No1sonuk

I'm not sure. I was commenting on your "pre-made USB boards" generalisation. As for Bodnar boards: I don't know about that particular one. I have a BU0836A I've been trying out.

Leo Bodnar boards are "pre-made USB boards" and have potentiometer, rotary encoder, and even hall effect sensor compatibility. And the analogue channel ADC resolution is 4 times that of an Arduino (12-bit instead of 10-bit).

It would be a waste if you didn't To paraphrase Edison: You don't fail. You find many ways that don't work.

If all you're running from that Arduino is the switches, you can run them individually - analogue pins can be used as digital I/O

I'm not going for a realistic cockpit myself - just a bit more than a "button box", so the smaller size is fine. My wheels are about 50mm across, so the same mechanism would fit a realistic size cockpit - IF the potentiometer position was moved to the opposite side of the wheel. I just have standard ones. Besides, the 2-stage geared reduction is convenient for the size reduction, so might as well save some cash on what would undoubtedly be a more expensive pot.

One of my "challenge pieces" has been the P51 trim system. I decided to have a go at it after seeing a video on Youtube where someone used a potentiometer, rather than a rotary encoder. The DCS-BIOS implementation of the P51 trim system is buggy to the extent I gave up on it, so this video was an eye-opener. I could bypass DCS-BIOS entirely by using an analogue channel. These are the 4 main considerations: 1) The Handwheel does 2 complete turns - 1 full turn each way 2) The display needle rotates only about 60 degrees. 3) The potentiometer can turn a maximum of 270 degrees.

There's always one of these. It plugs into the Bodnar board and breaks out the matrix to individual switch wires, with the diodes already installed. http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=274

It's fine if your printer and filament are exactly the same as that used for the settings in the G-code. If it's not the same, you might get some difference in quality, etc., but it may still work.

And once you get it working (or even before), you should add a "previous state check" so that it doesn't send the state unless it's different to the previous value. This cuts processing and data transmission time. So what I wrote becomes: void readSwitch() { //creates the function to read the switch states sensorValue = analogRead(analogInPin); //read the analog pin the switches are connected to state = map(sensorValue, 0, 600, 0, 6); // Format is "map(value, fromLow, fromHigh, toLow, toHigh)" if (state != previousState){ // Check state is "not equal to" previousState

Having written the part below about mapping, I noticed two problems with your code: 1: The readSwitch function isn't called in your loop(), so you're not reading the switch. 2: There's a space between "readSwitch" and "()". "readSwitch ()" should be "readSwitch()". Try fixing those and see if it works. Now on to what I was originally going to post: Are you trying to make a multi-position switch into a potentiometer? Assuming a linear distribution of your switch numbers, you could probably reduce most of that code by using the map function. e.g. void readSwi

Why 100% infill?

The beginning of the Arduino code says either "#define DCSBIOS_DEFAULT_SERIAL" or "#define DCSBIOS_IRQ_SERIAL". I don't know exactly what it does, but sometimes one works better than the other.

If the topics get split, it makes it harder for people looking for oblique answers. e.g. If you split the A-10 and F18, you get division, and some techniques used for one which might be useful for another will be missed.

If it's showing as connected, it might be your arduino code. Sometimes switching between "default" and "IRQ" types fixes issues. Sometimes it's because the "include" for DCS-BIOS wasn't the last one added. Sometimes people miss a silly error that makes an infinite loop of apathy.

Mine could be wired to work like the real ones - in fact, that was how I first tested it without DCS or an Arduino. However, that doesn't do anything to the onscreen indicator, so I came up with this. The only real ones I have are a slightly different version, but they're scrap ones I removed when replacing them.