Debolestis Shapeways shop

I got a couple of the Warthog Throttle detentes - the dual stage AB is just excellent!

Phost a few photos please.

I am glad that it works.

Pictures!

I got the centre detent and the dual stage AB parts. You can choose the colors to get printed, so I got different ones so I could easily tell them apart.

I didnt realise it at the time, but I really wanted the "centre detent with reverse". That part has the centre detent, and a detent into engine shutoff. The Warthog uses separate switches for engine shutoff, so I think you really do want at least a detent at that end to show you the your at the end of the throttle rage.

Not a big problem, a file will fix it pretty easily.

This is the centre detent fitted. Its blue :) Thottle is fully forward.

Side view, split throttle. The Left Throttle is sitting over the stock engine cutoff detent (black plastic). The blue part raises the throttle slightly to match the existing detent. You can clearly see the centre detent.

The purple part is the dual stage AB. Left Throttle is at full MIL power. You need to push it over the first bump to get AB, then over the second bump to get max AB.

Its almost perfect out of the box for the F-15C. I didnt need to adjust DCS at all.

Both fit so well that I dont need the original cover plate to hold them in place.

Very happy with my purchase.

EDIT:

Did need a slight curve (approx -10) on the throttle axis for the F-15C to get 100% power to line up perfectly.

sry for late reply debolestis. I have revisited my DIY approach. I think I will try that and if it will not work out well I will get back to you. thx for now anyway. I appreciate your technical interest in the small details. :thumbup:

Hey Debolestis!

Would you be so kind to give me a pin layout (dimensions) of the 4 pin PS3 Thumbstick please? I have looked everywhere but cant find any datasheet or breakout schematic and even if it was supposedly built by ALPS there is no 4 pin version in their portfolio. I have already asked Sokol, but he doesnt know where to find this as well. Id appreciate the help!

PIN 1: POLE (not needed)

PIN 2: POLE

PIN 3: VCC

PIN 4: GND

Pins 2-4 are the ones you need.

Here is what I used

There are 2 poles for each axis, but don't use them at the same time because they are offset to each other 180 degrees and negate each other. Use one or another.

No no electrically it's clear, I need the pin distances and dimensions. So where the holes need to be in the PCB and how large they should be.

For pots it is 2mm spacing I think, and switch is 2,54. I dont kniw the rest, I'll put it in scanner and make something for you soon

Thats awesome, thank you! :thumbup:

Here is what I used

 

 

There are 2 poles for each axis, but don't use them at the same time because they are offset to each other 180 degrees and negate each other. Use one or another.

Any chance you could design a mount for this switch that will fit as a replacement for the slew control in the Thrustmaster Hotas Warthog?

That is my next project, give me a week or two.

I combined the amplifier circuit you made with an MCP3202 and uploaded it to OSH Park. Are the values still up to date? I am going to order it tomorrow and I have the 4 pin PS3 sticks on order as well. The plan is using it on an MMJoy modded gameport CH Pro Throttle, as it is lacking the USB versions ministick.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/ZGK66vsm

Somebody already made PCB for Alps thumbstick.

Maybe whole amplifier could be fitted on PCB this size with SMD components.

Maybe whole amplifier could be fitted on PCB this size with SMD components.

Well that was the plan. But without the dimensions of the pins it is hard to make a design. So I ended up going another route.

After I was done I found a lay6 file on the russian IL2 forum which includes a pinout for the thumbstick as well. Sokol has linked it somewhere.

You can download this one, it is Eagle cad format. You can take dimensions easily from file.

Point to consider: An benefit of keep the amplification circuit in sepparared PCB is easy allow replace the mini-stick when this worm out, because un-solder the mini-stick of PCB may damage the amplification circuit if both are in the same PCB, when done by not skilled persons. :)

Without PCB under mini-stick is just matter of un-solder/solder wires on pins.

Example: 3D support for mini-stick 'PS3' (the maker don't specific the model) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2900369

Point to consider: An benefit of keep the amplification circuit in sepparared PCB is easy allow replace the mini-stick when this worm out, because un-solder the mini-stick of PCB may damage the amplification circuit if both are in the same PCB, when done by not skilled persons. :)

 

Without PCB under mini-stick is just matter of un-solder/solder wires on pins.

 

Example: 3D support for mini-stick 'PS3' (the maker don't specific the model) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2900369

I’ll make PCB as optional, I like to work with PCBs, but it is not necessary.

I’ll make a version of holder for PS3 hall sensor version only. Amplifier PCB is necessary, I’ll try to make it as small as possible.

I’ll make a version of holder for PS3 hall sensor version only. Amplifier PCB is necessary,

This amplifier has analog output or I2C (need for Warhog)?

This amplifier has analog output or I2C (need for Warhog)?

It has analog output, but amplifier will make it same as "normal" thumbstick with 3 pins.

Example: 3D support for mini-stick 'PS3' (the maker don't specific the model) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2900369

They were generic replacements from amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OEF8JJQ/

They were generic replacements from amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OEF8JJQ/

Is this one with hall sensors or pots?

I use 4 pin version because it is with halls, it is also a bit bigger then other thumbsticks. My plan is to make a mount and amplifier, that is enough for me because my warthog will work on mmjoy2.

Recently I have access to 3D printer. A friend of mine bough Prusa 3D printer. Now I can print stuff from time to time. It is not like SLS printers from Shapeways but quality is really good if you prepare your models in right way. I was surprised by strength of PLA, It is not crap at all.

This is good because now I can test stuff before I send them to my Shapeways store. One thing that I wanted to print are grip holders, since I have a few of them and they take a lot of space.

I designed two versions.

Here is what transparent PLA models look like. They are 40% density, so not full like Shapeways. Prusa software does that automatically, you just have to choose density percentage. Photos are not the best but that can be seen, printer makes something like bee hive pattern.

Threads were perfect, no problems with them at all.

Here it is with my Warthog grip. It will work with T-50 grip and with any grip that warthog mounting style.

It works with original Warthog nut, Gardena nut and my printed Locking nuts.

Everything can be found HERE.

Is this one with hall sensors or pots?

This model linked in Amazon is with pot (3 pins connections), since their 3D support allow easy remove/fit the mini-stick, will be easy replace when pot worm out.

Is this one with hall sensors or pots?

I use 4 pin version because it is with halls, it is also a bit bigger then other thumbsticks. My plan is to make a mount and amplifier, that is enough for me because my warthog will work on mmjoy2.

The one with the pots. I can make a remix for the one with the halls if you can tell me the measurements (body width (both X and Y), body depth, hall width and depth and the width of the push button, metric please), but I won't be able to do any test fitting.