulation of the real thing, so I went back to normal switches.

 

 

 

02534bb29e5487918ca5fbaa1e126ba1.jpg

 

 

And cut, painted and engraved the indicators

 

65196d8be1eafe8913c08f634620b845.jpgc539adaa854930aa577250781e8412b7.jpg


Edited by romeokilo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This and the AHCP are run buy a GGG card. Indicators and the handle light will be run by the arduino nano that will run the flaps guage. Waiting on some mosfets and a stepper driver card from China before I wire them up. 93b643b11100ebd263c8604886832a41.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First time it was all in one place today.

 

Rough set up while I plan the floor to get the stick in the right spot.

 

Nothing bolted down and all panels just resting in place, but about 50% are now complete and functional in the sim.

 

Lots of detail work to go but sitting in it for the first time I'm beginning to get excited!!

 

 

9b627f9ee2b047507f9df510840f0c10.jpgdd67cc5fd75b10c1f1081d6f4fb65f42.jpg17d12b5d8f5e06e80a5972aac0ddb46b.jpge7e5a0b45d03bdf57fd20141945592b4.jpg40b33830444dfdb4c080e652fa0582be.jpg130531838e659d80f7099e6d37890bb8.jpg2e29ea830fe5698240931b48ee8f4aa0.jpg


Edited by romeokilo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking really excellent RK. I'm jealous too. I still have all my woodworking left to do. But that should be as much fun to build as the panels now that my wood shop is finally up and running. :thumbup:

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers lads.

I'm happy with the results so far.

 

Few changes I'm making-

Side consoles are being raised about a 30mm so they are flush with the bottom of the fuel/LG panel.

 

Throttle is being raised up a bit. The real one obviously has longer handles. With the shorter ones it's not exactly ergonomic to sit resting your hand on them. It will be about 10mm above the panels but shouldn't look to bad.

 

Also-

 

I'm having problems getting Helios to work reliably nowadays. Guages are slow and stutter a lot and it crashes frequently.

I've moved to Icarus which seems better, although my Phidgets base caution panel is an issue. Helios is required to run it, and try as I might I can't get Icarus and Helios to run at the same time.

 

I can see making a DCS BIOS based caution panel from scratch in my future. Shame to ditch the Phidgets though- it wasn't cheap...

 

I bought 100 of those individual WS2812B RGB leds to experiment with. Will be good if I can get a strip of those to be individually addressable and function as a caution panel without wiring a matrix.

 

 

Also-

 

I ordered some of Deadmans 3D printed knobs from shapeways. Get on it lads.

 

The frosted detail finish on their 3D printing is brilliant. Not even any sanding required before painting.

 

 

I'll add pictures here when I get home.

 

On a side note I f#$@n lost one of the AAP knobs. I swear it was on my workbench and it just vanished. I have literally torn the whole house apart looking for it- even unbolted my benches and pulled them from the wall in the off chance it fell in a non-existant gap.

 

I bet you it turns up once I buy a new one.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm having problems getting Helios to work reliably nowadays. Guages are slow and stutter a lot and it crashes frequently.

I've moved to Icarus which seems better, although my Phidgets base caution panel is an issue. Helios is required to run it, and try as I might I can't get Icarus and Helios to run at the same time.

 

I can see making a DCS BIOS based caution panel from scratch in my future. Shame to ditch the Phidgets though- it wasn't cheap...

 

I certainly understand your comments Ray. Getting away from Helios was what motivated me to make actual gauges. The stutter I would get was extremely frustrating. With all the effort I was putting into the cockpit, I didn't want to rely on software that was unstable and no longer supported. I even ditched my Phidgets based caution panel and replaced it with a CP that ran on standard LEDs driven with DCS BIOS and an Arduino board.

 

One thing about DCS BIOS is that it’s virtually version proof. That is to say, DCS would really have to make some major changes in its code for DCS BIOS to stop working. And with Ian’s devotion to his code, I doubt we will see him leaving this community high and dry.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Lots of modifications going on. I have raised the entire pit up about 15cm to allow for the seat rails.

 

Also had to change the front to allow the pedals to sit in the right spot.

11eead6975c85ac22b3a26ab06752d39.jpgb71466cf8db8b3bc94f077045d5c915b.jpg3aa36fb9717e619619cc07ae9971be55.jpg

 

 

Seat rails on. Lots of grinding to get it to fit...

d7d7f2a2ffbea34853b461c3fa2463b4.jpg

 

Seat in normal flight position.

 

ae3547f5a643027f59afbca9b7bff56a.jpg

 

You can see the stick is mounted now as well, and I made a quick pvc extension to get its height right. Still centres and feels almost perfect in this spot. It's mounted to the seat, not the floor, so that I can move the seat and still have the stick feel natural. I may drop it slightly lower, but I'll wait until I take a few long sorties when it's up and running to iron that out

 

You can also see I have made a 'tunnel' over the pedals. Makes the front much more sturdy, and I can put the PC on it to get it up off the floor and tidy up the cable mess.

 

Oh and also note I lined the inside of the consoles with some material I found at a local store. I think it looks the part.

 

Here is the seat all the way back for access. The right console swings out, and getting in is easy.

 

b0663c3de53df4dfb2b626cb7ce3d324.jpg

 

And forward but tilted back. This photo is at maximum tilt, but it's actually quite comfortable with a slight tilt.

 

087b01bd61bfae5b20c9ae42decc9100.jpg

 

Still doing more woodwork. I'm not happy with the glare sheild, I'm going to extend it out about an inch more. Hopefully I'll get a coat of paint on it tomorrow to get it looking much more tidy.


Edited by romeokilo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...