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Kenpilot

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Posts posted by Kenpilot

  1. For those of you who 3D print your own knobs, how do you paint them for backlighting? Do you tape off lines and arrows and then spray paint them? Do you hand paint them?  I've tried printing some using translucent PETG and taped off small lines and arrows on them and spray painted them but it comes out looking like crap, and trying to tape and then cut straight lines and tiny arrows on the knobs is super annoying and not the easiest task. How is everyone doing this? Thanks! 

  2. 8 minutes ago, Beirut said:

     

    All I know about overclocking is that I know nothing about overclocking.

     

    Also, with "inexpensive" mid-level CPUs hitting high 3Ghz and low 4Ghz, I don't see the need. As stated, the difference in games with CPUs seems to be marginal. I have a $400 3700X, 8-core/16-thread. If I spent $1000 and bought a 3950X, 16-core/32-thread, I'll bet the difference in the sim would be small. Certainly in comparison to the money spent.

    Roger that, thanks for all your help! Definitely going to be keeping an eye out for the 3080. 

  3. 1 minute ago, Beirut said:

    From what I've seen it's 90% about the GPU. I've watched a ton of comparison videos, and assuming your rig has at least decent specs, the real change lies in the GPU. 

     

    If your CPU is "good enough" and you have at least 16 or 32GB of RAM, it's all about the GPU. That's where you get the 25% or 50% or 100% FPS increase. I've seen game comparison videos where a decent mid-level CPU goes against a monster high-end CPU and the difference sometimes is marginal. The RAM certainly helps but 32 is enough except for really big scenarios.

     

    It's all about the GPU. 

    Thanks for the feedback. 3 years ago when I got my GPU, the 1080 ti was one of the best out there. Do you know if the 3080 or 3080 ti is worth upgrading to from the 1080 ti? Again, if I can even get my hands on one. 

  4. Hey guys, I'm looking to get the best possible performance and graphics as I can while playing DCS. Who isn't right? It's pretty good as it is now but I'd really like to be able to turn all the graphics on HIGH and add all the extra stuff that really makes this game shine. I'm a graphics snob so I want all the detail possible, but of course, I want my cake and eat it too so I want the performance to be smooth as can be as well.  Here is what I have in my PC now:

    Motherboard - ROG STRIX Z390-F GAMING

    CPU - Intel Core i7-8700K Coffee Lake 6-Core 3.7 GHz (4.7 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W BX80684I78700K (NOT OVERCLOCKED)

    Memory - Corsair Vengeance LPZ 32 GB DDR4 DRAM 3200Mhz 

    Hardrive - Samsung 960 EVO 500 GB SSD

    GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition GAMING, 11G-P4-6393-KR, 11GB GDDR5X

     

    I'm also using 2 Benq HT2150ST Projectors on to a 180 degree curved wide screen that I built. Yes, I know I'm not going to get as good as graphics and performance as I would on let's say a gaming monitor, and that's one of the reasons why I want to be able to max out everything so that I can get it to look as good as I can. 

     

    Is it worth it to upgrade any of the hardware that I have now or should I just keep what I have and wait for the newer processor or GPU to come out? If I can actually get my hands on one that is. 

     

    As far as overclocking, I've never done it before. I'm sure there are plenty of videos and how-tos on youtube these days, and I'm not afraid of trying it if you guys think it would make that big of a difference in what I'm looking for. 

     

    Thanks for any help and suggestions!!

  5. I have the same setup as you, 2 projectors displaying on a 180 degree screen and using Fly Elise. I can't get mine to display properly either. Were you ever able to get it figured out? I used the exact .lua that is exported with Fly Elise and I selected it in the DCS settings under Monitor, and the resolution is 1920x1080, with an aspect ratio of 1.33333. I'm sure it has something to do with either the selected resolution or something in the .lua file that is exported. 

     

     

    DCS Displayed On 180 Widescreen.jpg

  6. Les, thank you so much!! This looks like it should get me on the right track. I agree, without so many awesome forum members on here, I would be completely lost with most of this stuff and I definitely wouldn't have a simpit, at least not one that would work! Thanks again so much for taking the time to explain all of this, it's exactly what I needed. I'll let you know if I run in to any issues or post on here. Hopefully one of these days when I'm more well versed in this stuff, I'll be able to pay it forward on here as well. Thanks again so much for your time!! 

     

    Agrasyuk, thank YOU too!! 

     

     

  7. Ah ok, didn't know there was a difference. Thanks for the info!! I'm needing LCD displays for the A10 CMSP and CMSC, so I just need letters and numbers Displayed. I was just looking at your thread that you posted and it looks like it might help me with all of the other panels that I'll be using LCD displays for, ILS, Radios, etc. Only problem is, when I started reading thru that post, my head started to spin. I'm very new to arduino and DCS Bios, and completely new to LCD displays, so I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to those. I have a 3rd grade knowledge when it comes to Arduino and DCS Bios as I have used them for my landing gear panel, hydraulic/fuel gauge panel/fire T handles, indicator lights and the caution panel. So needless to say I know how to use them for LED's and switches, but haven't messed around with displays yet. If anyone knows of a LCD display for dummies and their use with arduino and dcs bios thread or how to, please let me know! Like a step by step, you need to buy this display (include link), you need to hook it up to the arduino like this, and then you need to go in to dcs bios and arduino IDE, etc... you get the point. Thanks for any and all help!! 

  8. Hey guys, I'm getting to the part of my A10 pit where I'm needing to start installing displays. I'm starting with the A10 CMSP and the CMSC. I have no experience with these things and was wondering if there are any tutorials or DIY explanations on which ones I will need and how to wire them up and then code them? After some research, it looks like I need a couple 20x2 OLED displays for these 2 panels, but there are several out there. Anyone have any suggestions or links of that they've used? If it helps, I'm using arduino megas. Thanks for any help or guidance! 

  9. Just now, Savvy said:

    I doesn't really matter from what I've seen. I think most of the ones I use for things like heading/course knobs are 20step encoders.

    Do they allow for 360 degrees continuous rotation and in either direction?

  10. 10 minutes ago, agrasyuk said:

    sounds about right. if you are trying the A-10 the first stop is actually 7 degrees. roughly times 3 will gets you the 20 full flap degree.

    to resolve set your step one to ~7 

    3 times what will get me the 20 full flap degree? 

  11. On 5/20/2021 at 8:36 AM, Vinc_Vega said:

    Hi Ken,

     

    I use a PWM servo driver board for the pcflights fuel gauge, but maybe the values make sense even to your setup.

    If not, it could be a way to start from and adjust to your needs.

     

    
    #define SERVOMIN_R  265 // 6000 lbs for Fuel Qty Right
    #define SERVOMAX_R  438 // 0 lbs for Fuel Qty Right
    #define SERVOMIN_L  232 // 0 lbs for Fuel Qty Left
    #define SERVOMAX_L  420 // 6000 lbs for Fuel Qty Left

     

    Regards, Vinc

     

    After going back and looking at the arduino sketch, mine looks nothing like yours. Did you get that sketch from the DCS Bios control reference for the A10? Or did you create that sketch on your own? 

  12. 1 hour ago, No1sonuk said:

    544 and 2400 are the number of microseconds (us) for the 0 and full travel positions.
    The DCS servo commands take their numbers and "map" them to the servo range you've given, then send that out to the servo.
    544 and 2400 are "safe defaults" that shouldn't overdrive most servos.

    So, if the full range of the DCS numbers were 0 to 90, when the DCS number was zero, the servo would be set for 544us.  If it was90, the servo would be set for 2400 us.
    What you need to do is determine the us numbers for your servos' 0 and full travel points, then put those into the servo commands. BUT, you have to be gauge-specific.

    e.g. the flaps gauge only has 90 degrees of travel, so you need to figure out the 0 and 90 point us numbers and go from there.

    So I tried what you said and I figured out the 0 and 90 point us numbers for the flaps gauge. They are 1325 and 1770. That gives me the 90 degrees of travel from 0 degrees flap position indication to 30 degrees flap position. Now what? Cause right now with those numbers, If I select flaps to 10 degrees, it goes to 10 degrees, but when I select flaps 20 degrees, it goes all the way to flaps 30 degrees indication, when the flaps are actually at 20. I'm totally lost. 

  13. 1 hour ago, No1sonuk said:

    544 and 2400 are the number of microseconds (us) for the 0 and full travel positions.
    The DCS servo commands take their numbers and "map" them to the servo range you've given, then send that out to the servo.
    544 and 2400 are "safe defaults" that shouldn't overdrive most servos.

    So, if the full range of the DCS numbers were 0 to 90, when the DCS number was zero, the servo would be set for 544us.  If it was90, the servo would be set for 2400 us.
    What you need to do is determine the us numbers for your servos' 0 and full travel points, then put those into the servo commands. BUT, you have to be gauge-specific.

    e.g. the flaps gauge only has 90 degrees of travel, so you need to figure out the 0 and 90 point us numbers and go from there.

    Thanks for the response! That's my problem, how do I figure out the 0 and 90 point us numbers??? Do I just randomly guess two different numbers and check it? This will take forever. I have tried a couple different people's servo settings from their sketches and none of them have matched the gauge in DCS. I don't think I'm understanding the whole concept of the microseconds and the 0-90, etc. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I look at it like this: A servo travels 180 degrees. The flap position indicator for the A-10 travels from the 3 0'clock position (0 degrees of flaps) to a full flaps (30 degrees) 6 0'clock position. To me that is the 90 degree position to the 180 degree position. I have found two numbers that make it go from the 0 flaps position ( 3 o'clock/90 degree position) to the 30 degrees flap position (6 o'clock/180 degree position) but when I select flaps 10 degrees down from 0, the gauge indicates  like 12 degrees flaps, not 10. Then when I select flaps 20 goes down from 10, the indicator goes to 30 degrees of flaps. Then when I retract them, they stop at totally different numbers. I'm completely lost. 

     

    Shouldn't everybody's servo numbers be the same in the arduino sketch for the flap position indicator? Why does everyone have different numbers? 

     

    Am I understanding the math correctly or is this not how servos work? (544-2400 microseconds = 180 degrees of travel). So if we take 2400 minus 544 = 1856 microseconds to travel 180 degrees. 1856 divided by 180 = 10.31 microseconds to travel 1 degree. So let's say the 0 degrees flap setting indication for my servo is 1300, then using the math I just used, the 30 degree flap setting (90 degrees of travel=927.9 microseconds) should be 2228. (1300 + 927.9). 

  14. 1 hour ago, Vinc_Vega said:

    Hi Ken,

     

    I use a PWM servo driver board for the pcflights fuel gauge, but maybe the values make sense even to your setup.

    If not, it could be a way to start from and adjust to your needs.

     

    
    #define SERVOMIN_R  265 // 6000 lbs for Fuel Qty Right
    #define SERVOMAX_R  438 // 0 lbs for Fuel Qty Right
    #define SERVOMIN_L  232 // 0 lbs for Fuel Qty Left
    #define SERVOMAX_L  420 // 6000 lbs for Fuel Qty Left

     

    Regards, Vinc

     

    Thanks Vinc, I'll definitely give it a shot!

  15. Does anyone have any of the PC flights gauges for the A10 and uses them with DCS Bios and Arduino? I can't get them to match what the in game DCS gauges are reading. I've looked them up and their values are 544, 2400 and I've messed around with those values in the Arduino sketch but I can't get them to match up for the life of me. If anyone has these and has gotten them to work, please let me know what your values are in your arduino sketches! Thanks!

  16. I've just started using DCS Bios and Arduino and I'm having a tough time dialing in the servo settings so that the gauges in my panels move with and show what the actual gauges in DCS are showing. Is there an actual method as to what numbers you put in the sketch command lines for the servo settings or do you literally have to just guess and keep putting in random numbers until your gauges show and move with the gauges in DCS? More specifically, I'm talking about the flaps gauge, hydraulic press and fuel quantity gauges. For example, the default values in the DCS Bios Control Reference Sketches are 544, 2400. What exactly do these numbers mean and again, is there an actual method to dial in the right numbers or is it a total guessing game and you have to keep changing them and going back in to DCS to see if you have the right numbers? This obviously will take forever. Thanks!

  17. 6 minutes ago, crash test pilot said:

    What kind of LEDs are these? I suspect it may be a high-power led module that needs a pwm signal for brightness adjustment. You should use a two pin LED, one contact to ground and one to the signal pin on your arduino. Do not forget the resistor or your LED burns very bright once and not at all after that.

    They are indicator lights, korry style replicas, that I purchased from pcflights.com. The leds are built in to the indicator. 

     

    https://pcflights.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=245&search=Boeing+indicator

     

    Is there any way to make the 3 pin indicator work or do I need to remove the led that's in the indicator and put in 2 wire ones? 

  18. I need some help with the Landing Gear Safe indicator lights. Each of my LED indicator lights have 3 pin wire connectors. The GND is connected to a GND, The red wire is connected to 5v on the uno and the yellow(signal) wire is connected to pins 5,6,7 for Left, Nose and Right and the lights are continuously on. My sketch command lines are copied directly from the DCS Bios control reference. How come they are continuously ON and not what seems like getting communication from the sketch and turning on and off depending on what the actual lights are doing in DCS???

     

    /*
      Tell DCS-BIOS to use a serial connection and use interrupt-driven
      communication. The main program will be interrupted to prioritize
      processing incoming data.

      This should work on any Arduino that has an ATMega328 controller
      (Uno, Pro Mini, many others).
    */
    #define DCSBIOS_IRQ_SERIAL


    #include "Servo.h"
    #include "DcsBios.h"


    DcsBios::ServoOutput flapPos(0x10a0,10, 1330, 1790);
    DcsBios::LED handleGearWarning(0x1026, 0x4000, 9);


    DcsBios::LED gearLSafe(0x1026, 0x1000, 6);
    DcsBios::LED gearNSafe(0x1026, 0x0800, 7);
    DcsBios::LED gearRSafe(0x1026, 0x2000, 8);

    void setup() {
      DcsBios::setup();
    }

    void loop() {
      DcsBios::loop();

    4 hours ago, No1sonuk said:

    I'd set up a standalone unit to test this.  Just put only the servo drive part in and don't connect anything else.

    If you have too much hanging off the arduino's power supply, it could cause problems.
    If it works fine in that configuration, try using an external 5V supply with the other setup.

    I've tried this before with only the servo connected to the uno and it still did the same thing. 

  19. 17 minutes ago, crash test pilot said:

    @stefan1208: You are mixing  the hub version and the non-hub version. "connect-serial-port.cmd" is part of the non-hub version and the com-port gets blocked by the hub. You have to decide which version you want to use.

     

    @kenpilot: Wow, thats new. At least you have 3 distinguishable pointer settings....

     

    So does that mean you're not sure how to fix it so that the indicator matches the indicator and flap settings in DCS? lol 

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