Flying Spanner

I've been to 60,000 feet but was in the jump seat on Concorde :-) @ 680.58 meters/second. When decelerating through Mach 1, engine number 3 tried to select reverse resulting in a precautionary engine shutdown, great fun.

Thanks for your overview, however even from this it does not help me if I wanted to know what to do IF the toggle switch is not moving as required in the DCS Huey sim. The manual is lacking in this respect, it says the toggle will be different and thats it, no real examples for the toggle which is why I think this other thread is so long. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=89226 All the best for the heads up. Also I have four MFD thrustmaster units, two of which I plan to use with monitors like in your recent LCD mod. Thanks for that thread, good photos too.

Just setting up my new Warthog for the Huey and after much head scratching and searching of these threads, I've finally found how to simply turn my Huey de-ice on using a toggle switch with the TARGET interface without having to fiddle with my LUA file which seems to change with each release of DCS anyway (and I just wan't to get and fly the thing without screwing anything up) So take the ERNORM toggle as an example: I have my layers set so I selected D for this low priority function then in the boxes; and on PRESS Event Name: De-Ice ON Key Command using virtual KB: i Type: Pulse Delay: Default Then press ADD EVENT to save the event. Then press ADD EVENT again Event Name: De-Ice OFF Key Command VKB: i Type: Pulse Delay; Default SELECT THE SEQUENCE BOX Then press ADD EVENT Make sure you also have De-Ice OFF set on EROVER Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet at flikin last. Hope this helps someone out. NB I did the same with the main fuel cock but had to set the Type to HOLD just play around with it, it worked for me and very happy now.

Had mine a few weeks now, go with the Warthog perfectly, mind you as I'm more into helicopters, the Komodo controls might be the next purchase.

Sold the X55, now have a Thrustmaster Warthog and MFG Crosswind pedals

OH6 Cayuse AH64 Aérospatiale Puma, Alouette II and Gazelle Bell 47, Kiowa Westland Wessex, Lynx, Seaking, Wasp/Scout. Whirlwind I would buy all of the above if they were full study version modules.

Serial 39851 West Sussex England

I have been flying with my new X55 bought from Dabs a few months ago, the stick has been working fine with only having to apply some silicone grease to the lower shaft to get rid of the sticky feeling when using the lightest spring for flying helicopters in Arma 3 and DCS. I was setting up for a gun run on the bad guys when the gun didn't work at the crucial moment and I ended up a smoking hole in the ground. I checked the setup of the stick in the Rhino programming tool and all the buttons bar the trigger worked when pressing on the stick interface. Should I send it back or open it up? Well someone had a link for taking the base of the flight stick apart, but no mention of how to take just the stick apart, and I figured as I would need to know which wires went to which pin in the connector, I may as well start with the stick and trace the fault down into the base if needed. If I sent it back, I would be grounded for weeks, and the replacement could be just the same so here goes: This is at your own risk and will invalidate your warranty, but at least it will work! Undo the five phillips screws on the side (of the removed stick) then gently pry apart. Note of warning, you don't need to undo the small screws on the base of the stick, and deffo don't undo the screws of the pin connector, it will take a while to put them all back in! I found the black wire going to the trigger micro switch had snapped off the solder tab, the soldering is shocking and I unsoldered all the micro switch wires and resoldered correctly. The rudder pot is inside the stick, not the base, and one of the wires came away in my hand again due to poor soldering, so that too got the treatment followed by some hot glue for security. Button D micro switch was covered in excess hot melt glue (from the factory) which was removed to allow for a better action. Inside, the setup looks fine, but the divvy who put this one together is what has caused the problem and I bet lots of them are like it. I now know my stick at least wont fail now due to crap soldering. I nearly went for the Warthog, but I found it's spring, for me, is way too strong for heli use when I tried my friends one out, if TM brought out a similar easy to swap system like the X55, I would have bought that, come on TM keep up! Saitek quality wise, I like the feel of the stick and now the trigger works again I'm happy with it, but you get what you pay for I suppose. Right where are those little blighters..................GET SOMEEEEEEE