CrashO

I've used them a couple of times, pretty handy things for when you want ultra low profile switches (I used them with a laminated sheet over it, like old style alarm panels), or when you are adding 3d printed covers over them (or anything else). Like you noted, you don't solder them, they got some flex in them, so solder would be to brittle. You just stick them down with some tape/plastic. Just make sure to get the pcb pads right for them (follow the datasheet), and get a good finish on your pcb, I've had some bad experiences with these in combination with HASL from cheap chinese suppliers (the 10pcb's for $8 kind), ENIG works great. Regarding the caps, unless you want to buy 5000 at a time, buying them might be an issue. So you might want to get in touch with Snaptron in CO (http://www.snaptron.com/). They shipped me a sample kit with like 12 different kinds and ~20 of each type for free when I asked for one. (they got a ton of them, different kinds of push-forces, shapes, etc, including with holes in it, so you can even stick smd led under it.. :) )

Dropbox poops out if to many people start downloading. When starway came out with his 1.5 texturepack he had the same problem with distribution, dropbox got blocked within 15min every time. wetransfer works pretty good (and more important, fast), although it gets removed after 4 weeks, but might be good for the initial bump to users. And mediafire works fine too, (that what starway uses at the moment). So I would just stick it on mediafire and wetransfer, and let "the community" setup some torrent seeds until it is widely available.

Not if you put it into "Horizon Secours" mode. (on your right side, is a toggle switch you normally put from down into center position, so your backup ADI can uncage). If you put that switch all the way up, your heading tape and HSI will work on magnetic. Great if your INS is corked (or you don't want to spend the time to align). Although you mention it already was in "INS emergency mode", which would be just that. I find it strange that the INS would still be off (besides the usual couple of degrees difference between true and magnetic). While the distance from waypoints would be unusable, the direction of your heading should work properly. And since the TACAN relies on radio, it too shouldn't be influenced by it. So in emergency mode + TACAN, you should have a HSI & Heading tape, that are both displaying the same as your backup compass. And a big fat arrow pointing to your beacon, with proper distance showing.

Just stick the manual in google translate to spanish, or go and watch Revientor's (Spanish) tutorial videos.

Tu devrais poser ta question sur le forum Francais mimi. Ici c'est English only. Your skin is missing some required files. About a year ago the format for skins changed when the "dynamic tail numbers" got introduced. (which is why the skin in your screenshots only has issues around the numbers). My guess would be the skin you are using was created before that. Easiest way to fix it is grab on of the original liveries (for example from DCS\CoreMods\aircraft\M-2000C\Liveries\M-2000C\UAE Air Force ) And copy the empty.dds file from there, and the description file. (and then change the file names to match with your custom skin). You will notice this file has a lot more lines then your "old" outdated one. That should fix your issue.

Have you looked into the "DelanClip" yet? It's intended for Ps3 trackir DIY clones. But there's quite a few people using it as a "trackclip Pro" replacement for their trackIr. Runs at about €35,- delivered and the guy ships from the UK.

If you need 8, i'd spring for a ULN2803. (or one of the dozens of alternatives with pretty much the same footprint). Cost something like 50 cents and has 8 inputs+outputs, and can sink 500mA and control everything up to 50V. Simply hook up the inputs directly onto the arduino, and the outputs to the negative lead of your LED's. 5v on pin 1 for example and the negative lead of a led (with resistor) on pin 18 = light. 0v on pin 1 = no light. Repeat 8 times :D *And hook up 9 to 0V/GND and pin 10 to whatever you stick in your leds before the resistor, like 5V. Saves the pain of soldering a ton of mosfets. And if you stick it on a IC socket or on 2 rows of simple headers, you can replace it if you brake it.

Tiny FYI :smartass: There is no difference between the Nano and Mega, when it comes to the USB part. Both don't support native USB (nano uses a FT232 converter, The Mega R3 uses a Atmega16u2) to send serial communication over USB, thus both require V-USB if you want to make a HID out of them. :D

You need to compile it (easiest would be using Atmel studio). Then load it onto the arduino with a In-Circuit-Programmer (or you can reprogram one of your arduino's and use that as a programmer to program this one). This is not an Arduino sketch that can be loaded on using the Arduino software. It's a "normal" AVR project, designed to run on Arduino hardware. *Edit* If you hop into the "Release" directory you can see "JOYTEST-AUTO_02.hex". That's a precompiled version of the firmware. Load that up to a controller using Atmel Studio (or AVRDUDE) and you should have the demo program. But personally, I hate V-usb (worked with it a lot). With the current prices being as they are, I would go with a full-fledged USB version of the Atmel's (ATmega 32U4) like you can find on the Arduino Pro Micro. I know you want to use the Nano because you have it in front of you and want to get going. But, don't forget you cannot connect over the onboard usb using V-USB. The onboard usb connector from a nano goes through a serial converter chip and only supports Serial Communication. V-Usb runs on 2 digital IO's where it "emulates" usb. So you need to solder on a usb cable/connector and some resistors and diodes before you can start using it. (check the schematic on that site)

Well, it won't pass the integrity check now that texture-mods are verboten. So does it matter?:D

Server is down again, crashed an hour into the session :cry: *edit* Came back after about 15min

Maybe it's time to bump this suggestion again? Still feel like it would make the most future proof sense. Especially when the F-14, F-18 and Harrier join in on the party.

Are you running today's update?

Yeah, look at that massive imbalance My helicopter with troops got splashed twice during the push. And raptor's A-10 at least 3 times. There was plenty of red resistance during the roll. Don't blame reapers for your lagfest.

SimpleRadio is broken. Red & Blue can hear each other again, just tested it with a few different players.