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Stang

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Everything posted by Stang

  1. Not sure if this helps, and certainly don't want to detour LynxDK thread. Below is a engineering drawing as included with my plans for the left console and the Throttle spacing. The small yellow tic lines are .375 apart, to show the standard DZUS rail mounting points in modern US fighters. I did include a 1/32" (.031" inch, or .79mm for your other side of the pond guys :thumbup:) of spacing on the top and bottom of each panel to allow for non standard panels (sim panels) and homemade panels. Let me know if I can help. :thumbup: Just updated the picture address above. Stang out
  2. Hi Tom, PM sent. Please let me know if I can help you with your project. Tejay Stang out
  3. Thanks ddanois, I appreciate the kind words. I am always happy to help with the CAD plans and your project. Tejay Stang out
  4. All of the Cockpit plans allow you to build your simulator any size you like. From Small to full size. See below Stang out
  5. Really AWESOME work!! Stang out
  6. I updated the link in the first post Let me know if it works Here it is - https://imgur.com/user/Stang51/posts
  7. I love that movie! "Pain heals, chicks dig scars, glory lasts forever" The replacements PM Replied too! I'm happy to help with the CAD plans for your project. Just let me know what I can do to help. Stang out
  8. Hi Guys I apologize for the long delay in my response to those interested in my CAD Plans. I was hurt pretty seriously at work, then in a major automobile accident, all of which has required 8 new scars, over 150 stitches, and 7 surgeries, so far. Lots to recover from but I'm happy to be recovering, nonetheless. If you were or are interested in my CAD Plans for Cockpit building, please send me a PM. I have answered all those that have been sent over the last months. I have available the AutoCAD version 2013 .DWG or .DXF CAD Plans for the following aircraft. P-51D Mustang F-16C Viper F/A-18C Hornet See the link below for pictures from the CAD plans and builds. P-51D Mustang CAD Plans HERE F-16C CAD Plans HERE F/A-18C CAD Plans HERE Below are some links that show the actual build pictures. F-16C Build Pics HERE F/A-18C Build Pics HERE Thanks and let me know if you have any questions. If you would like to purchase the plans, shoot me a PM Stang out Here are a few Pics for fun
  9. So is the Reverb considered to have superior imagery over the Pimaxn5k/8k? Stang out
  10. Its tilted back 30 degrees from vertical Stang out
  11. Awesome work Captflyby! Were the visuals in your cockpits from dedicated screens or projectors? Stang out
  12. Here is a drawing "picture" of the front Panel with instruments. Stang out
  13. PM me your email address and I’ll send you one that is correct. Blowing up the images in the NATOPS Manual does not work. They are skewed. Stand out
  14. That quote must have come from a short, skinny guy with lots of padding on his backside. :) All fighter cockpits, especially single seat fighter cockpits are tight. As far as them feeling like a Lexus, I can assure you they don't. Many fighter squadrons that deploy overseas with very long periods in the cockpit, need to be helped out or even lifted out, after landing from a long cross-country /international flight. After sitting on your glorious maximus for an extended period, you tend to cut blood circulation to your legs. This is bad and not comfortable in any way. Also note, most cockpits have rudder pedals that adjust fore and aft with the Ejection Seat fixed to a for/aft position, but they typically move up and down several inches for height adjustment. Anyway, being able to stretch your legs and get your full weight off your backside is tough to do, not impossible, but tough especially when wearing "poopy-suit" (look it up) and full combat gear. The F-16 is considered one of the most comfortable for long trips because the seat is reclined an extra 15 degrees further than a F-15, F-18 or an A-10. This allows some of that weight to be better distributed to your back rather than your bottom but, it also comes with its own set of issues. Granted I am not a Fighter Pilot, so this information comes from friends that are. Ask around to real Fighter Pilots and see how many think the cockpit feels like a Lexus, especially for long trips. I'm doubting you'll not find too many. I think for a VR or a Home Cockpit your design will do just fine. Many guys add an inch or two to width to provide more room. As long as you're comfortable in it...then that's all that really matters. Then again, (IF) you have a SuperSized buddy that wants to fly it, you may need to stretch it a bit. :lol: The image below was made on request for more room in a home cockpit. :thumbup: Let me know if I can help. Stang out
  15. I do What specific information are you looking for? S
  16. It's in the ballpark but not exact. The measurements in mm contain several errors. The image below corrects most of these. The image below is based on your doc. Stang out
  17. Hi Guys Some things that can help when taking dimensions from an actual cockpit, is finding and using "Base Points". I would suggest no more than 3, as after that, it gets very confusing. Typically, a solid first Base Point would be the Center of the Flight Stick - "Floor Mount" in a cockpit with a "Center Flight Stick" Two other good Base Points, need to be Parallel and Coplanar to each other (Both side by side and the same height). Some examples would be the Back Left Hand Corner of the Left side switch panel, and the back Right Hand Corner of the Right side switch panel. This provides the ability to take 3 measurements to locate a panel and determine its angel offset to 0,0,0 (vertical, horizontal and depth). This data can easily be entered in most CAD systems to locate the exact position of the part/panel/switch/gauge in real world 3D work. No, you don't have to do this for every part...just the main items: Main Inst Panel, Side Panels, Angled Side Panels, Center Pedestal, A fixed point on the Ejection Seat, Canopy Sills, Throttle and Stick Location, etc Once you have the varying panel angles, all you need to do is take a pic of the part/panel/switch/gauge with a ruler/tape measure beside it and above or below it, to get the vertical and horizontal "accurate" dimensions of it. It would also be good to measure the large parts: Canopy Sills "length, width, height" at front and rear, and from the Top of the Sill to the Top of the Canopy (if you can open and close it). The width between the Sills at the front and back. From the Top if the Sill to the Floor. Other big items would be the height and width of the main instrument panel, both side panels, both angled side panels, center pedestal and ejection seat. Height from the Floor to the bottom/top of the Main Instr Panel, Side Panels and Top of the Sills With these dimensions and pictures that include the measurements, most CAD / 3D guys would have no problems building an accurate 3D Cockpit with all panels including the parts/panels/switches/gauges. Note - Don't believe me, check out the OpenHornet F/A-18 Project with Jrsteensen's 3D CAD work. I believe Boeing is using this to update the Real Hornet's Blueprints, because (1) They're FANTASTIC!.. and (2) We all know that Boeing can't design a Fighter to save its life. :megalol: If you're real bored, look up the last Fighter that Boeing Designed...that actually went into production; not the abominations (prototypes) that lost to real fighter designs. :joystick: Also, try not to make these FNG Rookie mistakes: :doh: Learn how to take good pictures. Out of focus pictures don't work. Regardless if its a cell phone or stand alone camera; hold the camera "in the exact same plane (angle), both vertically and horizontally to the part you are taking a picture of, focus, hold your breath and gently snap the pic. Nothing beats good photography! :thumbup: . Keep the ruler/tape measure aligned with the part/panel/switch/gauge, both vertically and horizontally. Tip - Blue/Green Painters tape can be used to hold the ruler/tape measure in place while you take a picture. A buddy can be a huge help with this too! :helpsmilie: . Take a picture of the part/panel/switch/gauge that's both "Zoomed in on it" for detail and "Zoomed out" to show the surrounding detail. Yes, that's extra work but trust me, this imagery will really come in handy later on. Remember to stay "in plane" with whatever you're taking a picture of. Pictures with the camera tilted one way and panel another way are garbage. :mad: . Take pictures of the items you think you "WON'T" need. The Floor, Rudder Pedals, Front of the Ejection Seat, Back of the Ejection Seat, Sides of the Ejection Seat, The Top of the Front Instrument Panel, Under the both Sills, Under the Front Instrument Panel, The bottom of the Flight Stick, The Side(s) and Top of the Throttle, Pictures showing all the buttons and text on these, etc. Trust me, these will all get used and be a huge help in creating an "accurate cockpit". :smilewink: . This should go without says but...Wipe off the dang lens of your camera BEFORE taking pictures! Having smudges, fingerprints, dust-bunnies, dirt and goo ruins your work and drives the guys trying to use it, CRAZY. It also doesn't hurt to wipe the lens off several times during your picture taking session. You'll thank me later for this. :music_whistling: . Finally, bring a Tape Measure, Small Ruler (12 inches or 305mm for you fellas across the pond), Even smaller Ruler (6 inches or 152mm), a notepad and pen/pencil, and a piece of string that's 5 feet (1524mm) long, at least. Sometimes, it's easier to use a string to get a length from a Base Point to the actual item being measured, then lay the string on a Tape Measure and get the dimension. This is a good work around when things are in the way; and don't use STRETCHY string!. :smartass: . If you take your time and do it right, it will save you a lot of frustration and from having to go back a 2nd, 3rd or 4th time. I'm sure there are plenty of other great tips for accurate measuring of a cockpit. Post them up if you have them! Good luck with your project. Let me know if I can help. Stang out
  18. Hey LynxDK Good eye! The FUEL Panel is .375 Shorter / Longer depending on the block and the (IF) its got the upgraded Probe Extend switch. Several of the panels can grow or shrink depending on the Aircraft Block status, SLEP program, not to mention everyday upgrades/replace/repairs. With my Panels, I chose to keep the longer lengths, as these would fit both the older and newer Block(s) parts. I also standardized on the switch hole diameter dimensions, light ring dimensions, text and placement dimensions, screw positions, etc. In the real aircraft, the panels come from different vendors who use various standards depending on manufacturing and installation techniques. Its the reason why you can find the same F/A-18C Hornet with different panels and different switches. I have just tried to make it easier on the builder. Keep up the GREAT work you're doing! All your stuff looks FANTASTIC!! Stang out
  19. HI Nikolas, Not trying to answer for LynxDK as I'm sure he has his own methods with his incredible work. Hopefully the images below will give you the DIMS you're looking for. NOTE - The yellow lines represent the .375 inch spacing. My panel dims are created to include a .016 gap between the panels for spacing clearance. Hope this helps. :thumbup: Once the images opens, you can click on it to enlarge. Stang out
  20. Really Incredible work!! :thumbup: Stang out
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