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Everything posted by Goblin

  1. I can print the parts for you and send them together with the required hardware. However, I don’t have time for sanding and finishing the parts. You’ll have to do that yourself, or just accept that they look 3D printed.
  2. Ah! See. You wrote swaying back and forth, earlier, so I thought you ment the pendulum motion. That is fixed with new and better links. I tightened the slop you mention by making new brass bushings. I was thinking of drilling out the hole in the L arm to accept a bearing…
  3. There is a pdf i the first set of detents I made. the principle is the same. https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/6e/4f/ef/f6/d2/VPC_MT-50_CM2_Mod.pdf
  4. If you read the rest of the thread, you’ll see that I swapped the plastic linkages for metal ones and used screws and bushings instead of the original pins. That took care of the slack in the rudder motion.
  5. Sorry. I thought you wrote how the brakes should be released, not set. Didn’t understand you.
  6. This is a tricky problem… Yes, moving your head outside the virtual canopy is unrealistic. Stopping the virtual head without stopping the physical head feels unrealistic. I did not like that feature in that other sim..! Thankfully they allowed the user to turn it off. I actually use a harness in my simulator seat. That adds to the immersion and restricts your movement some, making it harder to put your head through the canopy. Maybe if ED added virtual limits that are slightly generous, so you can move just outside the canopy, but not too far. That way nobody could cheat and we who try to stop by ourselves won’t feel restricted.
  7. Here’s a thread about how I solved the tightness and increased the spring force of the brakes.
  8. Not sure what you mean by ”not working”. The brakes or the description..? That description is not how the parkbrake works. It’s the opposite. To set parkingbrake, hold the rudderpedal brakes down and pull and hold the park brake handle and then release the pedals. To release the parkbrake, just press the rudderpedal brakes down and the park brake handle pops in.
  9. The plunger doesn’t ride the plastic in my designs. There are M3 screws that interact with the plungers.
  10. I haven’t found suitable dampers for the brakes, so I did the next best thing and swapped the springs. I don’t have any parts, besides the ones I’m using myself. But the only parts you need to make are the aluminium brackets for the footrests. The rest you can get on ebay.
  11. Here’s the original thread.
  12. Yeah, I just wanted to let you know so you won’t have to deal with a disgruntled buyer. I saved my F-22 Pro and F-16 TQS so I could convert them to digital sensors and USB one day. But that hasn’t happened, yet...
  13. According to RealSim, the TUSBA only works with the F-16 Cougar TQS, which is a newer product than the one you are offering.
  14. I still have my F-22 Pro and F-16 TQS, with the digital chip upgrades... However, the TUSBA only works with the Cougar TQS, not this one,
  15. Thank you, but as you can see from the post above, I figured it out.
  16. Update. I changed the setup on my VPC Throttle. Earlier I had two buttons set up. One when the throttle reached 0% and another button when leaving 0%. I thought I could set this up as one button for shut off and the other as start, but I couldn’t get it to work. Now the throttle generates a button press (on-off) when reaching 0% and that’s all I need now when I mapped that button to HOTAS cut off.
  17. Thanks, @illern! I have tried binding the controls to buttons, to test the function. But what I really want is to do what you have done and use the throttle lever. I have a VPC CM3 Throttle, and while I have been able to set it up with buttons for moving the throttle axis to zero, I can’t get it to function as I want it to. I am able to control the same function in the Hornet, but not the Viggen. I will test some more, based on your findings.
  18. Made some other modifications. I have swapped the plastic rod end bearings with metal ones. They are now held in place by M5 screws and brass bushings. The screw and nut squeeze the bushings towards the ball in the rod end, keeping it snug. I also swapped the ball joint on the toe brake mod I did earlier. It had a small gap that caused a clicking noise when applying brakes. These rod ends are tighter and the entire rudder pedal and toe brake assembly is now completely free from any play in the mechanism.
  19. I think I have tested all combinations of those commands and I just can’t get it to work...
  20. Then it is as @hazzer wrote, you don’t have the same problem I had.
  21. Thanks, @Flappie As long as HB is aware, they can fix it
  22. Well, @Golden.Crown wrote: I just tried to help...
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