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CorporalCarrot

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Everything posted by CorporalCarrot

  1. Two things to consider when using the "Bit Fan" is that it may affect accuracy, and be a potential source of injury if you are not careful. The idea is pretty sound, but the thing to keep in mind is that the fan will be rotating at whatever speed you set the machine spindle too, which is usually as fast as possible for most people (in excess of 8,000 rpm on basic machines, but higher end hobbyist spindles can reach 20,00rpm or more). As the instructions are to manufacture them yourself, most people would print them (I guess, the .nc file might not work with anything other than the
  2. You're settings seem to be about right to me, but be careful with the travel speed. As you experienced, if you try going too fast then you'll overload the bit and break it, but there is a more subtle problem you may not notice. The 3020 machines are pretty robust, but tend to have plastic mounts for the spindles. The plastic mount isn't very stiff, so if you up the travel speed, then there is a risk that the mount will bend slightly under load (should return to it's original shape, unless you do something seriously heavy handed with it!). If the mount bends, then your cutter will move arou
  3. I have a highend mobo with two full size PCIe slots (designed for nvidia SLI and AMD crossfire) and I use two separate GPU cards (not SLI'd or crossfired). I have an RTX3090 as my main GPU for doing 4k triples (sometimes dropped to 2k for FPS) and then I have my 'old' RTX2080 which outputs the screens in the cockpit (MFDs, CDU etc.) and some other screens on my racing rig too (which is next to my A-10 cockpit and shares the same PC). I use a beefy 4k HDMI matrix to switch the triples between the A-10 Cockpit and my racing cockpit. TBH the RTX2080 is total overkill for the auxilia
  4. mcd (or millicandella's) is how bright the LED (or more accurately, how much light is given off). With regards to the colour, it is specified by wavelength (usually nanometers - nm). The third metric which is important to consider when buying LEDs is the dispersion pattern, or viewing angle. This is sometimes quoted as a single angle (i.e. 120 degrees) but sometimes has graphical plots on on the datasheet. If you buy two LEDs from different manufacturers that have the same brightness (mcd), wavelength (nm) and dispersion pattern, then they should be pretty much interchangeable.
  5. If you are after the plans for the MDF and plywood structure, then you can buy them from Flim, by e-mailing him. I forget the price, but you paypal him the money, he sends you the plans! Flim@VRPits.com For your money, you get both left, right and centre console design files and the ACES II ejection seat plans. If you are talking about The Warthog Project design files, he has put them on his google drive for everyone to use, but these are mostly just his panels; https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1z59O9Jm_eC7cVa87EAuP3n8En37JtDxY
  6. You'll have to check each control device individually. I think most will use MCU Protocol (Mackie Control Universal - NOT Marvel Cinematic Universe XD), which won't work with DCS AFAIK, without some software in between which you might find on the t'internet, but it's probably the wrong way to go about it! Best idea is to either get something that presents itself as a Joystick to the PC, or build one yourself!
  7. You beat me to it @DeadMeat XD If you've not used this format before, outbaxx, you put in your code in the /*your code here*/ section, where you can output the right colour to your display using the library commands relevant to your display. The variable 'newValue' is how DCS reports the state back to you. See the documentation in DCS-BIOS to understand what is returned for each state (or do some experimentation with DCS and output the 'newValue' variable to either your screen or the serial monitor.
  8. Unlikely you will find a single device with just a slider on it. You could buy another joystick or perhaps an audio/video control device, but these are probably cost prohibitive. You could make one yourself easily with the following parts; Arduino Pro Micro - £11.90 Linear Potentiometer This One or This One - £10.99 or £12.99 Some Wires to connect them - £6.99 You'll need a soldering iron and some solder (which you may already have). You'll also need a housing / case to put it in and a knob for the slider (alternatively, you could buy one too
  9. The chinese 40W CO2 laser I bought, while needing effort to setup it up and re-align the mirrors (the laser wasn't even reaching the last mirror on delivery), cuts 3mm thick black, white (opal) and clear (100% transparent) acrylic in one pass at a speed of between 10 and 16 mm/s. As Agrasyuk mentioned, you just need to make sure the laser is focused on the surface properly. This means you need to have the surface of the material about 5cm from the moving head (your mileage might vary, depending on the model you buy etc.). I've ordered some bits from amazon to help overcome this;
  10. Cutting white acrylic with a 450nm laser is always going to be difficult, as it is smack bang in the middle of the blue light range. The reason that CO2 lasers cut white translucent acrylic and even clear acrylic is more to do with the fact that the light is around 10,500nm, which is beyond red and into the infrared range, and isn't visible to the naked eye (which is why you need to be even more careful with then). For a laser to cut any material, it needs to get enough energy into the material to sinter it completely (i.e. vaporisation). White acrylic tends to reflect blue laser light and p
  11. I work in the aviation industry as a Systems engineer, and have specialised in Civil Aviation Landing Gear for the last 15 years, but have done military aircraft too. Most of the designs in 80's and 90's used 'black box' controllers for the different systems, and the landing gear extension and retraction system (LGERS) control units typically received signals from multiple proximity sensors to determine WoW, locked down, locked up etc. The LGERS control unit would do all the logic, decide the position of the landing gear and control the hydraulic valves based on the position of the landing g
  12. I'm also planning to use the downlock override button as part of the logic circuit. Whilst the downlock override button will be connected to a pin on the arduino, to send the signal to the game via DCS BIOS, I'll also use signal to override the WoW logic and remove the baulk pin. As the Arduino works by pulling the digital pin upto 5V and grounding it via the button, this logic is inverted if I take the 5V digital pin to the logic circuit (So 1 is 0V and 0 is 5V, if that makes sense). This is the truth table; The above table has 1 on the downlock overide being ACTIVE (i.e.
  13. I was looking at doing something with the code, but I'm using a MEGA on that panel with plenty of spare pins, so I'll just use the LED outputs and a 74HC00 quad NAND gate to control the logic. I'm planning on using a solenoid to baulk the landing gear handle, if I can find one that reasonably efficient (and not get hot). I can just use a transistor and a FET to switch the solenoid (if the one I source doesn't have a logic level input). Thanks Crash test pilot.
  14. Are you sure this is for the A-10C? This is all that is listed under External Aircraft Model for me; Control Reference: A-10C: External Aircraft Model (8/8 displayed) Formation LightsA-10C/EXT_FORMATION_LIGHTS Commands: IntegerBufferServoOutput Integer Output: Formation Lights void onExtFormationLightsChange(unsigned int newValue) { /* your code here */ } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer extFormationLightsBuffer(0x12ce, 0xffff, 0, onExtFormationLightsChange); no data yet
  15. I don't see WoW in the external aircraft model for the A-10C? All I see are a bunch of lights and the speedbrake positions...
  16. Hi Guys, I'm going to be making a start on my landing gear and flap control panel soon and I'm thinking about my landing gear selector level design and the A-10C features a baulk to prevent moving the gear from down to up with weight-on-wheels, unless the Downlock Solenoid Override Button has been pressed. Looking at the DCS Bios documentation, is the downlock baulk or Weight-on-wheels signal accessible? I can't find anything and would like to make my panel as faithful as possible, and this doesn't seem to have been asked previously on this panel? Any ideas?
  17. The biggest question you need to ask yourself first, is whether to go SLA or FDM printing. SLA (or Stereolithography) produces parts by curing liquid resin a whole layer at a time. FDM (or Fused Deposition Modelling) is where plastic is extruded from a hot nozzle and added on layer by layer. SLA pro's: Highly accurate and detailed parts (~0.05mm on an average machine), print speed is faster (especially on newer machines), barely visible print lines. SLA con's: Can be messy, liquid resin is an irritant and need to wear nitrile gloves and is smelly; need an ultrasonic cleaner
  18. Except the link I posted to the ones I used were Linear..... Just in case it wasn't clear, the link to the ones I bought is: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JM1G15W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  19. Part 2 of the machines, tools and methods video is live on Youtube!
  20. I've not engineered my own solution to this problem yet, as I have not got to the panels in my build which require a sensor on the switch cover. I've seen Romeo Kilo's solution on his YouTube channel get over this by using a 3-postion toggle switch, using the cover to spring the toggle into the 3rd position when closed. Some people have used tactile switches to detect the postion of the switch cover. Personally, I'm more likely to go with a hall effect sensor. This specific model detects the presence of a magnetic field, and works effectively as an on-off switch. You can get re
  21. I've driven both X27.168 and VID28-05 steppers directly from Nano's and Mega's. I use the Accelstepper.h library, as it is one of the most comprehensive library's, but you have to be careful not to overload the processor. The library is quite heavy on the processor to calculate the steps using an acceleration curve, so If you drive more than one stepper motor from the same Arduino at the same time, the processor can get overloaded. I have found driving 2 steppers from a single nano works reasonably well, but anymore and they won't accelerate properly. I have been toying with usi
  22. There are loads available on Amazon in the UK; https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=concentric+potentiometer&crid=CYL14GISAEIP&sprefix=concentric+po%2Caps%2C151&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-a-p_1_13 I have bought these ones before, and I am happy with them. 10k concentric dual linear pot, works well as a voltage divider for Arduino use. I've checked a couple of them and there is a 1-2% difference between the two pots, which is unlikely to cause you any serious issues, depending on your application. If it's volume or lighting control, you won't notice the difference at all.
  23. One of the cool things about Fusion 360 is that you can import JPGs and other picture files as a 'canvas'. If you import a picture of your part into Fusion360 as a canvas, it'll appear in the list on the left. You can then right click on the canvas in the list, and choose 'calibrate'. You'll then need to pick two points on the picture, which you know the dimension of, then enter said dimension, and Fusion scales the picture correctly. You can then create a sketch over it and just trace out the details required, and then use the sketch to create your 3D model. I hope this makes
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