snafup
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Posts posted by snafup
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US Air Force to keep the ugly, deadly, and uniquely capable A-10 in the air
US Air Force to keep the ugly, deadly, and uniquely capable A-10 in the air through 2022
Still keeps on going.:thumbup:
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I have owned games for a very long time. Especially games that require serial numbers and other items to be tracked. The bonus to steam is that you no longer have to track all of these and steam can detect errors in your install with a click of a button. Mess up a mod? Didn't use JSGME? Delete the corrupted folder and verify integrity via steam. It will download only the necessary files. With one button click you eliminate install issues from the series of things to check when something goes wrong.
I would never NOT use steam for games unless it was absolutely necessary. Which a few of my games are that way. Rfactor 2, a racing sim, just went steam. Best thing that ever happened. All updates, all items, updated and tracked by steam instead of the user.
Why do more work than necessary?
Same thing as repair dcs world.
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If you have it on steam, and it is very recommended to do so, then verify integrity of game cache. If not then you will have to do more research as to why this happens.
What? Recommended to do so? Where?
Here's a link for a10c mission you can install your self. and they are free.
http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/?arrFilter_pf[filetype]=&arrFilter_pf[gameversion]=&arrFilter_pf[filelang]=&arrFilter_pf[aircraft]=60&arrFilter_DATE_CREATE_1_DAYS_TO_BACK=&CREATED_BY=&sort_by_order=TIMESTAMP_X_DESC&LICENCE_FREE=yes&set_filter=Filter
Get your game from eagle dynamics.
http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/downloads/world/stable/
then install the a10c module into it.
There is a repair game button in the programs folder that checks for bad or missing files.( this is if you already have it installed).
this is what i see when i hit training, then a10c in modules
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Hi,
You made need to bring the sensitivity down a bit in your pedals. I had to introduce a dead zone and change my curves so they were not so touchy.
If you do an outside view on the tarmac and engage nose wheel steering you can move the pedals and see how much travel you get both ways.
i also had a habit of overcompensating one way then the other oscillating over the runway.
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Its a good gimmick. Like monster cables for better"signal".
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Hi,
Does the dcs a10c show up in your installed module page?
You can go to dcs world and download the module separately.(http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/downloads/modules/dcs_a10c_warthog/ ) Once it is "installed" then you can activate it from your module manager,using the installed screen. You have to log in to get that to work.
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Hi,
There is a module manager in dcs world.It lets you download and activate different modules into dcs world.There is an account login at the top of the right corner that lets you get into you DCS account. Your serial from steam will be fine in the standalone. That's what i did. I recently did a new build and reactivated my modules by logging into the module screen.
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I finally went ahead and built a new rig. Best thing I've done for myself in a while.
New Specs:
CPU: I7 5930 oc to 4.4ghz
board: rampage 5 extreme x99
ram: 16gb gskill ripjaws ddr4-3000
GPU: Asus gtx 980 strix
Cooling: corsair h110i gt
case: phanteks enthoo pro
OS drive:Intel 750 ssd 400 gb pcie nvme
ssd: samsung 850 evo 1TB
psu: Corsair ax 1200i
sound: asus sonar dx
Os: Windows 7 professional 64
The only thing i haven't upgraded yet is the monitor. I'm still using my 1920 X 1200 samsung sync master 2443 bw( 60MHZ 5ms).
The previous specs:
CPU: I7 920 oc to 3.6ghz (couldn't get any higher and stay stable)
board: rampage 3 extreme
ram: 12gb mismatched ram
GPU: 2 amd 6970 crossfire
Cooling:
Cooler Master - Hyper 212 Plus
case: antec P182
OS drive:vertex 120 gb ssd
psu: Corsair ax 1200i
sound: asus sonar dx
Os: Windows 7 professional 64
I couldn't get above 60 fps on the ground parked with this one, and it got lower if i looked around down to 20fps.Normally 20 to 30 in the air.
The new on with everything on hits 120 sitting, and a 60 to 70 in the air.
I've limited the fps to 60 fps to avoid stuttering and tearing and the game is butter smooth. It is still amazing if i down sample from 2560X1620 for a sharper experience.(only problem is it does this for all monitors on the card, so if you have one for mfcd you have to be careful as the screen size will change)
With the cooling in place the CPU sits at 30 Celsius idle. I haven't seen it get above 60 in game play.
The fans gpu doesn't even turn on till it hits about 60 and i haven't seen that reach past 69 while gaming.
It is a lot quieter and cooler than the hot 920 and hotter 6970"s.
The only thing i might change is replacing the case fans with 4 pin ones so i can ramp them down when not in use.
I spent a lot of time trying to optimize the game to get playable rates. Upgrading sure did that for me.:thumbup:
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rtfm
hi,
i read the ....... manual.
It's all good. figured it out.
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hi, I'm going to be making a new system from the cpu up and i was wondering what the correct steps are to ensure i dont screw up my installs. I have 2 modules installed now, dcs 10c and huey. Do i need to deactivate them first?
(and how do you do that) and will i lose all my stats? or is that stored on the dcs server?
and if i deactivate it and then reactivate it on my new system, will it need the keys again?
Thanks
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Janes f-15
janes ah64d longbow
janes longbow2
janes ah64d longbow gold
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Cannot manage to make ground textures or cockpit to work while aircraft skins work perfectly, can someone explain the steps for mustang's shader for example?
this is for mustangs terrain,i made the file structure in a folder i called mustangs terrain, in the_MOD folder, and unzipped the terrain modes into the vfxtexture folder. and i copied the high lua into the config/terrain folder.
the folders in the vfx texture folder are just the un zipped files.They unzip in their own folders.I do it this way.
1._MOD folder
2.ADD Mustang Terrain folder in _MOD folder
3.ADD Two folders in Mustang Terrain folder---Bazar and Config
4.In Bazar Folder:add Terrain Folder---In Terrain folder:add vfstextures folder-----Put All land textures in here
5.In Config folder:add terrain folder---copy high lua here
You can see the difference with it off and on, in jsgme.
Hope this helps in some way.
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So, could someone please specify: Is this a problem just I (and maybe some others) have or is it simply not possible?
Hi,
This isn't a problem for me, i just did it once in target. When i reboot it stays off.
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Hi,
I had to do this after some wires got pinched off after i re greased it.
i actually found it was easier to re grease the ball, put it together like it would be on the base, wrap the new wire in heat shrink, with the ground wire, thread this through the ball from underneath,(avoids the possibility of it getting pinched again) re solder the pin connector and screw it back in, then attach it to the board.The biggest part was remembering where each wire connected to the pin connector.I did it one at a time.
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Trim is not used to set your trajectory. It's used to make your arms hurt less while flying by relieving the stress of having to hold the cyclic in whatever position you need to for whatever you are doing.
I've got bad wrists and a TM warthog. The spring pressure on the joystick can be a bit much for me at times. To keep myself comfortable, I trim whenever I find myself holding the joystick constantly off center. This allows me to recenter the joystick, and use the minimum about of joystick input to continue my current path.
There are a lot of vitriolic arguments over the proper way to trim. Some of these arguments may have merit in real helicopters. As far as DCS is concerned though, trim your helicopter in whatever way makes you happy and comfortable. Do it a lot, do it rarely, do whatever works for you.
You should try an extension. It will take a lot of stress of your wrists and make the movements smoother. I built one using the gardenia hose repair kit route and about 5 dollars of pvc pipe connections.
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Follow up:
After looking around a bit on the web I mustered up the courage to disassemble my joystick base. Once I had removed all components (mind you, I disassembled the base more than once), I found the fairly obvious culprit. (Apologies for the dreadful kitchen paper)
The red and black wires somehow had come undone, which resulted in my stick not functioning. In a way I was happy that the issue was something so obvious, because at least I could attempt to fix it.
So I went out and got myself a soldering iron, and with some patience managed to solder the black and red wires back to their intended locations. Were it not for this thread over at SimHQ though, I would never have known where red went, and where black went (fair enough, there's only two possibilities, but trial and error is overrated).
In any case, after reassembling the stick (then noticing I had done a boo-boo, disassembling and again reassembling the stick) it turns out the contact is now ok again. I haven't subjected the stick to a heavy duty work-out yet, so I'm not absolutely positive yet on how the soldering will hold up (cross my fingers, knock on wood, I'm not the best of solderers).
To chime in here: I loved it since the second I got it. The issue I just encountered, as far as I'm concerned, was just a bump in the road. If my fix holds up, I'll be happily flying with one of the sticks on the market. Thing though is, when I bought it, there wasn't really much direct competition. There were no similar offerings from Logitech or Saitek and I didn't really want to get a CH product. Comparing the Warthog to my previous joystick, an X52, I must say the build quality, ruggedness (heh, irony) but most of all precision are a very welcome improvement.
-Z
This can be a problem if you go to re grease it also.Its tight in there with tiny wires that get cut easily. I rewired mine using the extra wires from a ps2 wire i was using for an extension, and heat wrapping it all. I'm not worried about a warranty issue as it's way past that point now.
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finally
Actually, I meant a pic like this. I wanted to see what folders were inside the Horse of War mod foder.This one picture in this thread was what made all the difference with me figuring out jsgme.It finally showed exactly how the file structure should look in the _mod folder. One minute i was frustrated the next i was ecstatic. I went crazy fixing all the broken structures i had.One rep to you.
thanks cichilfan.:thumbup:
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Gee...this is making me wonder if I want to buy this stick....Im coming back in to the hobby after a long absence so have missed out on a lot of the comments and problems related to the TM Warthog. Someone please convince me I should buy one or go another route!
Go ahead, you know you wanna.:thumbup:
I have # 139 from the plant and haven't had any issues. Like almost anything there are good copies and not so good copies.
You can convince yourself of anything if you read too many forums. People like it, people don't.Some people like Canons, some like Nikon.
Get a rudder while you're at it and start flying.
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I have the Oculus Rift DK2 and it does add a huge amount of depth and movement perception. To put it into context; it adds so much to DCS that my inner ear expected movement on turns and it gave me vertigo.
Concerning extensions; I wonder if anyone can explain how using a stick extension is necessary when the axis setup will allow you to emulate a longer stick. I don't dispute the use of an extension, but I am curious about the benefits.
Hi,
the benefit for me was easier movement of stick.I don't get wrist fatigue from the strong spring action like i used to. Sticktion is also a non issue with the extension.Once i re greased and added the extension it was another stick altogether. I don't fight the stick anymore.
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Two things are missing in flying a sim, any sim atm... that of the "flying by the seat of the pants" and accurate depth perception.
hardware wise, its in the quality of stick being used, bearing in mind most desktop sticks are way shorter than their rl counterpart,... meaning a small movement on the dt stick equals a largish movement on a long in sim stick. So , what you do, is just learn to use to guide the stick using only your finger tips (the MS FB stick was great for this)
You need to learn how to trim for level flight properly (this involves throttle setting and flap setting, for getting it right), with the refuel flap open before getting anywhere near the refueller.
Nice and gentle will get you a lot further than trying to adjust for the gyrations, when on connection... the hard part is getting it into the slot first
I wonder if using the oculus rift makes any difference with this.
The large extension sure made a difference in regards to more precise movements.
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Hi,
After reading this i just had to try a refuel after not doing one in a couple of months.
Man, it is tough. I got through it but finding the sweet spot took a bit, with multiple hookups and releases.
I put my own extension on recently and the movements are smoother with less porpoising and side to side. I have never used curves or dead zones and i do fine for my setup.
It can frustrate the life out of you. You are a rock behind the tanker right up to the point of hook up then you seem to suddenly go spastic.
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It's a beast.
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Hi,
Thanks for the replies. i made the print screen take the screenshots again and it works fine.
thanks
Tiblisi irl
in DCS: A-10C Warthog
Posted
Watching a show video about the anatov an-22 and lo and behold they landed at tiblisi.
Got some screen grabs that i'm sure you'll recognize.
the three fuel tanks are right where you'd expect them, and the lake after takeoff.
really good job on the game from eagle dynamics, even saw the smoke rising from a stack.