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Everything posted by WhoMadeWho

  1. Great writeup Hansolo!:thumbup::thumbup:
  2. Switches See attached. I've had these for a few years. Unfortunately I don't recall where I found these. Hopefully these help you out. Switches.zip
  3. Checkout http://www.digikey.com . I've bought many switches from them.
  4. Thanks Warhog, I'll PM you my email address. Here's the dimensions of my RWR. Very tight getting the monitor to fit, but it works. Since using screws would put holes thru the screen, I ended up using strong double-sided tape to stick the entire assembly to my panel. Width (X) = 73.138 mm Height (Y) = 78.89 mm
  5. Thanks Warhog for the RS-487 advice! I have RS-487 8 pin DIPs on order along with sockets for them. I've not been able to find any ready made boards that have RS-487 chips for Arduinos for some reason - only ones with 485s. My RS-487 chips were ordered from Digikey and not eBay, so hopefully I won't run into issues with counterfeit chips running hot or not working at all. I recall reading more than a few threads on here with folks having multiple issues with the 485s.
  6. Hi Boltz, I had trouble finding small display as well. I ended up using a 3.5 inch screen which only has a composite input. Due to this, I'm using a VGA to composite converter I got off Amazon. The monitor itself is from Adafruit - https://www.adafruit.com/product/913 Here are a few photos showing how it went together. The monitor is mounted in portrait orientation in a box I made on my CNC. The screws on the face are fake (just screw heads glued on) due to space issues. The target reticle was done with neon green acrylic on my CNC. Hope this info helps!
  7. Thanks Hans! I'll be sourcing some RS485 chips/boards tonight. I found a few threads on here to get me started. My poor USB bus! :smilewink::smilewink:
  8. Hi jrsteensen, I've not yet tackled the attitude indicator. This is an actual instrument out of a Blackhawk helicopter. Its electrically driven and has no gyros inside. I believe it was a backup indicator incase the gyro indicator on the pilots side went inop. My plans for it are to see if I can drive the original (24-volt I believe) motors with an Ardunio. For this, I believe I'll need something to step-up the voltage. For centering I've been using an IR light sensor on my DG indicator, however this has been somewhat unreliable. Of course if anyone has done a real attitude indi
  9. Thought I'd share some photos of my A10C cockpit build progress. The front panel is partial and on a test stand. I REALLY need to figure out RS485/RS487. 23 COM ports are being used... Sometimes I have issues with them going read-only (per SOCAT). :pilotfly:
  10. Hi all, I've been searching around, reading posts (some 9+ years old) trying to figure out if there is a way to set the default view when you first click the Fly button. I want to see the ALT-F1 viewpoint on start without pressing keys. Is this possible without running a macro program? Thanks!
  11. Thanks again to Blue73 for the code! After adding his custom Switches.h and modifying my sketch, I was finally able to get DCS-BIOS to reflect the state of my switches at startup. Code from my sketch (Master Arm panel from the A10) /* Tell DCS-BIOS to use a serial connection and use interrupt-driven communication. The main program will be interrupted to prioritize processing incoming data. This should work on any Arduino that has an ATMega328 controller (Uno, Pro Mini, many others). */ #define DCSBIOS_IRQ_SERIAL #include "DcsBios.h" //// WARNING //// WARNING - using custom S
  12. Thanks Blue73 for the reply! I tried inserting your code but get an error at compile time - "Expected class-name before '{' token".. Can you tell me where I went wrong? Sorry, I'm probably missing something really obvious..:helpsmilie: #define DCSBIOS_IRQ_SERIAL #include "DcsBios.h" // Start class from Blue73 class Switch2Pos : PollingInput { private: const char* msg_; char pin_; char lastState_; bool reverse_; void init_(const char* msg, char pin, bool reverse) { msg_ = msg; pin_ = pin;
  13. Hello, I'm wondering if anyone has found a way to sync **current** switch positions into DCS-BIOS. Problem is I need to cycle switches back and forth before DCS-BIOS knows where my switch is set. I recall reading something would be added into DCS-BIOS v2 but I know the author is busy with school. Any ideas? Thanks all! :) /* Tell DCS-BIOS to use a serial connection and use interrupt-driven communication. The main program will be interrupted to prioritize processing incoming data. This should work on any Arduino that has an ATMega328 controller (Uno, Pro Mini, many othe
  14. Checkout http://www.digikey.com. Huge selection and very prompt shipping, usually same day.
  15. Looking great!! I like your idea of putting in some custom buttons to control the simulator itself. I haven't figured out yet a keyboard/mouse solution that doesn't interfere with the cockpit.
  16. You might try checking digikey.com. They have thousands of switches to choose from.
  17. Fusedspine33 - thanks for posting the pinout. For some reason your pinout is the exact opposite pinout of mine. Guessing the pins are swapped on my DB37 cable..? Here's what my pinout looks like - Next step - Ardunio!
  18. Here is my progress with the panel. I received it from ebay and noted the back has a standard DB37 connector. These cables are common and were used in old PC networking equipment. So I bought one off Amazon.com and cut the end off and soldered Dupont ends on each of the 37 wires. Right now I'm doing a pinout of each wire (note color labels) with my Multimeter. Once this is done I should be able to attach to an Arduino w/DCS BIOS. I believe I'll need to do a matrix type setup, but I haven't gotten that far yet. :)
  19. Thanks for posting this! I just bought one off ebay. I think this would be pretty easy to adapt to an Arduino Mega /w DCS-BIOS. As I get to it, I'll post info.
  20. Here you go - Behr - Silver Screen / Flat Matte (Ultra White). Home Depot paint #1050. 1 Gallon Behr - Black / Flat Matte. Home Depot paint #1300. 1 Quart Behr - Dark Pewter / Semi-Gloss. Home Depot paint #5400. 1 Quart Mix all three approx as. 2l Silver Screen 250ml Black Matte 200ml Dark Pewter I mixed the paints in a new/clean/empty 1gal bucket using a paint mixing drill attachment. For a darker screen, mix in more Black Matte. After mixing I applied with a quality paint roller and achieved excellent results with only one application.
  21. Forget that special 'projector paint'.. total ripoff. I used a recipe I found online to re-paint my screen. The 'black screen' that Simpit sells is actually dark grey. If you are in the USA - I have a paint recipe from Home Depot that works great. Its a mix of three paints. I used a quality paint roller and the results were great.
  22. I bought the 180 avenger from SimPit. My advise - stay away. After payment the communication with the seller/owner stopped for weeks. I had to open a paypal dispute due to no communication. He eventually shipped and said the delay was due to him re-designing it and it wasn't able to fit into the box... When I finally received it I found the assembly instructions didn't match what I received..! He promised an updated manual but never sent it. I Had to figure out how to assemble myself. Also note the wood is very prone to warp and will move around if you bump it in the least. I ende
  23. I'm using the same rotary encoders. Here is my code. I'm using an OLED display so ignore that part... :smilewink: #define DCSBIOS_IRQ_SERIAL #include "DcsBios.h" #include <SPI.h> #include <Wire.h> #include <Adafruit_GFX.h> #include <Adafruit_SSD1306.h> #include <Fonts/dl/digital_counter_717pt7b.h> //Good fonts - FreeMono12pt7b FreeMonoBold12pt7b FreeSerif12pt7b #define OLED_RESET 4 Adafruit_SSD1306 display(OLED_RESET); DcsBios::RotaryEncoder hsiCrsKnob("HSI_CRS_KNOB", "-1000", "+7000", 7, 8); void setup() { display.begin(SSD1306_SWI
  24. I have several of the Display Link USB 2.0 adapters. I found they work quite well for screens that don't have a lot of updates. The overhead on the CPU is minimal - around 3% on my PC. I most likely will use them to drive the RWR, Clock, and possibly other displays.
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