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Everything posted by walternowi

  1. The lift lines are very useful when you perform an out-of-plane maneuver. If your lift vector is: 1) pointing at the bandit, you are performing pure pursuit; 2) pointing in front of the bogey, you are performing lead pursuit (cutting inside the bandit's circle); 3) pointing behind the bandit, you are performing lag pursuit (maintaining energy and rear quarter position). Hope this is useful. :) One other thing, I found that once you have TrackIR, you don't reading need lift lines to help situation awareness.
  2. Ironhand, That is a great advice. I have to try trimming more. As always, you have my utmost respect! S! Nowi
  3. Look at the output row, the numbers: +12V1@18A, +12V2@18A, +12V3@15A mean that the power supply has 3 12V rails. The first two can each support a max current of 18A and the third supports a max current of 15A. The currents are not additive, the power supply CANNOT support a current of (18+18+15=51A). IMHO, it is better to get a power supply with 1 strong 12V rail (30+A). This PC Power & Cooling http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817703001 offers extremely high quality and high efficiency. When you shop for power supply, the wattage is sometimes misleading. A cheapo one that says 500 W may be rated at that wattage at a temperature of 15C. Under operating conditions, the temperature can easily go beyond 30C. At real operating temperature, the cheapo one may be good for 350 W. You cannot go wrong with brands like PC Power & Cooling, Fortron, Seasonic, Enermax and Zippy. I believe the OCZ PSUs are manufactured by Fortron. Regarding an overclockable CPU, the FX's have an unlocked multiplier. You can easily overclock just the CPU without tempering with the motherboard or the memory. The 64's multiplier is locked upwards (you can only decrease the multiplier). IMHO, the only advantage of a 4000+ is a 12x multiplier. Since you are getting a nice motherboard that supports a high FSB, a 11x multiplier as in a 3700+ should work fine too. In my experience, the San Diego cores with 1 MB L2 Cache run hotter than the Venice cores (512 MB L2 Cache). That is also something to take into consideration when overclocking.
  4. I am with NEODARK on this ;). My Opteron 146 is not a particularly good one, and it is currently running at 2.5 GHz at 1.33 V. With better cooling, I can run it at 2.8 GHz at 1.45 V. That is an FX-57 at the price of a Athlon64 3200+. :beer:
  5. These are excellent specs. Raidmax is not quite known for their heat sink fan. To be safe, I would suggest 1. the Thermalright SI-120 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835109123 with a panaflo 120 mm fan http://www.jab-tech.com/Panaflo-120mm-L1A-FBA12G12L1A-pr-2686.html, 2. the Thermalright XP-90C http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermalright-XP-90C-Copper-Heatsink-pr-2836.html with a Panaflo 92 mm fan http://www.jab-tech.com/Panaflo-M1A-92x92x25mm-case-fan-pr-2044.html, or 3. the Zalman 9500 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835118223 #3 is the simplest, the fan comes with the Heat Sink. Also, lose the air conditioner, it is useless. You might want to look into cooling for your video card(s). A Zalman VF-900 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835118001 or An Arctic Cooling Accelero X2 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835186002 are possibilities. Since your system is top notch, get the Rolls Royce of computer cases, the Silverstone TJ-07 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811163057. It comes in silver or black. :beer:
  6. FYI, the SATA drives do not use molex power connectors. They use SATA power connectors. I believe most modern power supplies will have 4 of these. Good luck! It sure is exciting to put together the specs and build it yourself.
  7. The AM2 picture is very dynamic. The notes you read might be superceded, as the latest shows a 5-10% improvement in AM2 http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets/showdoc.aspx?i=2738. But still, it is only marginal improvement. Like NEODARK said, the Conroe previews are all very promising. It seems AMD's leap will be 2007. If you can wait, wait for Conroe. If you want to buy now, socket 939 is a mature technology that will not go away any time soon. Nowi
  8. No problem. You might want to know that the AM2 architecture is marginally faster than 939. If you want to look into phase change cooling, OCZ is going to release an entry level system (MSRP $300-400) soon. How soon is anybody's guess. Check here for updates http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=85243. This unit is designed by Chilly1 (a well respected member at xtremesystems). You can also contact him directly. He build custom phase change units for people, but the wait is generally a couple of months. With phase change, you get a large overclocking headroom, but the penalty is a high electricity bill. $3500 is more than enough to build a top of the line system, get a very nice monitor and all the gadgets (HOTAS+TrackIR+Touchscreen). Start from the motherboard and CPU first. If you do not plan to overclock, get the high end dual core cpu like the FX-60 or the X2 4800. Also, you don't need fancy cooling if you do not plan to OC. High end air cooling like a Zalman 9500, a Thermaltake Big Typhoon, a Thermalright XP-90C or a Thermalright SI-120 is more than adequate. If you plan to OC, the 4 air cool solutions are good for moderate overclocks. To push the limit, you need to go liquid, thermalelectric or phase. The good overclocking dual core CPUs are Opteron 165, Opteron 170 and the early 2006 X2 3800+ (The stepping LDBHE 060x, with x < 5 are usually good). Cheers, Nowi
  9. Hitman, I have 3 suggestions: 1. Do not get the DFI Expert motherboard. There are quite a number of reports that it killed the CPU http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=94324. An $800 CPU is not something to trivial with. I would recommend the ASUS A8N32-SLI http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813131568 or the MSI Diamond Plus http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813130037. 2. Like NEODARK said, get a better power supply. His recommendation is good. So are the Seasonic S-12 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817151024 and the Enermax http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817103437. Personally, I like the Enermax because I prefer one strong 12V rail. 3. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT get the Zalman water cooling kit. It mixes Copper (CPU block) and Aluminum (GPU block, radiator, ...) and will cause galvanic corrosion. The Al pieces will slowly be eaten away. Anodizing Al will protect the Al surface somewhat, but one small scratch and you are screwed. The anti-corrosion additive helps but is not fool proof. Also, this kit is more for quiet computing rather than overclocking. Without a fan, the radiator is not very efficient in dissipating heat. If you really like water cooling, do some research in the Liquid Cooling forum here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70 and build your own. If you must get a kit, get the Swiftech Apex Extreme (with the Storm CPU block) or the Corsair Nautilus500. The former is pretty hard to find. You might find it from ebay. The latter is just being released. The previews are good but you might want to wait a bit for reviews to come out. Also, the Corsair kit uses an anodized Al radiator. Swapping it with a Cu/brass radiator should not be too difficult. Something like a Swiftech MCR http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR-Quiet-Power-Series-radiators-120mm-Black-pr-3070.html or a Black Ice Pro http://www.jab-tech.com/Black-Ice-Pro-Radiator-120mm-1-2-Fittings-pr-2632.html will do the job. Hope this helps and good luck with your build. Nowi
  10. Look at Ironhand's reply and my reply in this thread http://forum.lockon.ru/showthread.php?t=14307 You can also download Ironhand's training tracks at http://flankertraining.com/ironhand/news.html He had 2 tutorials that teaches missile evasion, one against AIM-120 (Look under Air-to-Air, for Lock On Version 1.01) and another one against SAMS (Look under Suppression of Air Defenses, for FC 1.11).
  11. Try the avsforum at http://www.avsforum.com/. I recently retired the little TV that I bought in college and bought a plasma EDTV. The difference is between night and day!
  12. 1. Su-33: Beautiful looking carrier plane, and a joy to fly in FC. 2. Me-262: The first operational jet, beautiful machine and the ride of my favorite pilot (see my avatar). 3. FW-190: A beast of a fighter, fast, heavily armed and also the ride in which my favorite pilot achieve 200+ kills. Nowi
  13. Oh my! I am glad that everyone make it! A landing that you can walk off of the plane is a good one, a landing that you can walk off of and reuse the plane is a great one.
  14. Evil, Welcome back. Glad your exile is over. SilentWarrior, Sorry to hijack your thread.
  15. I think your specs barely meet the minimum requirements for Lock On. Remember the Falcon 4 graphics engine is more than 5 years old. Hey, I could run F4 just fine with my old Athlon XP 2200+, but I have to set everything to minimum for Lock On. On the other hand, the updated rig in my signature runs Lock On just fine. At a minimum, you need 1 Gig of memory. You might want to upgrade or wait a bit for Conroe or AM2. Nowi
  16. Evil, Sorry to see you go. You have been very helpful, especially in the Technical Discussion Forum. Good luck my friend. You will be sorely missed. Nowi
  17. 23rd_S, I see you are asking about watercooling over at the IL-2 forum. IMHO, the best source of information regarding water cooling is the XtremeSystems Water Cooling Forum. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70 Do spend the time and read all the stickies. That is a very good guide for beginners. Their take is NOT to buy a kit but assemble the system piece by piece. I am doing a little bit of research in this area. I would like to water cool my rig and really push my Opteron 146. :beer: Nowi
  18. If you do not overclock, get 2 x 1 Gb with low latency: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820227210 You can still overclock with this, but you have to loosen the timing. Mine can maintain the default 2-3-2-5 timing up to about 210 MHz. If you plan to overclock, get 2 x 1 GB of DDR500: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820227066 This allows you to scale your FSB up to 250 Mhz without having to use the memory divider. I see you have an FX-60 cpu, the multiplier is unlocked both ways. You can get the low latency memory, keep the FSB close to 200 MHz and adjust the multiplier upwards. However, this does not allow you to fine tune the CPU frequency. Hope this helps.
  19. There is a way around that for ATI cards. Use ATI Tray Tool instead of the Control Panel or Catalyst Control Panel. Define a profile for Flaming Cliffs and force triple buffering with V-Sych. When I look up at the sky, I could get 100+ fps, that is more than the refresh rate (85 Hz) of my CRT. You can get ATI Tray Tool here http://downloads.guru3d.com/download.php?det=733
  20. With AMD Socket AM-2 and Intel Conroe just around the corner, AGP video card support is coming to the end. I would advise you not to spend $300 on an AGP video card (7800GS). Either: 1. Get something cheap that beats your current card, 2. Upgrade to a socket 939 setup, or 3. Suck it up and wait 1 - 1.5 years (6 - 9 months for release and 6 more months for the infancy problems to be resolved) for AM-2 or Conroe. My money is on choices 2 or 3. Hope this helps. Nowi
  21. For dual video cards, the ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe Motherboard suggested by Evil is an excellent choice. http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?masterid=12808886&search=asus+a8n32&op[]=topcat,1,99 I think the MSI Diamond Plus in your first post is good too. I have the MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum and am very happy with it. It is supposedly one of the best AGP (yes, I am still using AGP :( ) motherboards. For single video card, these 2 are solid motherboards: ASUS A8N-E http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813131530 and the DFI Lanparty Ultra-D http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813136152 If you have time, read the motherboard buying guide linked here: http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=29&threadid=1639727&enterthread=y Like bflagg said, get PC4000 (DDR500) memory. Personally, I like the OCZ 2Gb kit. With rebate, it is under $180, a great deal. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820227066
  22. Juan, That is the DFI Expert board. Look at the discussions here. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=91970&highlight=expert I would advise you to stay away from that one. Cheers, Nowi
  23. Evil, I believe the diamond plus board is also 32x for sli. http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=29&threadid=1801794&enterthread=y I concur with you that the ASUS is also a solid choice. However, I would not recommend the DFI Expert. I read that quite a few people experienced problems with this board. Cheers, Nowi
  24. Juan, Your choices are very good. Make sure you pick up a good power supply. Seasonic, Enermax, OCZ and PC Power Cooling sell good ones. Nowi
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