DeadMeat

Change your documentation reference to advanced and look at the output for the master mode selector. You can check the output when you change position with this: void onMasterModeSelectChange(unsigned int newValue) { /* your code here */ } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer masterModeSelectBuffer(0x4614, 0xe000, 13, onMasterModeSelectChange);

I get asked this a lot - no I haven't felt the need to swap 'em but I think it should be possible to do The switch bodies have different diameters so it'll require a bit of dremel and hot glue work to fit but it shouldn't be a big problem. If someone donated a grip to the cause I'd be happy to try it out haha

Agree Nikolas - that's more clear way to put it Didn't mean to imply that there's a mechanical connection from the gear - I agree with carrot that would be a bad solution. Also to be fair there's WoW sensors on all 3 F16 landing gear, but they're connected to different things. For example the right MLG sensor is among other things tied to the FCR, so a fault in that sensor could cause the FCR to transmit on the ground cooking the crew chief or inhibit it from transmitting in the air blinding you if the fault went the other way. Not sure where the physical sensors sit,

Yeah, pretty clear I guess. If you do it in code you can get by with just the MOSFET for controlling power to the solenoid like I described in the other thread. Your Arduino can check for high/low state of a downlock override button directly on a digital pin and in code you just need to check that all WoW outputs from DCS-BIOS are 0.. But no matter - I think it'd be fun to see your solution with chips instead Regarding which wheels to check WoW, "I'm told" that the A10 dash 1 mentions that WoW has to be off the "wheels" in plural to be able to move the landing gear handle up

My unit had the wiring diagram printed right on the side of it. If yours doesn't you will need to find the connections yourself with a multimeter. Basically the thing is just a big switch (or a number of switches in parallel), like a normal toggle switch and you can connect it to DCS like one. I don't know the PSCockpit stuff so can't help you there unfortunately; I used DCS-BIOS.

Back when we came up with adding the WoW parameter to DCS-BIOS based on the gear animation state I used it to control the downlock solenoid on this Tornado landing gear switch. Around page 2 you can see this logic being applied to control the solenoid using a MOSFET. If you prefer, you can skip the physical nand gate and do the logic in code to check for WoW being 0 for all wheels to trigger the solenoid.

I haven't tried it. Most or all mil-spec push buttons and hat switches I've seen actually have polymer buttons and hats, but I certainly get the idea that metal can feel better. In this thread I've focused on upgrading TM switches to their real/realistic counterparts, but feel free to share the results if you try out the cougar swap For reference, check out the specs on the OTTO Controls T4/T5 full size and T4 "mini trim" hat switches..

The madness continues. I have successfully swapped out the Hornet sensor control switch with an OTTO T5-0146 5-way switch: I salvaged the mil-spec switch from a rear seat side handle out of a Tornado fighter bomber I found on EBay. The handle that is: The stock TM switch is very similar in size to the real deal, only the T5 is a bit longer with the terminals and black caulk on the bottom and the T5 hat/crown on top is slightly larger: The TM sensor control switch is easily removed from the face plate but removing the hot glue and pressing i

Sorry, I don't have the rights to make my CMS hat commercially available. I can only provide a link to a viewer of the model here if you want to recreate it. My design fits the #4-40 threaded post version of the OTTO T5. It sits a bit high though but it works. Same goes for the adapter to fit the T5 into the Warthog grip - I can only share a viewer link.

Per NATOPS section 2.10.1.1 there's a down lock but no up lock

Mini trims for the inboard throttle - I used a T4-TCG3312 (tactile version) for MIC switch and T4-CG1112 ("silent" version) for the SOI switch on my Warthog throttle upgrade... Both are in stock on mouser right now. I think the "OTTO version" of the real Mason MIC switch would be a full size T4 (same size as the trim switch on the stick grip), but the T4-T works great.

The rod does go through the spring. Here's a quick video I just shot that may help you. Don't forget the c-clip. Now where did I put mine

Right, the spring is a real pain. It takes some practice but you close up the grip and basically you gotta seat the spring first in the slot and then try to push the lever back on. You have to catch and compress the spring with the lever as you push it in.. Keep at it and you'll get it

Did you connect ground as well? If that's not it, try with different pins or a different switch. Sounds like either a short in the switch you modified or a problem with the UNO

Here's expensive example of a switch that is 4 position, 90 degree index and has continuous rotation. You could also go for a cheaper one, open 'er up and cut out the mechanical stop yourself to make it freely rotate. FWIW I think I read somewhere that the real switch is 8 position, even if only 4 of them are connected. Can't find the reference though.