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pickafivestring

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Posts posted by pickafivestring

  1. 1 hour ago, imacken said:

    Just reflash the firmware.

    I thought about that, but I keep seeing these YT videos warning against flashing the firmware unless you absolutely have to.  I guess that would be a last resort of sorts.  

     

    The weird thing about this is the button numbers of my throttle in the mode section of the configuration software.  All the pictures in the software document on Virpils' website, and all the YouTube videos, show mode one thru five to be buttons 67 thru 71.  On my throttle, with the current firmware, and less than two months old, mode one thru five, are buttons 68 thru 72.  If I change the buttons back to 67 thru 71, I lose mode one.  What happens in the latter is when the mode one switch is on one, mode two is selected in the configuration software.  When the mode switch is on mode two, then mode three is selected in the configuration software, and so on, until you select mode five on the hardware, then just button 72 gets selected.

     

    I guess I have a talent for mucking things up.....LOL.

     

    Regards,

     

    Tim

  2. 4 hours ago, Double Dutch said:

    hi Tim,

    I just bought one, with stock baseline profile, you mean right after calibrating you safe/export that file/settings?

    Yes.  I wish I had calibrated, and then saved the profile, but I didn't.  Live and learn I guess.  

    • Like 1
  3. I bought a new CM3 throttle this past winter, and I'm just now getting around to setting things up.  As the old saying goes, you don't know, what you don't know.  As I was creating my first couple of profiles, I realized I didn't save the bone stock baseline profile  that shipped with the throttle.  I've somehow lost "mode 1", and I know that if I don't stop now, and reset things to get all five modes back, I'll wish I had, at some point down the road.  

     

    If anyone saved the baseline profile that ships with the CM3, and can post it here, I'd be most appreciative. 🙏

     

    Thanks,

     

    Tim

  4. And just for posterity, and future searchers, I have a VKB Gunfighter, MFG Crosswind, and Virpil CM3, all plugged into a powered USB hub with 7 ports, one fast charge port, it supports USB 3.0, and they work fine.  No issues.

     

     

  5. Well, it was a simple fix for me. My crappy HOTAS couldn't have a big enough deadzone, but the solution was to just jiggle the joystick.

     

     

     

    So, to set BARO hold, I press the button next to BARO, wait for the colon dots to appear, then lightly jiggle the joystick in the climb and descent axis. During the jiggling, you will by necessity, hit a zero input spot, and the BARO hold will kick in.

     

     

    Same technique goes for ATT and HDG.

     

     

    Try it a couple times, and when the A/P catches, you will see that it's pretty easy to replicate. I wish ED would build in a deadzone in the A/P to allow activation without doing this. Most HOTAS's make some noise, and ED could help the situation a bit as a concession to differing levels of HOTAS quality.

     

     

     

    Tim

  6. The "lack" of buttons is solved with "modification button" (the orange ones) that are behind the throttle. It's very useful and I don't use the keeboard except for the view buttons (F1 to F11).

     

    I don't recommend the X56 because of the neutral of the stick which is very weird.

    The T16000 is very precise thanks to the "Hall effect"

     

    So my advice is : T16000+Twcs+rudder (the best price quality ratio) or if you have more money: The Warthog or Virpil or VKB.

     

    In DCS, Rudder pedal is mandotory to fly choppers but not mandatory for airplanes

     

     

    I'm not a fan of "mode" buttons like the orange buttons, but that's just a personal preference.

     

     

    I do agree that the spring center with the X56 is less than optimal, even with three different stiffnesses. The T16000 does the centering better.

     

     

    If they'd make the Warthog with a twist, I'd be in full bore, no questions asked.

     

     

    Tim

  7. The "problem" with the T16000 is the lack of stick buttons and hats, which then relegate you to the keyboard.

     

     

    The X56 has virtually the same number of buttons as the Warthog, but unlike the WH, it has a twist for rudder. This is the one I'm looking at right now, as I don't want' rudder pedals either.

     

     

    Tim

  8. Hello all. I'm wondering about the catapult launch. Usually the speed builds quickly after launch. Lately it seems that it's near stall and barely able to get above 170 KIAS or so. I'm doing nothing different than I used to when it worked perfectly, but perhaps a recent update changed something?? I don't know what info you need but I will try to get it for you.

     

    Has anyone else suddenly had this issue?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Art

     

     

    Sounds to me like your flight model has somehow reverted to "game mode." Changing it back to sim mode should fix it.

     

     

    Tim

  9. You'll get it when it's ready. Someone starts at thread likes this almost every day and I'm getting sick of it.

     

    Hey! My grandpa is on the forum! LOL

     

    BTW, I'll get off your lawn too.

     

     

    Tim

  10. Weapon cycles. Sensor cycles. Other common cycles and toggles.

     

     

    Seriously, not everyone has a Warthog, or a X-56 HOTAS. Not having one of these high end HOTAS setups is a real disadvantage in multiplayer.

     

     

    1] Warthog = Best and fastest way to change sensors and weapons.

     

     

    2] Cycle option = slower than Warthog, but a quality of life option for lower end sticks and HOTAS.

     

     

    3] Current state = worst option, and very slow compared to 1 and 2.

     

     

    Having a cycle/toggle option may not be strictly "realistic", but it would be very desirable. Being able to cycle/toggle does not give an advantage to a player, all it does is lessen the disadvantage of income disparity between the rich, and not so rich, with regard to ability to buy high end equipment. Not everything translates perfectly from real life, to a 2D simulation. It's the small concessions to user friendly options that can take a good aircraft, and make it a great aircraft.

     

     

    I know this has been asked for in the past, and I know the devs have poo pooed it in the past as well, but that doesn't mean people have stopped desiring it.

     

     

    Tim

  11. @SparxOne

     

     

    One thing about you're current joystick. If you do go with the F-18, there are no toggle options to help us out. Because it's "not realistic", you cannot conserve stick buttons by having a sensor cycle option, or a weapon cycle option. Everything, and I mean everything needs its own button. If you don't have a Warthog, or at the minimum a X-56, you are screwed. Plan on a lot of keyboard work then.

     

     

    Tim

  12. Today, Steam has DCS modules at great prices. I buy them on Steam and they install to the Steam game. I'll download the same modules from the DCS website and use the Steam CD codes to install them. If Steam servers get hacked, which would not surprise me at all, I still have my DCS install with the standalone. Like many computer users these days, I use an SSD for my boot drive and programs and a large capacity spinner for storage so a few gigabytes is not much for peace of mind.

     

    So the activation key you get from Steam for a paid module will work on the same module downloaded from the ED website? That's cool. Like most people nowadays, I've got a 1Tb HDD, so doubling up with a Steam version, and a stand alone version isn't a problem.

     

    Thanks for the help guys. I've got tomorrow off, so guess what I'll be doing for the better part of a day?

     

    Tim

  13. So, is this how most people buy the DCS modules, through Steam?

     

    If I ever decide to try out multiplayer, is it better to have a Steam download, or the stand alone version?

     

    Last question. Right now, all I have is a bone stock, unmodified, recently downloaded DCS: World on my computer that I got from the DCS download page(The 6 file download deal that takes forever...LOL). If I go the Steam route, should I uninstall my current DCS: World, and start fresh with all files coming from Steam?

     

    Sorry for the newbish type questions. I really have played filight sims before on PC....LOL. (MSFS going back to FS3.0, Il-2 series, and the original LO:MAC)

     

    Tim

  14. You can buy on steam and use with the standalone... just start installing, purchase, grab licensefrom cd key list, remove, and go about installing it as you normally would...

     

     

    As embarrassing as this sounds, I don't even know what "Steam" is.....:doh:

    I don't game as much as I used to, so I'm kinds out of the loop.

     

    Tim

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