No1sonuk

That's a tricky one, but I'd suggest trying Inputs and outputs first.

That's actually got a decent photo that could be used to model and 3D print attachments for normal buttons.

This part of the forum is pretty much ALL gauge builders, and you'll get more of a response in a separate thread because people skip threads they're not interested in. It's entirely possible someone out there knows the answer to your question, but isn't reading this topic. It would also make it easier for others to find the info later. Unless you're one of those annoying people who delete their posts after getting the info they want...

You should probably create your own new topic so more people could see your question.

Agreed. Though I've not had much trouble driving one or two 9g servos from a Nano - they don't tend to be pulling hard when used in gauges. I may have just been lucky.

I made a device to speed up the process of figuring out the end points. I just made a thread here: As for "Shouldn't everybody's servo numbers be the same": Yes... Assuming they all used the exact same servo. Different servos require subtly different times.

Not sure if here is the right place for this, but here goes: I thought I'd share a device I've made for quickly working out the servo times for gauge positions. I don't have photos of mine at the moment because I made it on breadboard and dismantled it when I was done. Here's the schematic: Here's the Arduino Code: /* Servo calibration program * Designed to be used to determine the times of servo pulses for setting up * flight simulator gauges. * * Pin assignments are for Arduino Nano. Other arduinos my work without modifying * the code, b

I've found that when I used EC11s, I needed 0.1uF capacitors from the signal lines to ground to kill noise spikes.

544 and 2400 are the number of microseconds (us) for the 0 and full travel positions. The DCS servo commands take their numbers and "map" them to the servo range you've given, then send that out to the servo. 544 and 2400 are "safe defaults" that shouldn't overdrive most servos. So, if the full range of the DCS numbers were 0 to 90, when the DCS number was zero, the servo would be set for 544us. If it was90, the servo would be set for 2400 us. What you need to do is determine the us numbers for your servos' 0 and full travel points, then put those into the servo commands. BUT, you

Looks like it's intended for making it easier to daisy-chain the gnd connections so only one is needed on the driver board.

All good points. I milled mine from a solid piece of cutting board. I don't use one when milling PCBs for exactly the reason you stated - the dust. And who the hell is operating one of these machines when they're not wearing safety glasses?!? Not to mention the ABEK filtered respirator when using a laser. As for the last comment: Vacuuming alone may not be enough as it doesn't have the cooling effect blowing directed air does.

I'd set up a standalone unit to test this. Just put only the servo drive part in and don't connect anything else. If you have too much hanging off the arduino's power supply, it could cause problems. If it works fine in that configuration, try using an external 5V supply with the other setup.

I seem to remember, you have to put the servo.h include BEFORE the DCSBIOS.h include. I think some of the libraries only work properly if they go in before DCSBios.

Check it's not on a different com port. I have had at least one instance where it used a different com port when in programming mode. Also, for future reference, avoid using pins D0 and D1 unless you have to, and if you do, make sure they're either not connected when you try to program the board, or are on "pull-down" switches that are in the OFF position. This is because those two lines are the serial RX0 and TX0 that are used for programming - the pin numbers may vary with other devices, but avoid RX0 and TX0 if you can.

I set my pitch and yaw mapping so that 0-40 degree head movement turns 0-180 in-game. As for the P-51 fuel gauges, I cheated :