CybrSlydr Posted October 8, 2019 Author Share Posted October 8, 2019 Ok - the only thing that really stood out to me is there's a brown 5-pin connector that looks like a wire is missing? However, given that the ground wire is also attached to that loop, I'm guessing that pin is being blocked so the ground can tie into the stick. The wire clearly looks cut to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudel_chw Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 That wire is part of the USB Connector, most likely ground ... here is an old photo of mine where it can be seen: For work: iMac mid-2010 of 27" - Core i7 870 - 6 GB DDR3 1333 MHz - ATI HD5670 - SSD 256 GB - HDD 2 TB - macOS High Sierra For Gaming: 34" Monitor - Ryzen 3600X - 32 GB DDR4 2400 - nVidia GTX1070ti - SSD 1.25 TB - HDD 10 TB - Win10 Pro - TM HOTAS Cougar - Oculus Rift CV1 Mobile: iPad Pro 12.9" of 256 GB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CybrSlydr Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 Well, I just went and re-installed the drivers and everything and I'm still not getting throttle actuation. It's stuck on 135 when I do the calibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CybrSlydr Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 Are there any community gurus I could contact that might know what's going on? Do I need a new PCB in the stick? Is it the pots in the throttle (doubtful since I just bought a new one and replaced the original)? What's left that I can do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CybrSlydr Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 Ok. This is weird. I just put the old pot back in the throttle? Throttle axis still doesn't register, BUT, the rotaries are fine now! They work and calibrate perfectly now. wtf is going on with this stick??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted October 9, 2019 Share Posted October 9, 2019 (edited) Well, did the Vipergear guys tell you that there are two Throttle versions (3V and 5V) and that hall sensors work only in the 5V version? Yours looks awfully like the 3V type. Here have a look: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2863739&postcount=130 They should also put bypass caps on their hall sensors. It works without most of the time, but its bad practice. Edited October 9, 2019 by rel4y Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CybrSlydr Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 Well, did the Vipergear guys tell you that there are two Throttle versions (3V and 5V) and that hall sensors work only in the 5V version? Yours looks awfully like the 3V type. Here have a look: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2863739&postcount=130 They should also put bypass caps on their hall sensors. It works without most of the time, but its bad practice. That is an outstanding idea - I hadn't thought of that. The serial on the throttle is in the 4000s, so I figured it was manufactured late enough to not have that issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CobaltUK Posted October 9, 2019 Share Posted October 9, 2019 You will get a very much lower range in the TM calibration SW for the throttle if you have the hall sensor fitted. Setting it up for the best output (but always lower) takes some trial and error. Information about doing that will have come with the vipergear parts. Windows 7/10 64bit, Intel i7-4770K 3.9GHZ, 32 GB Ram, Gforce GTX 1080Ti, 11GB GDDR5 Valve Index. Force IPD 63 (for the F-16) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CybrSlydr Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 Well, did the Vipergear guys tell you that there are two Throttle versions (3V and 5V) and that hall sensors work only in the 5V version? Yours looks awfully like the 3V type. Here have a look: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2863739&postcount=130 They should also put bypass caps on their hall sensors. It works without most of the time, but its bad practice. This is the only pic I currently have of the board in the throttle - it doesn't look like there's a resistor where the 3v resistor is. I should be able to see it near the corner of the black pin connector that goes to the stick, shouldn't I? However, my board doesn't have the plethora of circular marks on it like the one in the picture on the link you provided. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted October 9, 2019 Share Posted October 9, 2019 You need look in backside of throttle PCB, if the resistor is used, is there. Do you have a multimeter, or you can borrow one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CybrSlydr Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 You need look in backside of throttle PCB, if the resistor is used, is there. Do you have a multimeter, or you can borrow one? I do not, no. Hopefully it's this simple and all I need is to short the part. Gonna need to buy some wire and a soldering iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CybrSlydr Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 HOT DAMN!!! Appears that the problem with the sensor was that I have a 3v board instead of a 5v. I soldered a wire to jump the resistor and BAM - now the throttle axis is working! Only problem is the calibration isn't giving me full range of motion with the throttle. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CybrSlydr Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 HELL YEAH MOFOS!!! Uninstalled then reinstalled the drivers for the HOTAS and... I HAVE THROTTLE SLIDER NOW!!!! :D Thank you all for your help - THANK YOU!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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