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Crawling Chaos

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About Crawling Chaos

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  • Birthday 04/10/1975

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  1. In my case, the movement is smooth, but there is a HUGE deadzone. It might need a stiffer spring. Crawling Chaos
  2. Yes. In fact I finished the retrofit and I am trying to find time to share it in a topic of my own. Well, I am still struggling with its deadzone, bu as I said, I don't have much time to spend debugging it. But it may have mechanical issues, as pointed by Debolestis. Crawling Chaos
  3. Oh, now I got it. Yes, the right side is gated. Mine is drilled to work with an analog thumbstick. They can be swapped easily, since they share the same footprint. I don't know how it is in the SFS. Crawling Chaos
  4. Hi Zhutwo, in your pictures, the castle and coolie are swaped. In the F15, the coolie hat is placed on the rigth side and the castle is placed on the left side. Crawling Chaos
  5. I made a video of a test of my Suncom F15e retrofit. Although the video is very poor, it shows the X, Y, Z and rZ axis functioning. I think now is time to start putting things together. I can post future steps here, on this tread, or create my own. What do you think, debolestis? Do you mind?
  6. Debolestis, I finished the retrofit of the Suncom pots. I done slightly different from the original DocFlyer recipe. I kept the upper metal plate of the pot (the face with two holes and the shaft slot) and used two layers of plastic sheet, for I do not found one tick enough to fill the gap between the magnet housing and the plastic encasing. It seems to work quite alright. Crawling Chaos
  7. Now I see the encoders as button presses, is it correct? Crawling Chaos
  8. That is odd. I realy started this retrofit in 2016, but I downloaded it again about a month ago. I may have mixed the folders, then. I will try the last version and post the results. Crawling Chaos
  9. Hello, debolestis I worked further in my Suncom retrofit and decided to add two pots for throttle and three encoders for axis trimming. As the encoders have central buttons on it, I used an additional row in my button matrix to make them work (it seems practical to me to make these buttons act as resets for the trimmers). In this process, I have encountered two issues: 1 - The thumbstick amplifier (upper red mini breadboard) didn't work for me. I don't know if the opamp or the thumbstick itself was damaged. So, I hooked the thumbstick directly in the MCP3208, but the signal is quite
  10. Things were working very well, until I tried to connect a PS3 thumbstick. First, the amplitude of the thumbstick axis are very short and I might need an amplifier. Second, when I setted the PS3 thumbstick as the second hat (assigning axis to buttons), things went odd. All hat actions became latched and corresponding button icons remained lit until next reset. I do not know how to proceed further in this matter, so I would appreciate any advice. Crawling Chaos
  11. First approach to MMJoy2 Suncom retrofit. Crawling Chaos
  12. I will use MmJoy2. So I think is MCP3208, then. Crawling Chaos
  13. Nice! Seems it can be mounted in the Suncom base with little effort. Quick question: will an ADS1115 module replace a MCP3208 (besides the channel number). I can't find my MCPs and the ADS is cheaper. Crawling Chaos
  14. Or spliced to a cutted Suncom stem! Edit: Found six A1321!
  15. Well, back in 2016, when we first spoke about my Suncom mods in another forum, you recommended me to use an "extension box". I think I am going in that direction, with a aluminum box underneath the Suncom base. This may even give me enough room to mount the springs inside the box. The set will be taller, but also heavier and more stable. But first I will try DocFlyer pots retrofit with hall or angle sensors in the already dismantled flight controller. With the mechanics ready, I will plan the electronics. I must unbox all the old stuff I bought back in 2016 and see what I already have. Wi
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