Debolestis Shapeways shop

ALPS SKQUCAA010 - NAVIGATION SWITCH, 5WAY

http://uk.farnell.com/alps/skqucaa010/switch-5-way-0-05a-12vdc-tht/dp/1435775

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPS-SKQUCAA010-NAVIGATION-SWITCH-5WAY-/181883174055?hash=item2a5914fca7:g:SfsAAOxyj4hTIiiu

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I corrected errors on X-Fighter to Warthog/Cougar tailpiece. HERE

Enter code: SMALLBIZMONDAY at checkout and you'll also get Free Shipping and 25% off. Today only.

I uploaded Cougar gimbal in my store. There are 4 parts, total price is $89,84. This is for white plastics, painted parts cost 1$ more each. That is the cheapest that I could do, I take 2$ per part, all of the rest goes to Shapeways.

Other parts are:

4 x 696ZZ ball bearings.

Screws and nuts, please use stainless steel nuts and screws, only exception are two M6 nuts, they should be made from regular magnetic steel.

- 1 x M6x35 + nut

- 2 x M6x20 + nuts

- 4 x M5x30 + nuts

- 4 x M5x8 + nuts + washers - this is just for decoration

- 4 x M4x25 + nuts

- 2 x M4x35 + nuts

- 4 x M3x8

- 2 x M6 steel nuts

- 2 magnets, D=10mm, d=5mm, h=5mm - R10x05x05ND-N45

- 2 Sensors. I used GVL224 sensors, you can contact him, THIS is his thread. You must tell him that sensors are for +/-20 degrees.

-4 springs like in photo below. Wire thickness is 1,2mm.

-Cougar enclosure. If you don't have it you can make one yourself with this template:

B

Part-1

$22.35

Part-2

$16.27

Part-3

$35.16

Part-4

$18.65

Took advantage of the sale and picked up a set of the Cougar gimbals parts in polished green nylon since I have a few junked ones laying around anyhow and I already wanted to evaluate these parts.

Also picked up a 13deg stem to play with...

Part 1

This will be a longer post. Now I'll explain how to install my Cougar gimbal.

You'll need some tools, this is what I used. Not everything in a box was used only screwdriver and bits for it.

There should be 4 printed parts. In photo I already installed female mini din connector.

First I'll explain how to install ball bearing. They all fit slots very tightly. But with following trick you can do it.

At first place bearing on table and press the printed part on it. Bearing will enter the slot a little bit. You can see that bearing on photo bellow on the right. Then put M6 screw trough it and on the other side put another bearing that will act as stop for m6 nut. Then simply tighten and it will easily go into slot all the way. Untighten and remove left bearing, screw and nut.

Repeat procedure on second part.

Now install m3x20 screws that will hold a sensor.

Tighten bottom nuts, top nuts are standoffs for sensor. Then install 2 ball bearings. Both bearings will not go all the way into slot, they will be 1mm outside of slot. Both are installed from inside.

It would be better to use cap hex screws, with hex wrench it is easier to tighten them.

Then install M4 nuts like on photo and tighten the screws.

Then install 2 M6x20 screws into slots and tighten the nuts. Don't install washers.

Install two M4s here as well:

Then like in picture, I made two mistakes:

Installed:

Now install sensor on this position. This sensor is MFG digital sensor. I visited Milan's factory and he gave me sensor and controller, but I'll write more about it in next few days.

Use M3 screws to tighten the sensor, I used cube magnets, that is not good solution, I am looking for better magnet, I'll let you know when I find it. I'll probably use ring magnets and sensor will be a bit closer.

Then we need to install gimbal into enclosure. I first installed 4 M5x8 screws. They are just for decoration.

Gibal can be installed in two directions, it is up to you.

Don't tighten the gimbal yet. First install second sensor like in this photo:

Part 2

Then goes main shaft, in previous photo you can see it, but in wrong direction. I corrected that and installed m6x35 screw with washer and nyloc nut. Tighten that firmly, there souldn't be any "yaw" in main shaft. If there is some then you haven't tighten it. Use tools from first photo.

Then tighten gimbals to enclosure using 2 M5x30 and 2xM5x35.

Spring are not good, they are very light, but they are all that I had. I ordered a new set. You can see where two springs are scratching against M5 screws and nuts. That is first print. I corrected that and now there are slots for nuts. M5x30 are used in that position. On opposite side M5x35.

And in the end rubber boot. The one that I had was damaged, but I kept one from old Thrustmaster Top Gun 2 joystick. It is on the right, original is on the left. They are of same diameter but slightly different shape. Top Gun 2 ring does not fit on Cougar. I'll polish original ring when I find some time.

It fits!

And here is fully assembled joystick with my new B8 grip.

Everything works as planned. I made only one mistake, but that is corrected. I'll get new springs in few days and we'll see how it feels, but at the moment I am very happy with it, everything moves smoothly, no center bump.

I am so sorry Thadiun Okona for that. I ordered acrylate only once and it was great. Maybe there is difference in European and US printers. What you have is terrible.

 

Here is my DMS. It feels very smooth, some lines are visible, but result look like factory finish.

 

 

 

Without flash

 

Yeah, guess I just had a lemon batch but either way Shapeways was super cool about it and very fast to respond to my issue. They promptly issued me store credit for all my acrylate parts which was my request, but they also offered a straight refund if I wanted.

I kept the store credit because I'm buying some parts again soon and I also felt that was more than adequate compensation as well and I'm pleased with the outcome. I'm still staying away from the acrylate, but will gladly continue buying things from Shapeways.

ps: your pm storage is full debolestis

JoyTester2. :)

Here is joy tester:

I received new springs. This is spring dimension:

I ordered in 3 different wire thicknesses: 1,0, 1,2 and 1,4mm. 1,0 is OK for plastic grips but not for Warthog because it is too heavy. 1,2 is much better, almost the same feeling like in NXT mod. 1,4 I didn't tried yet, I think that thickness is too much.

I installed MFG sensors and controller.

It is very smooth joystick now, no center bump, but it is very light in the center, heavy grip doesn't help here. All in all I am happy with this, If you tried NXT gimbal, this is more or less the same.

JoyTester show good result. :)

"It is very smooth joystick now, no center bump, but it is very light in the center, "

Accord some Uber NXT users this "light center" fell is characteristic of gimbals with opposite springs.

Tip from UberNXT user: "Use brass bushings around the screws where you are anchoring your springs, as well as plenty of grease. Otherwise you will bust the springs and they will also creak."

Spring are quiet for now, but I should probably use grease.

I don't know much about 3D printed plastics, are there any concerns about stress fractures?

I don't know much about 3D printed plastics, are there any concerns about stress fractures?

Plastics that Shapeways use is nylon. It is strong and flexible. It is not brittle as other materials. So far I didn't have negative feedback on nylon durability and I sold probably 50 tailpieces so far. Maybe there will be material fatigue in the future, we'll see. It is not that expensive for small parts like tailpieces.

Debolestis Shapeways shop

Hi, yesterday I installed a 13° cougar tailpiece adapter and the paddle and they fitted perfectly. They are strong and look nice. It is true it is not so smooth/brittle but it is great quality at a great price.

Cheers

Hi, yesterday I installed a 13° cougar tailpiece adapter and the paddle and they fitted perfectly. They are strong and look nice. It is true it is not so smooth/brittle but it is great quality at a great price.

Cheers

 

Great! Thank you for feedback. It is true black paint is not smooth for some reason. All other colors are smooth and polished.

From now through the end of the year, save 20% on all orders in Frosted Detail and Strong & Flexible plastics with the code FAREWELL2016. Enter the code at checkout.

Deb do you mind posting some pictures of the inside all wired up. Just trying to match what you did. Do I need to keep the resistors on the trim hat?

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

If you are talking about X-Fighter grip, this resistors in HAT is no more need.

Just by curiosity - the resistors are there because in DOS days, due gameport limitations Tm HAT are wired in one axis and not in buttons positions, so each resistor position correspond to 0, 25, 50, 75, 100% of axis. The firmware translate this for HAT. :)

Yeah for the Xfighter. I just née a closeup of where to put the wires and where they go on the board.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah for the Xfighter. I just née a closeup of where to put the wires and where they go on the board.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

For HAT or all other switches?

For HAT or all other switches?

All switches.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Just waiting in the Gardena nut buy ready to solder all the switches. Just need a closer pic of where on the switches you wired to and should be G2G on plugging it in to test the buttons.

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Hello do anyone know what is the size of the pot in the antena of a hotas cougar?is it 6mm or 1/4"?

The shaft has 6mm diameter, the housing of the pot has roughly 16mm diameter.