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About rdibley

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1973
  1. I've had the MongoosT-50CM2 with the Thrustmaster F-18 grip for a couple of years now, and I highly recommend the combo. The Virpil base is simply amazing. I wrote a review on their webpage, so I won't repeat it here, but it is so good in so many ways. The only "negative" I can even think of is that you have to mount it to something, but I don't know if that's fair to call it a negative. Once you start using it, you'll never want to go back to your Thrustmaster base. The F-18 grip is very nice, and I only had a little bit of trouble where the grip and the shaft had a little bit
  2. Threadlock would definitely work in the short term, and maybe permanently? I don't know. It's a simple fix and worth a try. You got me thinking... another idea would be to use bonding putty. It's like a stick of clay that you knead, then it hardens like an epoxy. You wouldn't need to use much, just a little on the curved ribs on the right grip, and then wrap wax paper around the shaft as you press it into the putty.
  3. First, thanks for figuring out the switches and posting your tutorial. I bought a couple OTTO switches back in January and only got around to replacing them last week. I added another unnecessarily complex but awesome modification that you might be interested in. The Problem: After maybe 6 months of regular use with my F-18 stick, I started noticing a "clunk" in the pitch axis that would occur when going from large positive to large negative stick motion, and vice versa. It took me a while to narrow down what was causing it, but I finally figured out that the joystick shaft to grip inter
  4. There are just a few tips I'd like to add to your post on the F-18 grip: A tip for geting the nosewheel steering switch out without too much force or damage: The switch has two plastic retaining tabs that have to be pressed in to remove the switch. In my case, one of the tabs was on the near side and one on the far side, hidden from view. Use the short end of an allen wrench on the far side to reach around the switch and push in the plastic retainer tab while keeping pressure on the switch to push it out of the mounting hole. When you get it, you will feel a slight movement of the switch as
  5. I'm not a troll, guys. You just don't agree with me. When I read this update: "We have worked hard to increase the range and visibility of lights to enhance the night flying experience. We know that it is far from perfect and will continue to improve the look and feel at night." I was really looking forward to trying it out. When I did, it didn't look right. I was disappointed. I adjusted the gamma and it looks better, but they're not there yet. As they said, they will continue to improve the look and feel at night, and I'm giving feedback and hoping for the best. I just want
  6. I fly VR only. I gave it another try, and set my gamma to 1.0 initially but was way too dark, a gamma of 1.5 seemed more reasonable so I went with that and things looked much better than before. I think I had the gamma turned up too high from the earlier version and that was part of the problem. What is the recommended gamma for VR with a HTC Vive? The stars look better now, but there's still something a little off with them. Maybe it's that they only render the highest magnitude (brightness) stars, so there are a bunch of bright points in the sky with nothing else? In re
  7. I live out in the desert, where most of the time you can see the constellations pretty easily. Drive 20 miles out of town on a dark night and you can see the Milky Way. I know what you're saying, but the stars just don't look right in the game. They are way too bright (and big). As I was playing the updated version, I turned down the gamma and it looked better, but still it was too much. What is the recommended gamma setting, by the way? About the cities, I've flown over cities and the picture you show looks like real life. I don't know how to describe it, but the game looks l
  8. Prior to the update, I always thought that night flying wasn't too far off from the real thing. My favorite missions are those in the middle of the night with no moon out, where you have to rely on the aircraft instruments and sensors. I'm really disappointed with how it looks after the update. To start, the APU light in the F-18 is blinding when it comes on. Some of the other lights are similar. Everything is much brighter than before. Ok, so maybe it just means that I need to turn the brightness down with everything and adjust the gamma setting. But it's still very bright. Th
  9. This issue has been solved with the last F-18 update.
  10. I'm seeing slightly different behavior, but I think you're onto something. I'm using a Virpil MongoosT-50, and without changing the defaults settings for TDC slew, it stops if you put in large TDC inputs in either axis. I've changed the slope of the curve in both axes to reduce the maximum value. This slows the slewing, but gets rid of the stopping issue when going to full microstick deflections in either axis. However, the problem still appears when I put in large diagonal inputs. Scaling back even further eventually eliminates the diagonal input issue, but then the slewing is way too sl
  11. I tested it out a little. The LSS of the TPOD does not function properly. It does do some search pattern, but it isn’t anything that makes sense. Sometimes it oscillates a few degrees left and right of center, other times it’s making wide circles around the periphery of the viewable area. When I could get it to oscillate about the centerline, I was able to steer the point onto the target and have it lock on, but it would only stay locked on to the target for a short time, the. It would reset back to the weird search pattern. So yeah, it doesn’t work properly. I was able to use the DM
  12. Sorry, Djmitri, I should have RTFM. I'm going to go back and give it another try. I'll try out the slave mode too. Both sound really helpful. Harlikwin, understood about the DMT. That works fine for me. But there are times when the TPOD is more useful than the DMT. In my particular case, I was flying a CAS mission at night and looking for targets near the lased target, but not specifically the lased target. As for what it's called, this is going to drive you both nuts, but the Razbam guide calls the LSS the "Laser Spot Track Mode."
  13. Has the LSS on the TPOD been implemented as of now? I tried using it, and it appears to scan and lock onto the lased target for a short time, then it goes back into a search mode again. The pattern the tracking head takes when searching seems a little strange, spinning around in azimuth with little elevation change. Also, the optics are functioning during the search mode. On the hornet, the display goes black while searching. Since it’s the same pod, it would seem to me that the two are implemented differently, or the harrier isn’t complete. Anyone know what’s going on?
  14. That's not the part that gets me. They keep pushing that they have the F-16 stick to go with the new DCS F-16 module, but they don't mention anything about the throttle quadrant. I'm really confused as to why Thrustmaster didn't do anything about this prior to the release. They have the Cougar throttle quadrant already designed. They would need to redo the interface, but how hard would that be? They seem to have very little invested in development. Maybe the aircraft sims are too small a market for them? They've been milking the Warthog HOTAS for so long, I can't help bu
  15. I was initially going to wait for it to be sold with a base, then decided to buy the stick and a Virpil base. Problem solved.
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