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Everything posted by PiedDroit

  1. You should post a short track of your turn, SU-25T is quite nimble when empty. Empty, you should easily reach 400 knots, which is 730 in the HUD (airspeed displayed is in km/h, not knots). If you struggle to reach 500 (I assume km/h), I'd check the throttle axis. Even loaded it goes to 500 without too much a struggle (except with extreme load maybe, however it is much harder to maneuver once loaded). By any chance are you using an A/B detent? That could be the issue. You can display the controls (RCtl+Enter if I'm not mistaken), to see if throttle goes to the max.
  2. Hehe in my case I'll need to upgrade both systems, mine and hers - double the price :D The image is collimated to a higher distance which means you’ll need some kind of correction. Glasses or lenses
  3. I sincerely apologize about this very bad joke :poster_oops: Anyway I'd be curious to know what a F-45 is.
  4. It's not *that* bad - I might have exaggerated a bit :music_whistling: Annoying enough to make we write a code snippet for it. Which in retrospect, is not an event that has a huge threshold to trigger - I'm a bit "trigger happy" on that. I retested it, the jitter, spans on something like 0.4% of the range (i.e. it would oscillate between x and x+250 at worse, on the -32767,32767 range), only at certain positions. Still distracting for me as this is sufficent to make the zoom flicker. p.s.: the slider is the only axis with the potentiometer, throttle levers should not suffer this kind of issues as they use HAL sensors.
  5. Flickering is so bad on mine that I had to use some hysteresis code in my TARGET profile to remove it :D With LEDs off
  6. I don't think they can sustain it, if so, no supercruise. The definition has 3 aspect, which are quite subjective : 1- sustained (I'd assume level flight for more than just several minutes) 2- useful load (just 2 heaters can be deemed as useful load depending on the mission) 3- efficiency (how much is efficient ? an A/B that is light on fuel consumption can still be considered as efficient I guess)
  7. Still useful for others ;) For a physical stop I guess one could also build a customized plastic disk that is smaller than the default one. Of better/easier, wrap some foam around the "neck" of the gimbal part so it hits the "collar" sooner (mmm, I might do that actually, that will act as a damper). I personaly prefer not hitting the physical stop at all as I don't want to accidentaly break the gimbal part due to repeated shocks (using 15 cm extension).
  8. I just answered a similar (and old) post in another thread as I thought the info is useful: You can limit the stick input necessary to get full deflection by reducing the saturation X value in DCS axis tuning. This is also doable with TARGET software. No need to cut your extension, you can have a long extension and a short throw at the same time alright.
  9. You can simply reduce the saturation X value in the axis tuning in DCS instead of cutting your extension ;) Also doable with TARGET software.
  10. Check this thread, it will partially answer your question (rift or wait): https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=180204 (title has an exclamation mark but it's actually a question)
  11. My guess is F-45A kestrel. Fantasy aircraft. Not sure how it relates to the topic though
  12. Don't worry, now you know the weakness you'll make sure to avoid breaking it ;) Mine is 4 yrs and still in super good shape despite multiple disassemblings. Not many users are breaking their stick, even those who tinker a lot with it (well, based on how many people talk about the WH on the forums). Good stuff ! I'll be interested to see your replacement parts.
  13. I cant check the video right now but this is not normal (2 cm play) . There can be 2 possibilites, one is that there is something broken. Other is that the rubber gasket moved out of place and prevents the pressure plate to work on its full range. On my WH I glued the gasket to the pressure plate because it became lose and wouldnt stay in place. This rubber gasket is located between the cup (gimbal part if you wil) and the pressure plate.
  14. If you don't put strength it should be alright ;) The piece that holds the magnet has a rectangular shape and insert into that small ball with a rectangular hole on top.This insertion takes the twisting torque from what I understand. I need to double check on that it's been a while I went this far. I didnt see the broken piece but I would assume it is the magnet support that breaks.
  15. if you hold the stick firmly (ie prevent twist) while tightening the nut it should be alright, the gimbal will not turn further than allowed by the stick-to-gimbal connection that has a special shape. Also very tight fit is not necessary, this is not a motorcycle engine. As soon as you hit the tightening point, add a little and no more. If the stick lossens a bit while flying then no big deal, just lightly tighten it again. Many people seem to believe it can take abuse but this is not true, be gentle! It is qualified as robust because it will keep it's tightness for years and not wear easily. Of course if you handle it like if it was made of steel you will damage it. In that sense the reviews are misleading, people who don't overtighten just don't mention it because it might feel normal to them. P. S. : if worried about tightness, maybe add a tiny amount of teflon tape so vibrations don't loosen the assembly- never tried it but worth a shot? Mine has 4 years, I disassembled it completely once, partially numerous times, tried two types of extensions and disassembled each at least 4 times, modded it for reduced resistance, it can take it. The tightening issue is also the reason why I didn't like the extension in the shape of simple threaded tube and prefered the one with a nut and shaped connectors, that retained the initial interlocking design of the stick-to-gimbal connector. On the subject of the broken part, it is very unfortunate that users are not warned enough about this issue, that part is fragile and any WH user should be aware of it... I hope the OP will get a replacement part soon (3D print maybe ?).
  16. I tried 3 monitors, but the extra width isn't worth it IMO, the sides gets badly distorted (with 1 camera) or misaligned (3 cameras, that will also eat FPS). Bezels are very distracting too, I was never able to ignore them. Depends on people I guess. I went with ultrawide monitor and ditched the 3 monitors, the little extra width is all that's needed and also other games benefit from it.
  17. Check the autoupdate.cfg file in your game folder, it contains the version information.
  18. Lol I'm pretty sure I had tried that but I must have missed it. If it works, good tip :megalol:
  19. I had the same, issue, created a support ticket and got it removed from the list of my modules within 40 minutes. It is still listed in the list of modules on the DCS shop, but doesn't show up anymore in the game.
  20. Don't worry there will be no jump, it might feel like a jump because when in the deadzone it will be 0 then it will suddenly start to increase, but that increase will really start at 0. I agree hw deadzone seems a bit more accurate than a 1% deadzone in DCS. Maybe instead of using a deadzone you could try a shallow curve (like 5)? You can even use deadzone and curve at the same time, the deadzone will make sure your stick stays centered and the curve will make the first increase softer. I suggest you experiment with the axis tune in DCS. And yes I like it better so far (with hw deadzone disabled) but I need to test it more.
  21. Move your upper body as well. Not ideal but allows to check further behind. Leaning a bit on the opposite side helps making that movement when the hands are busy. Dogfighting in the rift is quite a workout ;)
  22. I didn't say it had the same accuracy (between hw deadzone vs. 1% deadzone in DCS), I'm just saying that instead of toggling hw deadzone on or off depending on the aircraft, you could also leave it disabled (and calibrate the stick of course) and add (or not) 1% deadzone in DCS depending on the aircraft.
  23. the deadzone won't make a sudden 300 input, it will start at 0, if you look at the curve you will see what I mean (just play with the deadzone slider in DCS). The DCS axis tune translates stick input into game input, the curve shows the stick input on the horizontal axis and the game input on the vertical axis.
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