metalnwood

I am guessing that you are scrolling to the right as far as it can go in the controllers? Like others I have many, right now I have 10 connected, all showing. I have never needed to do anything to show more than eight, they just appear. left mfd right mfd lower mfd icp stick virpil throttle collective other panel honeycomb throttle rudders

I don't think the basic mounting systems that come with winwing or others have in mind that they would assemble nicely how you want. They give you a basic way to mount to something and you will have to have that something in the right place to do it. Often you may end up with various odd lengths of things bolted on to other things so that you can finally get it in about the right place. I use 8040 and 4040 for my basic frame but have more than one oddly placed piece just so that there is something in a point in space that I can mount something else. At least with 8020 profile you can do that and i think the monster tech is based on that so you at least have something you can hang things off. Here is a pic of how i have a panel in about the same place as you are talking about and what i had to do to get it there.

Nice! Which kiwi group are you flying with? You are the first I know over here to get one. I had another friend who got scared off and changed his order to a bsb the chicken as he had already done the 5k and 8k.

OK, so sounds like they are not broken, just not working as expected which is good. Having said that, I assume that if you go in to windows controllers, click on the stick you can see it has smooth movements that are not spiking all over the place? The only time I has seen behaviour like this is when I had other devices that dcs has automatically mapped to roll/trim, e.g. rudder brakes, some new button box you plugged in that has an analog axis in its firmware that you dont know about etc. So I would start by removing all usb controllers other than the stick as a quick way to see if something else is giving you roll/pitch inputs.

I certainly liked motion with flight and if I had two motion platforms then no doubt I would have motion on both. My issue, was more to do with which rig to put the motion on. There were a few things in my decision - I race more than I fly these days. Racing is a more intense than flying and motion integrates with that feeling better. It was already mounted to my racing rig and would require upgrades to flying rig to put motion on there. If I was still flying and racing on the same rig I would use motion on both. Don't let me put you off, my decisions are based on circumstances rather than if motion was good or not with flight.

I didnt have mine when I first commented but now I do. I don't find them too bad and not night and day difference from the TM MFD's. I was worried reading this that they would be very mushy but I dont find them to be like that at all.

I think you were confusing his question, which is easy to do with similarly named tools. OpenXR Toolkit, the other day introduced an update that fixes the motion reprojection problem. I think you were referring to the microsoft tool. Are you using this? https://mbucchia.github.io/OpenXR-Toolkit/

if you look in the log as you were before, if it says openxr then it worked and you are using the native openxr. You could run the updater by itself when you need to update.

They arrived today and from various pics around it was apparent this may have required a little more work than it actually did. By mounting the UFC/HUD directly to the 8040 but then using the mounting clamps for the side mfd's I was able to get them in a position that much better matched the VR cockpit and I wasnt having any issues reaching forward for the knobs and getting the correct ones. It does feel like I have to reach a little further forward than they appear in VR but that can be solved if I want. I was planning to cut various pieces of 8040 to directly mount the mds to but the clamps in this orientation seem to work well. It was apparent from before they arrive that with the UFC/HUD on the 8040 the lower mfd would not align well enough. Some longer m5 bolts using nuts as spacer replacements brought it out. To this point, less work than I thought and unless I really need some placement finetuning in VR I think I can leave it like this

When I got more in to developing the racing side I found I had to address some seating issues to make sure my older back was going to last the long haul. My seat ended up reasonably reclined as well as very low in my 8040 rig. This was quite good for most things in flight until I got my collective and found it was going to be quite difficult to mount in a good way. A combination of how my seat was mounted, where the actuator was and where the collective needed to be mounted. This was what got me back to building a dedicated flight rig again and that let me start using things like my TM MFD's which there was not room to mount on the racing/flying rig. It has also allowed me to add on other things dedicated for flight that I couldnt otherwise have. If I was only using my rudder pedals/throttle/stick I would have kept the rigs together as one and used motion for both but now I have the freedom to add the winwing mip, go back to an extension on my stick, other panels etc. For those extra things I am happy to give up motion, it didnt deliver for me in flight what it does for racing. On my combo rig it only took a couple mins to swap to rudders and stick, it was a good compromise and I really dont see any advantages oging separate if you only want to fly with hotas and rudders - with one exception and ymmv - if you want to use leap or even hand controllers it can be a bit of a pita or even impossible if your racing rig is a bit cramped and you need to virtually interact with the cockpit but the wheel mount is in the way etc. Ah, I just saw your pic, mine was very similar although I had center mount, and it was all well - until the collective... As well as mounting the collective I would have had to develop something for quick change between that and throttle etc.. So now I am on this, the throttle slies on 8040 to the side and back depending on using the throttle or collective. The mount of the collective drops about 100mm to store under the throttle - and the throttle is not too far to the seide all its buttons can still be used. I do have to add back tactile though, its all on the racing rig and I dont want to steal anything from that, its set up too nice there Summary, yhe TLDR is that the more dedicated flight panels you want the harder it is.

I used to have a dedicated flight rig and a dedicated racing rig. When i got motion (sfx100 3dof) i decided i had to put them together in one rig so i could use motion on both of them. I did that for a while but after a bit of time I thought I was missing out on having an ideal setup. This was not because of motion but because of inevitable compromises with a rig I used for both racing and flying. Long story short, I went back to two rigs and I dont have motion on my flight sim. I find that on my racing sim it delivers a lot but on my flight sim it delivers a lot less. I think the best things about ti were takeoff/landing. Landing on a carrier especially with an active seatbelt was cool. I soon got rid of using a belt in flight though as it restricted movement too much in VR. Other effects that are of some benefit can also be done with much cheaper tactile transducers, they are never a bad investment as even if you went to motion in the future they complement themselves very well . I know you don't have the same issues as far as dual rig, so best I can help is to say that I am in a similar boat to you. I could spend the $ but is it worth it? It is for racing but I just havnet got around to adding motion also on my flight rig as I am not sure its worth the investment/return on our $$ category. If money was less of an issue and I could get a big enough 6dof to hold my rig then yes, I would do motion.

Thanks for confirming, I thought i was right but at the same time was thinking that if they are selling this solution it wouldn't just rely on you clamping down on those plastic bracket as hard as you could to stop it all from rotating. Mine should arrive in the next couple of days so I can play around with it, I have a lot of spare 8040 about and will just be patient thinking how I go about doing it. I since saw a monster tech one and that is much along the lines of how I was thinking to do it so that I get as much adjustability as I want to try and make them line up in VR.

I saw this diagram for one mounting solution for the MIP. I know that if you use its clamps the UFC, MFDS's have 2 bolts attached to the clamps allowing you to change the angle but also to remove a single pivot point so they dont rotate. This solution uses only one through the UFC mount (1) and one through the MFD mount (2). This should work fine if indeed there was a solid connection where I circled with a question mark. From what I see in the manuals the HUD component and the MFD may touch but they are not bolted together so it looks like you are relying on really clamping the plastic mounts on to the 8040 so things don't rotate easily, which doesnt seem ideal. Now, if you use two holes to mount the UFC and MFD to the 8040 you are forced to change the angle more upward facing and I am not sure if the HUD and MFD will align properly? Can anyone help here? Thx

I actually stuck mine on the inside because I can confidently go quickly to just inside the mfd without worry of touching a wrong button - but it sounds like with the winwing you wont accidentally press it like you might on the TM one if you go in fast. Anyhow, with them on the inside I go in with my index, ring and middle finger together trying to place my middle finger on the middle bump. I can 100% of the time do this right away. from there I know my middle finger is on top of the middle button and other fingers are on top of the ones either side. If I need a very outer button I move one of the outside fingers to the outer bump that is on top that button. Sounds like more work than it is when you are used to it but I find it very fast .

Then it wouldnt be any good My assumption was that it would close the button contacts before the tactile switch clicked, like any hack it may or may not work well. Edit - ah, but as i look again, it wont work at all as the tactile switch will stop the conductive part of the rubber making contact. to activate the switch.