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CrashO

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Everything posted by CrashO

  1. I've used them a couple of times, pretty handy things for when you want ultra low profile switches (I used them with a laminated sheet over it, like old style alarm panels), or when you are adding 3d printed covers over them (or anything else). Like you noted, you don't solder them, they got some flex in them, so solder would be to brittle. You just stick them down with some tape/plastic. Just make sure to get the pcb pads right for them (follow the datasheet), and get a good finish on your pcb, I've had some bad experiences with these in combination with HASL from cheap chinese suppliers (the 10pcb's for $8 kind), ENIG works great. Regarding the caps, unless you want to buy 5000 at a time, buying them might be an issue. So you might want to get in touch with Snaptron in CO (http://www.snaptron.com/). They shipped me a sample kit with like 12 different kinds and ~20 of each type for free when I asked for one. (they got a ton of them, different kinds of push-forces, shapes, etc, including with holes in it, so you can even stick smd led under it.. :) )
  2. Dropbox poops out if to many people start downloading. When starway came out with his 1.5 texturepack he had the same problem with distribution, dropbox got blocked within 15min every time. wetransfer works pretty good (and more important, fast), although it gets removed after 4 weeks, but might be good for the initial bump to users. And mediafire works fine too, (that what starway uses at the moment). So I would just stick it on mediafire and wetransfer, and let "the community" setup some torrent seeds until it is widely available.
  3. Not if you put it into "Horizon Secours" mode. (on your right side, is a toggle switch you normally put from down into center position, so your backup ADI can uncage). If you put that switch all the way up, your heading tape and HSI will work on magnetic. Great if your INS is corked (or you don't want to spend the time to align). Although you mention it already was in "INS emergency mode", which would be just that. I find it strange that the INS would still be off (besides the usual couple of degrees difference between true and magnetic). While the distance from waypoints would be unusable, the direction of your heading should work properly. And since the TACAN relies on radio, it too shouldn't be influenced by it. So in emergency mode + TACAN, you should have a HSI & Heading tape, that are both displaying the same as your backup compass. And a big fat arrow pointing to your beacon, with proper distance showing.
  4. Just stick the manual in google translate to spanish, or go and watch Revientor's (Spanish) tutorial videos.
  5. CrashO

    bugs texture

    Tu devrais poser ta question sur le forum Francais mimi. Ici c'est English only. Your skin is missing some required files. About a year ago the format for skins changed when the "dynamic tail numbers" got introduced. (which is why the skin in your screenshots only has issues around the numbers). My guess would be the skin you are using was created before that. Easiest way to fix it is grab on of the original liveries (for example from DCS\CoreMods\aircraft\M-2000C\Liveries\M-2000C\UAE Air Force ) And copy the empty.dds file from there, and the description file. (and then change the file names to match with your custom skin). You will notice this file has a lot more lines then your "old" outdated one. That should fix your issue.
  6. Have you looked into the "DelanClip" yet? It's intended for Ps3 trackir DIY clones. But there's quite a few people using it as a "trackclip Pro" replacement for their trackIr. Runs at about €35,- delivered and the guy ships from the UK.
  7. If you need 8, i'd spring for a ULN2803. (or one of the dozens of alternatives with pretty much the same footprint). Cost something like 50 cents and has 8 inputs+outputs, and can sink 500mA and control everything up to 50V. Simply hook up the inputs directly onto the arduino, and the outputs to the negative lead of your LED's. 5v on pin 1 for example and the negative lead of a led (with resistor) on pin 18 = light. 0v on pin 1 = no light. Repeat 8 times :D *And hook up 9 to 0V/GND and pin 10 to whatever you stick in your leds before the resistor, like 5V. Saves the pain of soldering a ton of mosfets. And if you stick it on a IC socket or on 2 rows of simple headers, you can replace it if you brake it.
  8. Tiny FYI :smartass: There is no difference between the Nano and Mega, when it comes to the USB part. Both don't support native USB (nano uses a FT232 converter, The Mega R3 uses a Atmega16u2) to send serial communication over USB, thus both require V-USB if you want to make a HID out of them. :D
  9. You need to compile it (easiest would be using Atmel studio). Then load it onto the arduino with a In-Circuit-Programmer (or you can reprogram one of your arduino's and use that as a programmer to program this one). This is not an Arduino sketch that can be loaded on using the Arduino software. It's a "normal" AVR project, designed to run on Arduino hardware. *Edit* If you hop into the "Release" directory you can see "JOYTEST-AUTO_02.hex". That's a precompiled version of the firmware. Load that up to a controller using Atmel Studio (or AVRDUDE) and you should have the demo program. But personally, I hate V-usb (worked with it a lot). With the current prices being as they are, I would go with a full-fledged USB version of the Atmel's (ATmega 32U4) like you can find on the Arduino Pro Micro. I know you want to use the Nano because you have it in front of you and want to get going. But, don't forget you cannot connect over the onboard usb using V-USB. The onboard usb connector from a nano goes through a serial converter chip and only supports Serial Communication. V-Usb runs on 2 digital IO's where it "emulates" usb. So you need to solder on a usb cable/connector and some resistors and diodes before you can start using it. (check the schematic on that site)
  10. Well, it won't pass the integrity check now that texture-mods are verboten. So does it matter?:D
  11. Server is down again, crashed an hour into the session :cry: *edit* Came back after about 15min
  12. Maybe it's time to bump this suggestion again? Still feel like it would make the most future proof sense. Especially when the F-14, F-18 and Harrier join in on the party.
  13. Yeah, look at that massive imbalance My helicopter with troops got splashed twice during the push. And raptor's A-10 at least 3 times. There was plenty of red resistance during the roll. Don't blame reapers for your lagfest.
  14. SimpleRadio is broken. Red & Blue can hear each other again, just tested it with a few different players.
  15. Had a Massive (20sec) stutter when someone joined a Viggen (more then usual when someone grabs one). And see constant warping and stuttering of planes around me. The same stuff you see when a server has been running for hours with 60 people. Not with 12.
  16. Sounds more like a sync-problem to me. Like DCS is deciding mid-flight to sync up your controls. The warthog switches are off-on (up is "not pressed", down is "pressed", for most switches on the warthog base). The F-15 keybinds used in the profile for Power and Canopy are toggle. So if your switch is down, during flight something might cause DCS to sync controls, and register the the button "pressed". And toggle the canopy. Same thing for the Electric power. (I just checked the profile you mentioned using, and the APU switch is actually up-side-down when compared to the others. So for your profile: Left Fuel flow switch Up = nothing Left Fuel flow switch Down = Toggle Canopy APU Start switch Up = Toggle Power APU Start switch down = nothing So make sure those switches are in "nothing" positions during your flight to avoid DCS doing funny stuff. (or get some decent profile that utilizes true up/down logic, this profile doesn't make sense to me)
  17. What tweak? I figured you only wanted OFF/ARM, so thats what I wrote it for... it does nothing with safe. I included it in the state-pic-torial for completeness. But the line has only off (-1.00) and arm (1.00). Safe would be 0.00 as a value. This is what happens in-game when I stick my line in and toggle the switch on my warthog up and down. This sounds more like you took Funkyfrankys code instead of mine and just replaced the buttons, and device ID. Leaving the wrong values.
  18. I know you can't find a button 8 in your default.lua. That's the whole point (the preset binds use the virtualbutton (more accurately, a macro) "button 20" that toggles between 3 states. Off/Safe/Armed. I drew a diagram for you. The Top one shows what button 20 (the one implemented in default.lua) does in this case. You can see that whenever you hit the button, it just shifts to the next (or previous state). Great to do a lot of states with only 2 buttons. Not great if you want it to correspond with a physical button. As there is no way to have one keypress, always pointing to the same state. The bottom one ( button 8 ) is the one you need for what you want. Take for example the value of -1.00. (in RED), you can see that whatever the old state is, whether it's off, safe or armed. It will always turn OFF if you enter that value. The same for 0 (safe) and 1 (armed). That's what I tried to explain. If a key-bind has 3 keys in the description (this one was labeled "Armament Off/Safe/Armed Up"), for 1 single button. You can tell there is some black-magic going to be happening under the hood. In this case, some toggle-state magic in the form of a macro, called button_20. Which is why I opened up clickabledata and found that "button 8" is the real-actual-button it uses. TL;DR: Button 20 = No real button, totally fake, fake news...button. It's a virtual copy of button 8 that takes the last state and toggles to the next or previous state. Great for using 1 click to turn a knob 1 click, or move a switch 1 click. Not so great to bind to toggle switches. Button 8 = The Armament switch. And copy pasting my line in, should Work. I tested my code, and it runs just fine. Don't forget a comma at the end of the line to separate if from other key-commands though, But I kind of assumed that was obvious. The reason why what you tried does work for Funkyfrankys's code when binding a landing light. Is because those are 2-position switches. And this ARM one has more then 2 (and uses that state thing). So just keep an eye on the description. A single button with more then 2 functions (on/off) == something special going on. For everything else your old method should work fine.
  19. I'l ask again before you go off. What switch are you trying to toggle.. like, visually. Your post mentions Armament, yet your code reflects countermeasure. Because if it's the Armament-safety your after, throw away all of your shit from the last 10 posts and just try this: Reasoning is simple, Belsim likes using (and we like having them) up/down toggles for switches with multiple positions. So where as most people just assume -1 (or 0) is off, and 1 == on. This actually triggers a "increase positions by one, and decrease by one" under the hood. So you just have to check under the hood... what binds are there, so in clickabledata, not in controls. The ones in controls use the "easy" helper functions. Something you don't want if you want to simulate the full switch. E.g. to get to the line I posted above, my steps where this:
  20. I Do have the Huey, and got some questions about the desired result because i'm lost. Do you want to toggle the Armament-switch (master-arm) , e.g. Brrrrrrrrrrt, switch. Or the one that enables/disables your countermeasures? XM_130 device == Countermeasures box. I'm kind of surprised it actually does something.
  21. The "normal" BF server is hosted in Scandinavia (thought it was Sweden, RIPE says registered in Norway. Can be either). DCS Israel in Germany.
  22. Or at the very least grab a Chuck's guide... there's one page instructions for pretty much every type of system in there.
  23. It's easy. Everyone should be able to get it up and fire at something without to much effort. However, there is a lot added value in learning more about using the aircraft in an effective way against targets that fight back. But to get up the first time and just make a boom at something? Pretty simple. Basically, all you need to fire a 530 at a target is: - Radar On - Master Arm on - Lock on your target by moving the TDC over it and press lock - Hit fire Where the locking part can be troublesome because the radar scans only 12deg vertically, so you have to move it up and down to scan different parts of the air. But if you have an idea where your bandit is, and it is close (10nm) you can use use Special FWD / AFT buttons. Those switch between multiple CloseCombatModes. (basically the mirages version of Boresight/Vertical/Horizontal/everything in HUD scan-modes). Those lock onto everything in range, so all you need to do is hit fire after it locks.. And if you plan on flying online, learn where the IFF switch is (right side of the frame, next to the keypad). This isn't part of auto-cheat-start. Thus everyone knows when a "friendly" is new in the Mirage...
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