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Posts posted by scrtagnt69

  1. Exil,


    my issue seeems not to be the same. I am talking about the LATERAL trim. i.e. "left wing down"/"right wing down" assignement in controls. This is set up in the correct way, controller is working for other aircraft but the gazelle (as it works for example with Mirage 2000). AFAIK there are 2 ways of trimming the Gazelle:

    1. nose up/down (which works fine for me despite the thread you quote)

    2. left/right (i.e. helo would roll to the left or right) = in fact change direction as it is then in a turn; this does not work for me anymore

    mag brake and main trim (T) are on.


    Am I doing something wrong? Is lateral(roll) trim not working anymore in general? (I am not talking about some kind of "rudder trim"!)

    DCS repair is done, same behaviour; Easy controls on/off does not have any effect on that.



    Could we get an answer please same issue here and nothing has changed.

  2. I'd just rather not bother flying at all.

    There are many Flight "Games" out there that don't require relearning. You learn, you fly, you have fun ... albeit .. A Game !


    I'll just wait a few more months until the dust settles, then I'll fly again.

    Until then, DCS is dead to me.


    WORD !

  3. So here we go with the Collective Axis tuning.




    What I achieved is a little more precision around the spot where it is possible to make the Huey light on the skids (keep in mind this will change with loadout! So When the UH-1H is at 20% fuel and very agile, you pull the collective and quickly reach the point where it rises.

    If at 80% fuel and 4 Miniguns you will pull around 1/3rd of the axis travel before it so much as moves...


    important is to keep the axis as straight as possible in the upper 2/3rd regime!!! You may vary the little bump on the low end, though. It's basically reducing the "wasted" travel until the bird moves, still no "jumps", but a smooth yet quick rise.


    A general advise less is more, so start with small values.


    :thumbup: Thanks !

  4. Flagrum, what you say may well be true as regards FFB devices, but non-force feedback sticks behave differently. With those, you just trim the chopper and your stick (and curve) center moves to the trim point, i.e. makes it a new center zero point. So yeah, you can actually use curves pretty effectively if your stick is a non-FFB device.


    Now there's been lots of talk as regards JS curves, but personally, you couldn't make me give up mine if you held a gun to my head. This run-of-the-mill non-FFB stick I use is twitchy and short-throw (they all are) and thus has absolutely NOTHING to do with how a real chopper cyclic feels, behaves and responds (and there's no force trim either). A case in point for curves is myself flying the UH-1H; I actually only started to develop some effective muscle memory (and overall skills like hovering) _after_ finding good curve settings for the JS and pedals both, because their near-center behaviour now seems to mimic a longer-throw device pretty well when doing small corrections. And oh yes, I trim a lot too - you have to, especially when using curves!


    So I really don't think there's a single answer to this, because the outcome depends on multiple factors such as personal physique and JS model. You just have to experiment and see what suits you best IMO.


    Would it be possible to see your collective settings ?

  5. Haven't loaded DCS in a long time, but in the real H the symbol in the annunciator window is telling you which way to turn the adjustment knob, either toward the cross or circle.


    When properly synchronised the window should display the blank area between the cross and the circle.


    The HSBC should indicate within 2 degrees of each other and within 10 degrees of the standby compass.


    - Bear


    Correct if either one of the symbols are showing then it is desynchronised.

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