Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About BitMaster

  • Rank
  • Birthday 11/09/1969

Personal Information

  • Flight Simulators
    DCS World stable-beta-alpha; Tom Glancy's Ghost Recon-Wildlands; Battlefield 1; GTA-V, DiRT Rally; Elder Scrolls; World of Warships + Tanks...and a few more
  • Location
  • Interests
    Computers, R/C Flight,
  • Occupation
    Self Employed

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Win10 Defender and multiple Backups in various cloud services and HDD
  2. Start all over and remove the 8GB sticks. Insert ONE of the new kits ONLY in the outlined slots ( 2 and 4 ) and see if that will boot at 2133MHz or 2666MHz. If they do not boot at those speeds then you are out of luck. If they boot, use them for a day or two and see if they BSOD at standard speeds and Volts. Then do the same with the 2nd new kit, remove the 1st one and plug second kit in, proceed as above, do not use XMP yet. If both kits work on their own, try each kit again separatly, apply XMP and see if that works. You can up the Volts to 1.40v if needed, I would try with
  3. +1. Could make a difference with 16GB if you hit the ceiling and need to swap hundreds of MB If you buy new, I would still consider NVMe over Sata SSD, unless you aim for 2 or 4TB where the price difference still hurts somewhat.
  4. Back to the OT, does it pay t split OS and main APPS like DCS, Steam folders and likes. From my point, a slave fixing machines for others, customers and family & friends, yes, it does make sense if the shit hits the fan and you need to reinstall the OS for whatever reason. It is not a mandatory thing but splitting it up can make that much easier if you have to troubleshoot a system. Disconnect the APP drive, only leave the OS active, and you won't by mistake or any other glitch wipe DCS, Steam...or your personal files. I highly recommend not to share the OS drive with important
  5. Not actually correct, it is NOT the amount of modules that matters here but the amount of Ranks. 2 sticks can be as fast as 4 sticks IF the 2 stick setup ( say 2 x 16GB ) consists of DUAL RANK modules, which most older 16GB sticks are. In the past year new IC's have emerged that have double the capacity which means you can get a SINGLE RANK 16GB stick if you don't watch out what you buy. The good thing is, with those new IC's you can now get a 32GB Dual Rank stick and achieve a total of 128GB if needed. So one could get a 2 stick 2 x 32GB DR kit and also keep the door open to add another
  6. I dont have GF Exp installed as well and also suffer this problem on a 24/7/365 PC, which in fact costs me considerable money at the end of the year It used to get fixed by deinstalling GF Exp and unplug any controllers. It's a MS-Nvidia issue they know about for years! That is the bad part, they know it and dont fix it. Never had any sleeping issue with my own Mac or any Mac I have sold & serviced. Apple can do it, cmon MS and Nvidia !
  7. Rare but can happen is that your board did not fully clear the registers when you cleared CMOS/BIOS. I have had boards in that needed Battery, RAM, CPU!! and all the rest taken off and then fire it up, short the pins and put a Quarter or 50€cent coin in the battery tray for 10 minutes. On one of my own boards coupke years back it ~somehow~ got back to life... strange things happen sometimes. Might wanna give that a try, blank board clearing cmos. Happy New Year 2021 & Stay Safe
  8. Nvidia Card + GF Experience and any kind of game controller connected are well known to cause Power Settings to go nuts. Deinstall GF Experience and see if that alone helps, if not, you will have to unplug the controllers and see if that helps. I have the same issue and it sometimes works as planned...and sometimes it just won't go to sleep, regardless if controllers are attached or not. I have no GF Experience installed anymore and over the last year the problem got more serious, it's a hit & miss with this BS OS called Win10. Try to google your pr
  9. Disconnect all Sata drives and try if it boots to the point where it says "No operating system found" and stops. If it does that, one of your drives went bad, connect 1 by 1 then to find which one. It is no bad idea to take all peripherals out of the testing, use as little hardware as possible to see if the error goes away if stripped down to the bare minimum.
  10. https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/16226/complete-guide-to-symbolic-links-symlinks-on-windows-or-linux/
  11. I'd move DCS to the Samsung drive and be done. Apropos Adata... read that article linked in that thread, you might get shocked
  12. Nice ! If I was air cooling I'd likely do the same, cheap & efficient. Heck, one could split the duct ( in CAD ) to blow cold air over RAM, VRM, GPU and CPU.
  13. You should buy the Samsung KIT and not the SSD drive alone. The KIT comes with an EXCELLENT USB-3.0 adapter that I use myself. It's only a few € more but you will get an adapter that is well made and does work as intended. It works with any 2.5" drive, HDD or SSD, that I have tested it with and that have been quite a few over the last years. Check the online offers for the Kit "with" the Adapter included, they are available. * They are called "Starter Kit", those have the USB adapter enclosed, Amazon has them btw.
  14. Disable Messaging in Windows 10 to kill the problem at the root. ...and why can you click anything "Windows" while in the Mirage if you are using fullscreen ? That can only mean non-full-screen mode and won't be solved by turning All Messaging to OFF
  15. You need that to configure it. Check the MS Store, Realtek Audio Console is its name, its a blue icon. At my Mac right now so can't look it up
  • Create New...