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Thadiun Okona

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About Thadiun Okona

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  1. It's a neat form factor that looks easy to keep cool but a few things jump out to me that might be a problem. The shaft is only 3mm dia with 5mm of projection which could make mounting/coupling a pain but maybe there's nifty heli prop mounting solutions? It's also heavy -nearly double the weight of the APS which is probably why it's more powerful. It also seems like it's optimized for high rpm being aimed at RC helis, where do you find info that it's designed for torque/low rpm?
  2. Nice, I'm on almost the opposite path lol. I'm not doing any mechanical until I've got the hardware/electronics/digital fully accounted for first. Not until I have a clear and coherent parts list and related software readily available. Without the software (cog smoothing/drive stuff, middleware to interpret DirectInput from sims, interface to adjust parameters, USB board stuff etc), this $3-400 of hardware will be a lifeless pile of metal and magnets plastic and silicon. If I understood the digital underpinnings I would have already built my own ages ago, which is why the hot rodded MSFFII app
  3. I love the weathering on these, really makes them not look like printed parts.. same with the texturing like the faux turning grooves on the face of the trim wheel, nice to see attention to detail like this, temps me to build a WWII pit even though I have little interest in those planes
  4. Awesome. I'm nearing a point where I'm ready to start ordering parts and diving into this, but need a sanity check before committing and also checking on the status of the firmware and whatever software is needed to smooth out the bldc motor as well as to communicate with the computer/sims, without which the hardware is useless. I'll likely use an odrive (clone) for the drive, assuming you already made firmware to make it work with this motor? There's still some parts I'm unsure on like encoders.. don't know what type/spec/values to use for this. Also unclear what type of brain/m
  5. Yes but there are no motors listed by APS with 5063 as their designation. Lots of similar numbers but not that one.
  6. Nice to see some progress in this thread. Any chance of just posting a complete hardware list of the mechanicals? I'm really interested in the specifics on the motors/drives/software to smooth their response or adjust parameters and of course to communicate with computer/sims. Beyond that I have my own designs for FF gimbals based on craft I intend to use it for (sailplanes, pitch coupled 50mm longer than roll) and enough basic engineering knowledge to integrate the hardware.
  7. Amazing.. I love projects like this. Reminds me that when doing some contract work at a place that was making mil sim hardware for the army they had something very similar that used a Buttkicker miniLFE installed in the tip for recoil
  8. Both are variable resisters that serve similar functions and work on the same principal but are not the same thing. Rheostats are used for high voltage and can be used directly with RMS loads (fans, lights, heating elements etc) involving actual current. Potentiometers have higher precision but only rated for very low power and are not used directly on RMS loads unless they are tiny. They are generally only used for signal, not load. Joysticks and other input devices use pots as they req precision and there are no RMS loads.
  9. I didn't make these, the work was done by @TomVR but these are the go to standard if you don't want to model your own.. there are 2 3 and 4 ways and a multitude of hats that were modeled off of real ones, plus the source files if you wanted to start customizing them https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452944 As far as the switches themselves, you can use any 6x6x4.3mm tact switch but imo the best ones are the 500 gram force ones by Omron.. they cost 2-3 times more than the typical ones but it's not like you need a lot so go for performance. Typically they're about 1/2 the force of
  10. I bought some of those with high hoped but those Alps switches to feel really mushy and have a strangely long throw for how short the stick is. I prefer printing and making my own 4 ways using nice tact switches
  11. Ahhh.. very cool and now my brain is wrapping around this approach and skateboard motors/drives seem like a great choice. Yeah skewed armatures brush motors are indeed expensive.. luckily after a bit of searching ebay I landed 4 suitable motors for projects for like $30 apiece. I needed brushed motors for the MSFF II hack method using a modded version of the h-bridge circuit and new psu to deliver 400% the current. Still a great approach since you get plug and play functionality for DirectInput and can augment it with FSForce but then builds are limited to the scope of what can be done with th
  12. BLDC is better if you can make it work but did you use brushed motors engineered for low cogging? They are available with skewed armatures for this though not common. Pittman makes a line of suitable motors about the size of Redbull cans that I'm working with.. very nice. I'm using Pittman Lo Cog 14303.. here's what it looks like inside
  13. Neat project, watching with fascination. I'm really interested in the motors/drives and software that is used for this project. I have no interest in replicating MSFFII gimbals architecture (my least favorite gimbals arrangement) however gimbals are easy to make but motor selection/drives and particularly the software to interface it with DirectInput is not, especially if there's a tuning gui as well. OP, how much torque to these motors put out? (peak/hold) and what is your pulley ratio? Details seem a bit vague and there is talk of 8nm in its final form but that's the same output of my
  14. Heh thanks, and no problem. For this mod which doubles the current (adding 1 resistor on top of the old ones) a 3a psu is more than sufficient since 2.8a is the max combined draw. I have tested it both with the stock one and the bigger one and while there is a difference it's not night and day in use but it's easily noticed on the bench. With the stock unit, if you only hold 1 axis off center against the force there is basically enough juice to run it but if you hold both axes off center at the same time the total force developed is noticeably stronger with the bigger psu. I forgot exact
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