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Everything posted by rayrayblues

  1. I can't thank you guys enough for all of the big improvement to trains. There are only two minor issues left (compared to what you have done so far). I will address them in separate posts. On The Channel, Persian Gulf, and Syria maps, train wheels are sunken half way into the roadbed except when traveling over bridges, switches, tunnels and some road crossings. This doesn't happen on Caucasus or Normandy. The wheels are on the tracks, not under them. I don't own Nevada and there aren't any railroads on The Marianas Islands. I am downloading the NTTR map and will update this post later. Thanks again for all of your hard work, Ray UPDATED INFO: I just downloaded NTTR and the trains are fine. The problem seems to only affect Persian Gulf, The Channel and Syria maps.
  2. The F-86 has a working guncam that can be used either in game or replay only.
  3. I love them all, but if I had to recommend one for a beginner it would be the P-51. As @Callsign112 said above, It's free. If you have never flown a taildragger before, you can use the TF-51D to learn all the basics before you commit to a purchase. The only downside being no weapons. I do not recommend using "auto rudder" unless you don't have pedals. Auto Rudder is for joysticks with a twist grip. As @grafspee mentioned above, if you learn with it on, you will have to learn all over again if you turn it off. You might as well use game mode. To start learning, set the "Take Off Assistance" to 50 and then reduce it 10 at a time until you can take off consistently without it. The Bf-109 K is the only German plane I own and except for last year's "free to play" event I haven't flown the Anton or the Dora very much, but IIRC I liked the Anton best. I found all three DE planes difficult to taxi, but once you get them off the ground and trimmed they all fly really nice. Once you get the hang of flying a taildragger, the differences between the WW11 birds are minor. The hardest part for me to get used to is that touchdown speed is only about 5mph above stall speed. Be mindful of that and you'll have lots of fun. Good luck with your choice.
  4. I don't fully understand what you're saying about WW11 stuff, but I did catch what you said about "the hardware to store it on". It sounds to me as if you are running out of drive space. It happened to me back in May. My current install is 214Gb and it's not going to get any smaller. I haven't bought anything in several months, but my size on disc is up by about 30Gb and it goes up a little with every update. I have all maps except for Nevada. You will (we all will) eventually have to buy a larger drive to store it on. New drives are not cheap. Amazon.com: SAMSUNG (MZ-V8V1T0B/AM) 980 SSD 1TB - M.2 NVMe Interface Internal Solid State Drive with V-NAND Technology : Electronics is $130.00 Mine is dedicated for DCS. My OS is on a separate drive. I have 14gGb of mods & scripts and I also moved my Saved Games folder over (to make room on my C drive) for a total of 450Gb. DCS takes up a lot of space and it won't be long before a dedicated drive (at least 500Gb) will be a minimum requirement. I lost a lot of work last year due to Covid so I understand about budgetary concerns. Sometimes you just have to "bite the Bullet" I'm just glad that I had enough room on my credit card.
  6. Very nice. I am getting exactly the same as your 1080Ti with a 1660Ti in 1080P and 2X MSAA. (specs in sig) Marianas, Syria and Channel run pretty smooth with only an occasional micro stutter. Caucasus, P Gulf, and Normandy are even better. I am very happy with this card. I bought it when it was first released for $279.00 I saw one yesterday on Amazon for $1,499.00. YIKES!!
  7. Are there any sound files for trains? It's kinda' weird not hearing any choo choo or clickety clack sounds.
  8. Apparently there is, but these guys aren't talking.
  9. @Lee1That is true. This is an old thread though and since then the 88's have been given bombs. At the time of this writing it only came with torpedo's with no proper ships to sink.
  10. Thank you all so much for the many recent improvements to trains. They are now visible on F10 and have their own view, LCtrl+F12. Try as I may, I cannot get AI or Door Gunners to shoot at enemy trains. They will shoot at any other enemy, but enemy trains seem to be invisible. Door Gunner Won't Shoot Train_1.trk
  11. You can find it in gui settings.
  12. Disregard previous message. @BIGNEWY A big thank you to ED for finally fixing trains. We can now see where they are. IDK what happened. I just restarted the game, started a 1 year old mission and now all trains are visible. The only thing I see wrong right now is that they are a bit more resistant to gunfire. A little harder to kill with guns. Gotta' aim for the wheels. There is also no sound. All trains are silent.
  13. @BIGNEWY They are now visible on F10 map and LCtrl+F12 view, however, missions made before the change might not show them at all. Only on F10. You can fly right over them and they are invisible. Seems you must make a new mission in order to see them.
  14. rayrayblues


    Why not. Not only was it 1/2 of the total war, but lasted longer and produced many iconic planes and ships.
  15. Then why is it happening? If as you say, it is not modeled, then there is something else going on. If I try to do a vertical landing or takeoff without Yaw AP on, I will almost always enter a spin, depending on wind speed and direction as soon as I come to a hover. There is not enough right anti-torque thrust available to recover. There is lots of good info in this article: LTE: the cliff edge | Flight Safety Australia This applies to all helicopters. The Hind just happens to be more sensitive to LTE caused by tail rotor VRS. (or at least the DCS version is.) The best landing approach (for me at least) is to reset trims to center and turn AP off. Line up on the LZ and then engage the Yaw AP. I can then slow to a hover, without spinning and gently set her down; even with a 45 degree wind.
  16. I've been seeing it forever.
  17. Did ATC give you clearance to land? Which map? What were you flying? So many details left out.
  18. @dresoccer4Sorry, I thought that it applies to all FFB trims including rudder. The other 2 modes do. Do you have FFB pedals or just the stick & twist? The twist doesn't work well in DCS. It's not precise enough. I use the rocker/slider on the throttle, my old ass feet and legs don't work too well any more. I walk with a cane. Just trying to help. I don't have FFB so.............. It may be time for a bug report.
  19. It has been there since the beginning. It is dependent upon wind direction, particularly a headwind at 45 degrees off the nose or tail. This wind condition causes the tail rotor to enter VRS from the downwash of the main rotor. The tip vortices interfere with each other. Takeoff, landing and hover in GE with a 45 degree headwind are the most likely conditions for this to happen. The Yaw AP channel is there to stabilize the ship and prevent LTE from occurring. You should always use the AP when taking off, landing or hovering in GE. That's what the engineers designed it for. I strongly suggest mapping buttons to AP on and AP off for maximum overall control of the ship.
  20. It's starting to look like a FFB problem only. I have a conventional stick (spring centered) and my trimmer works perfectly. I am assuming that you also have the correct mode selected for FFB. I would suggest that you make an official bug report.
  21. It is important to find a balance between the cyclic and collective before activating trim. This is true for all helos, but more so for the Hind. This bird flies pretty straight and true without trim. If you are pushing forward a lot to remain level, your collective is too high. The same is true if you are pulling back to keep the nose up, your collective is too low. First off, I don't recommend large curves on your axis settings. Depending on your equipment +10 to +15 on the pitch & roll and 0 on the collective and yaw will do. I make sure that I'm flying straight and level and that the side slip ball is centered without trim before I press the trim button. All I need to do then is simply use the trim hat to fine tune it and I am hands off in just a few seconds. My HOTAS only has one hat switch which I use for view, so I mapped my up, down, left & right arrow buttons to this axis. The trims and auto pilots are not interconnected. They are separate systems. What you do to one will not affect the other. I do recommend using the "Rudder Trimmer" option as it makes life so much easier and it's really not a cheat. It is there to compensate for the lack of hydraulics in spring centered pedals. In the real bird, rudder trim is called pedal dampening. If you have FFB pedals then I recommend using the pedal dampener, otherwise use the "Rudder Trimmer". The Yaw AP is very useful when taking off and landing as well as holding a set heading. This is also not a cheat. It is installed by the manufacturer for a reason; well, two actually. It is a heading hold for long trips and most importantly, it is to compensate for the Hind's natural tendency towards LTE during take off, landing and hover in certain wind conditions. To takeoff, first I pull my stick back a little and to the right and set it in with the trimmer. Then I turn on the Yaw AP and lift off straight up in a hover and rotate to my desired direction of travel. Then at about 100 feet. (30m) altitude I press the trim reset button. When the trim returns to center, the nose will drop slightly, but that's exactly what I want. It starts me accelerating towards forward flight without having to push forward too much on the cyclic. I level off with the VSI on 0 and the side slip ball in the center. Then I press the trim button, release the stick for a second and then fine tune with the hat. If I do it right, I don't get the sudden deviation when trimming. It has already happened when I went from takeoff attitude to forward flight. BTW, if you press and hold the button, like on the Ka-50, the nose also drops , so................ If you are fighting it. you are doing something wrong. You are probably not balanced between stick and collective. There is no interaction between trim and AP. One does not affect the other, but both affect the whole. Try flying without trim, get it as close to straight and level as you can, then press trim and fine tune with the hat. This is a large and heavy bird. She doesn't respond well to hard and fast inputs. Be gentle with her and she'll be gentle with you. Don't manhandle her. If you find it hard to get her back in line after a while, she may be damaged. Turn off Yaw AP, reset trims and start over. The many adjustments you make while flying along are accumulative. The trim reset may just be your best friend. A common theme/complaint across all these threads is "The Hip doesn't do this or that or the Huey or the Ka-50 etc, etc, ad infinitum, ad nauseum. Stop comparing her to the Kamov, the Hip or the Huey, she is neither. She has her own personality. You must learn to deal with her on her own terms. This is a systems question about how the cyclic trim interacts with the Autopilot Wrong, they don't interact. They are separate systems, they each do their own job, but both apply to the whole bird. "like the Mi-8 - like the in the Shark - as you would do in the Mi-8 - operate the trim exactly like you would in the Shark " See what I mean about comparing to the other birds, sorry Dude, I don't mean to pick on you, but you said it all in one post. The hind is not any of those other birds, so stop comparing. Those other three aren't like each other, and neither is the Hind like any of those. An eagle is not a robin, or a crow, or a sparrow, or a hummingbird. Accept her for who she is, not what you want her to be. Apologies to Ornithopter, rant over.
  22. @Rudel_chw Hey Eduardo, I figured it out. The first time I ran the move, it copied my user mods into my main game folder. IDK how that happened. I sure didn't send them there. I did a clean up and removed them all. My game is back up and running with all of my user mods in place. Thanks again for your help. Ray
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