TomVR

Released this project with the primary base being MMJOY2

Thanks to my incredible patreons and PCBWay I’ve reached the milestone of having a complete electrical guide! I've also got a bonus in this video, a complete kit for mounting the stick to any office chair. This could be adapted for other joysticks too! Keep your eyes out for updates on my youtube, github and patreon! Here is the previous video build guide on how to put the mechanical parts together: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdYbF5dOYag You can download the files directly from my github page, including STEP files: https://github.com/RightRudderLeftStick/OpenSource-VeryBigStick All the parts are 100% open source (CC BY-SA 2.0) so feel free to remix, redesign, Just please share them with the community! The electrical setup supports both freejoy and MMJOY2 It uses cheap commodity components like 608 Skateboard bearings and 6003 bearings (common in power tools) and is almost entirely 3D printed (PETG) with a 0.6 nozzle and using common 2020 extruded aluminum bars. My goal for the project is by using entirely commodity parts, I can keep the entire final bill of materials under 150 USD! Designed for the core to be printed on an Ender 3 with a single 1KG roll of PETG and add-ons can be printed in PLA+ Supporting my patreon will allow me to buy filament, hardware, bearings and electronics Also get early access to in-progress files, and at a higher tier have your name engraved into the gimbal itself.

edit: nevermind I forgot the pins IDs in mmjoy2 arent the ones printed. my A2/A3 CS pins where F4/F5. Also mmjoy2 can only do the 14bits from the TLE5010, not the full 16?

Working with the aliexpress TLE5011 and cannot get anything to work with mmjoy2. I'm following this config with a pro micro and I just get link errors and no data. This is the TLE5010 board im using. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32634095245.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.74.c3e21802ZxuR5a

Don't know anything about how it performs, but the lack of an emergency E-stop switch is very concerning.

Does MMJOY2 not work at all on windows 11? I tried opening up (v20160818upd1) and it doesn't display any window and then the troubleshooter comes up to ask if the app installed correctly. Trying to run in any compatibility mode doesn't make a difference.

I'm actually interested in making an F-104 grip for the coming module. Is the airbrake switch latching in the front and back positions, momentary or latching forward and momentary back? Also how much travel does the switch have?

The stiction thing is hit or miss, I have one damper thats perfect, finger tip movement, and another two from the same seller bought a month later that are basically friction brakes, useless garbage. I am looking to get them serviced somewhere, maybe they need new oil.

Would you sell me just the grip? I don't need a throttle for this project.

bump

Okay so thats an arduino micro, so that narrows it down that its either running MMJOY2 or custom arduino code. I'd suggest asking on the mmjoy2 thread if anyone can ID it directly and try and get the firmware flashed off of it.

Hi, I'm working on this open source 3d printable gimbal which plans to support TM grips natively (Files available now on our github: https://github.com/RightRudderLeftStick/OpenSource-VeryBigStick ) I want to track down a TM grip that we can validate with. Something that fits the Warthog/F-18/cougar/virpil standard with the M36x2 threaded mount and PS/2 style connector. As we develop the electrical plans and need a grip to prototype with. Anything that works regardless of cosmetic condition would be great, so in theory even an old cougar would work, but the best would be a warthog since it has the most inputs to test against. This will be funded by our patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RightRudderLeftStick In theory one with a broken bottom neck would work, since we actually don't need to use it, just to test the electrical and buttons.

Since its a homemade stick do you have any idea what electronics its using? Is it MMJOY2, freejoy, Leo Bodnar board or something custom? Can you take a picture of the pcb? If you know what it's controlled with it's possible to try and flash the firmware

ask on the discord for freejoy: https://discord.com/channels/438688364359581707/698102536128692305

I think that's just a limitation of that kind of alps switch, and you are suppose to use logic in hardware to detect when its just push or its push+direction. Which is a bit of a pain for us if we want to just drop in compatibility with a shift register. This 8-way from alps I believe doesn't have that issue. It is a different size though so not a drop in replacement. https://tech.alpsalpine.com/e/products/detail/RKJXM1015004/

I am losing my mind trying to program an as5600 in 3 wire mode. I remove the R4 resistor on the aliexpress pcb to enable analog mode. I then wire up vcc, out and ground. Then I get the gpo (pgo) pin to ground. The out goes to high as expected. Then I go to the start position. Short out to ground and then disconnect (float the pin) and then turn clockwise to the end position, short out to ground and then float the out pin again… and then reconnect everything and the range is unaffected but now the chip programming is burnt and cant be redone. Wasted 3 ships so far and only got 2 unused left (for my two axis stick) so really want to figure out what I am doing wrong before I try again.

What is your programming process for 3 wired more? Tried to do it and bricked 3 sensors

another great reference is this photogrammetry can someone did ages ago of a static display https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/mcdonnell-douglas-f-4-phantom-ii-65e172a92b6d4783892b6c9dc1b1a4bc

That throttle grip seems to be shared among the century series fighters too. Would love to try and replicate for 3D printing.

Oh no! The whole appeal of these kind of switches is the clean “break”. They barely move until they snap into actuation. So much more tactile and deliberate. A spring would just make it mushy and bad

I wonder if there are different weights that exist in this form factor, option for a heavier switch would be nice. The red cap is exactly 1:1 to the dimensions of the P1 switch Cad model from OTTO I have, which was a very nice happenstance

The famous (and expensive) P1-1 OTTO Pushbutton, now replicated using a 6mm threaded tact button from Aliexpress and then 3d printed ring to go around it This is the exact store page I bought the switch from https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004689177372.html I've also updated one with a "hidden flange" where there is a 1mm lip around the edge and the tube is slightly undersized, for putting into holes where you want to glue it at the top and not have it fall through. (some B8 Grips) Here is the thingiverse page https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5654238

Hempstick.... has returned!

those arent CD4021B shift registers, so you can't make them 1:1 compatible with TM bases

I get what you are saying, I think any forces that can cause the printed gimbal to fail are beyond what is reasonably safe for a "game controller" I mean we aren't trying to build hand crushing device.