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CorporalCarrot

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About CorporalCarrot

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  • Birthday 04/02/1978

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  1. You're settings seem to be about right to me, but be careful with the travel speed. As you experienced, if you try going too fast then you'll overload the bit and break it, but there is a more subtle problem you may not notice. The 3020 machines are pretty robust, but tend to have plastic mounts for the spindles. The plastic mount isn't very stiff, so if you up the travel speed, then there is a risk that the mount will bend slightly under load (should return to it's original shape, unless you do something seriously heavy handed with it!). If the mount bends, then your cutter will move arou
  2. I have a highend mobo with two full size PCIe slots (designed for nvidia SLI and AMD crossfire) and I use two separate GPU cards (not SLI'd or crossfired). I have an RTX3090 as my main GPU for doing 4k triples (sometimes dropped to 2k for FPS) and then I have my 'old' RTX2080 which outputs the screens in the cockpit (MFDs, CDU etc.) and some other screens on my racing rig too (which is next to my A-10 cockpit and shares the same PC). I use a beefy 4k HDMI matrix to switch the triples between the A-10 Cockpit and my racing cockpit. TBH the RTX2080 is total overkill for the auxilia
  3. mcd (or millicandella's) is how bright the LED (or more accurately, how much light is given off). With regards to the colour, it is specified by wavelength (usually nanometers - nm). The third metric which is important to consider when buying LEDs is the dispersion pattern, or viewing angle. This is sometimes quoted as a single angle (i.e. 120 degrees) but sometimes has graphical plots on on the datasheet. If you buy two LEDs from different manufacturers that have the same brightness (mcd), wavelength (nm) and dispersion pattern, then they should be pretty much interchangeable.
  4. If you are after the plans for the MDF and plywood structure, then you can buy them from Flim, by e-mailing him. I forget the price, but you paypal him the money, he sends you the plans! Flim@VRPits.com For your money, you get both left, right and centre console design files and the ACES II ejection seat plans. If you are talking about The Warthog Project design files, he has put them on his google drive for everyone to use, but these are mostly just his panels; https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1z59O9Jm_eC7cVa87EAuP3n8En37JtDxY
  5. You'll have to check each control device individually. I think most will use MCU Protocol (Mackie Control Universal - NOT Marvel Cinematic Universe XD), which won't work with DCS AFAIK, without some software in between which you might find on the t'internet, but it's probably the wrong way to go about it! Best idea is to either get something that presents itself as a Joystick to the PC, or build one yourself!
  6. You beat me to it @DeadMeat XD If you've not used this format before, outbaxx, you put in your code in the /*your code here*/ section, where you can output the right colour to your display using the library commands relevant to your display. The variable 'newValue' is how DCS reports the state back to you. See the documentation in DCS-BIOS to understand what is returned for each state (or do some experimentation with DCS and output the 'newValue' variable to either your screen or the serial monitor.
  7. Unlikely you will find a single device with just a slider on it. You could buy another joystick or perhaps an audio/video control device, but these are probably cost prohibitive. You could make one yourself easily with the following parts; Arduino Pro Micro - £11.90 Linear Potentiometer This One or This One - £10.99 or £12.99 Some Wires to connect them - £6.99 You'll need a soldering iron and some solder (which you may already have). You'll also need a housing / case to put it in and a knob for the slider (alternatively, you could buy one too
  8. The chinese 40W CO2 laser I bought, while needing effort to setup it up and re-align the mirrors (the laser wasn't even reaching the last mirror on delivery), cuts 3mm thick black, white (opal) and clear (100% transparent) acrylic in one pass at a speed of between 10 and 16 mm/s. As Agrasyuk mentioned, you just need to make sure the laser is focused on the surface properly. This means you need to have the surface of the material about 5cm from the moving head (your mileage might vary, depending on the model you buy etc.). I've ordered some bits from amazon to help overcome this;
  9. Cutting white acrylic with a 450nm laser is always going to be difficult, as it is smack bang in the middle of the blue light range. The reason that CO2 lasers cut white translucent acrylic and even clear acrylic is more to do with the fact that the light is around 10,500nm, which is beyond red and into the infrared range, and isn't visible to the naked eye (which is why you need to be even more careful with then). For a laser to cut any material, it needs to get enough energy into the material to sinter it completely (i.e. vaporisation). White acrylic tends to reflect blue laser light and p
  10. I work in the aviation industry as a Systems engineer, and have specialised in Civil Aviation Landing Gear for the last 15 years, but have done military aircraft too. Most of the designs in 80's and 90's used 'black box' controllers for the different systems, and the landing gear extension and retraction system (LGERS) control units typically received signals from multiple proximity sensors to determine WoW, locked down, locked up etc. The LGERS control unit would do all the logic, decide the position of the landing gear and control the hydraulic valves based on the position of the landing g
  11. I'm also planning to use the downlock override button as part of the logic circuit. Whilst the downlock override button will be connected to a pin on the arduino, to send the signal to the game via DCS BIOS, I'll also use signal to override the WoW logic and remove the baulk pin. As the Arduino works by pulling the digital pin upto 5V and grounding it via the button, this logic is inverted if I take the 5V digital pin to the logic circuit (So 1 is 0V and 0 is 5V, if that makes sense). This is the truth table; The above table has 1 on the downlock overide being ACTIVE (i.e.
  12. I was looking at doing something with the code, but I'm using a MEGA on that panel with plenty of spare pins, so I'll just use the LED outputs and a 74HC00 quad NAND gate to control the logic. I'm planning on using a solenoid to baulk the landing gear handle, if I can find one that reasonably efficient (and not get hot). I can just use a transistor and a FET to switch the solenoid (if the one I source doesn't have a logic level input). Thanks Crash test pilot.
  13. Are you sure this is for the A-10C? This is all that is listed under External Aircraft Model for me; Control Reference: A-10C: External Aircraft Model (8/8 displayed) Formation LightsA-10C/EXT_FORMATION_LIGHTS Commands: IntegerBufferServoOutput Integer Output: Formation Lights void onExtFormationLightsChange(unsigned int newValue) { /* your code here */ } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer extFormationLightsBuffer(0x12ce, 0xffff, 0, onExtFormationLightsChange); no data yet
  14. I don't see WoW in the external aircraft model for the A-10C? All I see are a bunch of lights and the speedbrake positions...
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