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mr_mojo97

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Posts posted by mr_mojo97

  1. I've had my jetseat for years and it's been amazing until I recently built a new pc.  After installing everything again I can't get it to load when when boot up DCS as it keeps crashing. I can quit the app and then manually load SSA.  It seems like DCS can't see SSA .exe anymore or something.  Any ideas?  Should there be a SSA folder in Saved Games?

     

    Thanks

  2. Looking great.

     

    I’ve been trying different ideas for being able to quickly swap between helos and planes by keeping the spring attached at the rear and simply removing the spring at the front. Obviously I’ll make a new thread in order not clutter yours and post some pics there.

     

    Also, did you manage to get your website or Facebook page up and running?

  3. Ok, I’ve not been on DCS and therefore used PointCTRL for a few weeks and now it’s not working.

     

    I was fiddling with an Arduino recently and was changing com ports here and there so I don’t know if I’ve done something there or not.

     

    I’ve been back to try and re-set everything back up without luck. I change the port (only 1 of the 9 available turns green), press the number 2 button and it will not connect.

     

    For a while Windows gave me a message that the device was not recognised but this no longer happens. Plugging it into my Star.com powered hub, the USB port light comes on briefly then goes off - I’ve tried many different USB ports.

     

    In device manager it says Device Descriptor request failed (code 43).

     

    The PointCTRL HMD has a red light (is it supposed to have a green light as well?)

     

    Hope anyone can help.

     

    Thanks

  4. Seems that lack calibration.

     

    "Save settings to device" and to a cold reset (unplug and plug USB cable), after open "VKB Joy Tester" (button in lower task bar) and test the axis.

     

    Since you have ticked "Auto calibration" leave the pot in middle of course before plug again, if leave in "0" (~0v) no variation will be detected.

     

     

     

     

    Ok, I figured out what I was doing - I was using the numbers on the micro pro board itself rather than the numbers on the diagram for the MCU ports. So pots and buttons work as they should.

     

    Now, I need to figure out how to get my A3144 hall sensors working properly in configurator. they're either 3/4 on or fully on like in the second picture. Any ideas? Cheers

    1.jpg.2d666217d7184183f22a160782832d3f.jpg

    2.jpg.8f293003e0096c815d9c689d4b72781e.jpg

  5. Ok, so we're getting somewhere now. Firmware is installed and I can get buttons installed and working but my pots are not responding. In know the pots work as I had them working with an Arduino sketch.

     

    I've set Source as IntSensor, MCU port as A1 and assignment as X as in in the picture.

     

     

    Any ideas? Thanks

    1.thumb.jpg.0ab75c00e26398d8023d45818db9317c.jpg

  6. Another problem I'm afraid. COM is lit green and all the boxes are filled out correctly, I get the cmd screen and the command prompt Connecting to programmer and then nothing.

    I get this at the cmd prompt now!!

     

     

     

    avrdude.exe: ser_open(): can't open device "\\.\COM5": The system cannot find the file specified.

     

    avrdude.exe: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail

     

    C:\Users\Les\Documents\MMJoy2\v20160822\JoyLoader_arduino>pause

    Press any key to continue . . .

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Any ideas?

    Cheers

  7. Nice one. I’ve seen this drawing before, not sure how it works with the arduino micro board but I imagine it’s similar inputs.

     

    So I found some 3144 hall sensors in box of bits too. So it looks like I’ll be ready to start soon.

     

    Is there much of a difference between using the shift register and button matrix? Is one better than the other? And finally what kind of pcb would you suggest?

    Thanks

  8. Hi all, so I've got myself a new project for my week off next week.

     

    I've been using my Lynx collective through a Bodnar X board for the last couple of years without any issue although the jig I use is a bit cumbersome as I also have a small table that has my Warthog throttle screwed and both need swapped regularly. Anyways, I'm thinking of attaching my collective to my Merlin heli seat which means miniaturizing the electronics and making a new fold-able jig.

     

     

     

    So I've got myself an arduino micro pro, some neodymium magnets and some hall sensors and am going to do it through MMJoy2. Now thing thing is I have no idea where to start. Lol

     

    Do I need resistors - if so what kind? The collective has the original military buttons and switches and I was going to add a few more generic switches, buttons including encoders for radios etc if that's any help. My current axis is through a potentiometer so would like to make this a hall sensor.

     

    What would you suggest I read, watch first to get me going. My electrical knowledge is very, very limited by the way. I can solder but that's about it at the moment. Looking for some guidance. TIA chaps

  9. Why on earth would you be worried about it? IIRC ED originally had a contract with the US ANG which was for the A-10C Suite 3. After some years the ANG then requested an update to the Suite 5 or whatever. So ED didn't have the authority to build a module that was outwith their contract.

    That's why they are keeping the legacy version. So if people already own the original but don't want to upgrade they can without issue. It just means you can't buy the original, but you'll be getting it for free with the new version. Everyone's a winner.

  10. Pilot body just gets in the way for me so I end up leaving it disabled. Would be interesting to have it automatically move the pilot leg or something depending on where you look or where the cursor is, but that would probably be something outside the scope of what the current DCS engine can do.

     

     

    This is a great idea actually, although I'd prefer just for it to quickly fade to maybe 85% transparency or something until the cursor moves away. I'm sure the DCS engine should be able to support that no problem. I'm sure even one of the brilliant modders here would be able to do it as well.

  11. With the slew mod and the warthog joystick base now, I’d say you’d probably get 180 for it now. Or you could try selling them separately. You’ll prob get 40-50 for the base alone. And 120-130 for the throttle with slew

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