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Everything posted by DeadMeat

  1. I'm told the -1 describes two 3-position switches on the DVADR remote control panel
  2. Alright thanks for the quick reply. Interesting about the DVADR switches. They do look small-ish in pictures, so MS27716-21-1 (1 pole, 3-position version of what you listed) does make sense. Canopy switch - surprised about the locking action. If your memory is correct I suppose it'll actually be the mirrored M type locking - what I mean is momentary in keyway, maintained and locked out of & into opposite keyway, (ON)-OFF<->ON .. I can't find a part number for a round head TW version, but I guess a TL equivalent could be 1TL1-5M (MS24658-31M), disregarding #
  3. Two Three questions for ya, hoping for confirmation on real part numbers , Canopy switch - looks like a TL series -5E (or Eaton/C-H equivalent)? DVADR switches - don't look like regular Honeywell or Eaton switches (no visible red or grey lever seal). Something from another manufacturer or maybe like an AT series style switch without seal? NMSP panel, PTR switch - thought it might be a Honeywell TW series or Eaton 8869xx, but the bat looks off so might be from another manufacturer
  4. For a brand new stick it sounds like you have a warranty issue. Sending it back is probably the only option unless you want to take it apart and mess with it yourself. Unfortunately this is such a specialized switch that there are no direct drop-in replacements outside of maybe a spare part from Thrustmaster.
  5. Change your documentation reference to advanced and look at the output for the master mode selector. You can check the output when you change position with this: void onMasterModeSelectChange(unsigned int newValue) { /* your code here */ } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer masterModeSelectBuffer(0x4614, 0xe000, 13, onMasterModeSelectChange);
  6. I get asked this a lot - no I haven't felt the need to swap 'em but I think it should be possible to do The switch bodies have different diameters so it'll require a bit of dremel and hot glue work to fit but it shouldn't be a big problem. If someone donated a grip to the cause I'd be happy to try it out haha
  7. Agree Nikolas - that's more clear way to put it Didn't mean to imply that there's a mechanical connection from the gear - I agree with carrot that would be a bad solution. Also to be fair there's WoW sensors on all 3 F16 landing gear, but they're connected to different things. For example the right MLG sensor is among other things tied to the FCR, so a fault in that sensor could cause the FCR to transmit on the ground cooking the crew chief or inhibit it from transmitting in the air blinding you if the fault went the other way. Not sure where the physical sensors sit,
  8. Yeah, pretty clear I guess. If you do it in code you can get by with just the MOSFET for controlling power to the solenoid like I described in the other thread. Your Arduino can check for high/low state of a downlock override button directly on a digital pin and in code you just need to check that all WoW outputs from DCS-BIOS are 0.. But no matter - I think it'd be fun to see your solution with chips instead Regarding which wheels to check WoW, "I'm told" that the A10 dash 1 mentions that WoW has to be off the "wheels" in plural to be able to move the landing gear handle up
  9. My unit had the wiring diagram printed right on the side of it. If yours doesn't you will need to find the connections yourself with a multimeter. Basically the thing is just a big switch (or a number of switches in parallel), like a normal toggle switch and you can connect it to DCS like one. I don't know the PSCockpit stuff so can't help you there unfortunately; I used DCS-BIOS.
  10. Back when we came up with adding the WoW parameter to DCS-BIOS based on the gear animation state I used it to control the downlock solenoid on this Tornado landing gear switch. Around page 2 you can see this logic being applied to control the solenoid using a MOSFET. If you prefer, you can skip the physical nand gate and do the logic in code to check for WoW being 0 for all wheels to trigger the solenoid.
  11. I haven't tried it. Most or all mil-spec push buttons and hat switches I've seen actually have polymer buttons and hats, but I certainly get the idea that metal can feel better. In this thread I've focused on upgrading TM switches to their real/realistic counterparts, but feel free to share the results if you try out the cougar swap For reference, check out the specs on the OTTO Controls T4/T5 full size and T4 "mini trim" hat switches..
  12. The madness continues. I have successfully swapped out the Hornet sensor control switch with an OTTO T5-0146 5-way switch: I salvaged the mil-spec switch from a rear seat side handle out of a Tornado fighter bomber I found on EBay. The handle that is: The stock TM switch is very similar in size to the real deal, only the T5 is a bit longer with the terminals and black caulk on the bottom and the T5 hat/crown on top is slightly larger: The TM sensor control switch is easily removed from the face plate but removing the hot glue and pressing i
  13. Sorry, I don't have the rights to make my CMS hat commercially available. I can only provide a link to a viewer of the model here if you want to recreate it. My design fits the #4-40 threaded post version of the OTTO T5. It sits a bit high though but it works. Same goes for the adapter to fit the T5 into the Warthog grip - I can only share a viewer link.
  14. Per NATOPS section there's a down lock but no up lock
  15. Mini trims for the inboard throttle - I used a T4-TCG3312 (tactile version) for MIC switch and T4-CG1112 ("silent" version) for the SOI switch on my Warthog throttle upgrade... Both are in stock on mouser right now. I think the "OTTO version" of the real Mason MIC switch would be a full size T4 (same size as the trim switch on the stick grip), but the T4-T works great.
  16. The rod does go through the spring. Here's a quick video I just shot that may help you. Don't forget the c-clip. Now where did I put mine
  17. Right, the spring is a real pain. It takes some practice but you close up the grip and basically you gotta seat the spring first in the slot and then try to push the lever back on. You have to catch and compress the spring with the lever as you push it in.. Keep at it and you'll get it
  18. Did you connect ground as well? If that's not it, try with different pins or a different switch. Sounds like either a short in the switch you modified or a problem with the UNO
  19. Here's expensive example of a switch that is 4 position, 90 degree index and has continuous rotation. You could also go for a cheaper one, open 'er up and cut out the mechanical stop yourself to make it freely rotate. FWIW I think I read somewhere that the real switch is 8 position, even if only 4 of them are connected. Can't find the reference though.
  20. yea it’s been suggested a few times but I haven’t seen anyone actually do it. Should be fairly easy The Otto T4 trim switch will not fit in the middle position but the stock trim might - but as I recall the diameter of the trim and sensor switch bodies are different so you’ll need to break out the ol’ dremel and hot glue
  21. Sounds like you're in a good position to make whatever you decide work The TK switch may be an option! The price close to the T5, but from what I can tell it is a "tactile" version meaning it is more "clicky" than what I used (think sensor control switch on the Hornet grip) so that should be even nicer. Size wise the body looks to be a bit smaller than the T5 in both depth and diameter? The stock CMS switch is the same size as the MIC switch on the Warthog throttle. It has a loose fit on the stick grip diameter wise but tabs and hot glue holds it in place. Here are so
  22. Regarding wiring, I have updated my original post with a table showing how to match original TMS wires to the terminals on the OTTO switch if you want 1 to 1 wiring. It is pretty simple, on the OTTO switch the terminal opposite the direction you're switching connects to the common "C" terminal. On the TM switch it is the terminal in the same side you're switching. On the picture below, you would connect terminal 3 to C if you press the OTTO right (seen from top of the switch) /away from the camera. If you press the TM switch to the left you connect yellow (common) to black wire.
  23. I can't speak to the quality of other manufacturers' grips (which I think is out of scope for this thread anyways) but if you want a A10/F16 style grip you're probably stuck with TM for now. A replacement TM F16 "viper" grip (identical to the TM warthog grip) is around USD 200 which is maybe more reasonable than going down the OTTO rabbit hole? Certainly easier and less risky. If your grip is within warranty consider filing a claim - otherwise you're left with the option to try and fix problem yourself, contact Thrustmaster support to buy a spare hat switch (if they even carry that) or buy a r
  24. Well you can swap them out for MIL or commercial spec switches (which is not cheap) or you can take the 4-way switches apart and replace the tact switches inside with different ones that have a more tactile feel. It is fiddly solder work to do that but it is much cheaper if you get it right. I tried the tact replacement first using OMRON B3F-1026 (on the throttle mic switch) but the end result was not really much of an improvement. In the end I went full idiot and replaced all of them with OTTOs.
  25. Short update. I've swapped out the rest of the hat switches with OTTO 4-way and 5-way switches. I've used commercial spec switches but they are functionally identical if somewhat cheaper than their mil-spec cousins. Change the "C" to "M" in the part numbers below if you're interested in spending even more (Trim: T4-0016) DMS: T4-CQ1112 TMS: T4-CK1112 CMS: T5-CP1112N (plus 3d printed adapter and hat) The mod is not too difficult. Take the grip apart like usual. The DMS and TMS switches are easy to remove. They pop right out of the fr
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