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F-86 Auto bomb release


bilbosmeggins

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Having a few issues getting the bombs to release consistently in the auto mode. Can anyone tell me what is the EXACT sequence of button presses and releases. I’ve had a look at a few YouTube videos, but what is on there is very scant.

 

I’m currently entering a dive with the electrical cage button held. Then getting the pipper lined up, then holding the weapon release. Then it all gets a bit hazy..... I’ve had releases by loosing the weapon release first AND by releasing the cage button first. But most times I just get a wasted pass, and no release.

 

On the videos I’ve watched, it is suggested that it is supposed to release automatically, and the reticle disappears momentarily, although it never seems to do that for me. Any suggestions?

 

Edit: Just looked at Chuck’s guide (Keep forgetting that I should check there first), and the process is outlined there, so I shall have a good blast in the morning with my new-found knowledge. What I did notice was that Chuck’s Guide said to set Weapons Mode to Sight Camera Radar, which makes sense to me. What does not make sense, is that the official training mission specifically states to set it to Gun. And the videos I’ve watched also have it set to Gun. Wonder if it actually makes any difference?


Edited by bilbosmeggins
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The official training mode is wrong. I spent hours trying to figure out why I wasn't getting the bombs to release no matter how carefully I flew.

 

Also, something I found out is that if you want to "force" the bombs to release, you can quickly release the electrical cage button, then press it again. If you are flying at less than 1g (which is when the computer should release the bombs automatically), the bombs will come off. It's not accurate, but if you're in a situation where you can't afford the luxury to go around and try to hit the target again, it's a decent workaround.

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I did figure it out, and actually its pretty straight forward, and works every time for me, as long as I am being a good pilot.

 

Note that there are two electrical cage/uncage buttons that can be bound. One of them is for something called LABS, and you do *not* use that for normal bombing. Find the other electrical uncage button and bind it to some kind of button press on your hotas.

 

Here is the process as I use it:

 

1. set the controls for bombs, auto release. That is straight out of the manual. After I did that a few times I reliezed that its just three settings, 1,2,3 each time. Quick and done.

 

2. Ungage the mechanical sight cage level. (move it to the right if its not already there)

 

Now, we get to the secret sauce. It really isn't hard, and it makes intuitive sense after you do it a few times.

 

3. Press the electrical cage button. (Remember, NOT the labs cage/uncage). This will disconnect the pipper and it will just be centered straigt ahead.

 

4. Best to put on airbrakes, and engine throttled back.

 

5. Aim the plane at the target, all while holding in the electrical cage button.

 

6. When you have a good bead on the target, and while keeping the electrical cage held in, press and hold bomb release.

 

7. so at this point you are holding both buttons in. You can release the electrical cage as soon as you've held in the bomb release. ****At the instant you release the cage button****, that is where the "computer" will take for your desired aim point.

 

8. So now you are descending, with the bomb release button held in.

 

9. Now, it's important to understand, that the "computer" is only going to release the bombs if you have your plane aimed at the target such that the targeting solution is valid. They suggest something like 30 degrees to 45 degress dive.

 

SAID ANOTHER WAY... you can go through all teh steps above, and if at the last minute you aren't within "shooting parameters" (basically, have the pipper aimed at where it was when you released the electrical uncage button and a speed and angle that works for the "computer")... then the bomb will not release.

 

This makes sense doesn't it?

 

Note that I think this probably accounts for people saying the bomb won't release. I set up a practice mission and once I broke the "code" I was able to drop it every time I was a good pilot. When I was off, no release.

 

Try it. It will work.


Edited by flameoutme
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I did figure it out, and actually its pretty straight forward, and works every time for me, as long as I am being a good pilot.

 

Note that there are two electrical cage/uncage buttons that can be bound. One of them is for something called LABS, and you do *not* use that for normal bombing. Find the other electrical uncage button and bind it to some kind of button press on your hotas.

 

Here is the process as I use it:

 

1. set the controls for bombs, auto release. That is straight out of the manual. After I did that a few times I reliezed that its just three settings, 1,2,3 each time. Quick and done.

 

2. Ungage the mechanical sight cage level. (move it to the right if its not already there)

 

Now, we get to the secret sauce. It really isn't hard, and it makes intuitive sense after you do it a few times.

 

3. Press the electrical cage button. (Remember, NOT the labs cage/uncage). This will disconnect the pipper and it will just be centered straigt ahead.

 

4. Best to put on airbrakes, and engine throttled back.

 

5. Aim the plane at the target, all while holding in the electrical cage button.

 

6. When you have a good bead on the target, and while keeping the electrical cage held in, press and hold bomb release.

 

7. so at this point you are holding both buttons in. You can release the electrical cage as soon as you've held in the bomb release. ****At the instant you release the cage button****, that is where the "computer" will take for your desired aim point.

 

8. So now you are descending, with the bomb release button held in.

 

9. Now, it's important to understand, that the "computer" is only going to release the bombs if you have your plane aimed at the target such that the targeting solution is valid. They suggest something like 30 degrees to 45 degress dive.

 

SAID ANOTHER WAY... you can go through all teh steps above, and if at the last minute you aren't within "shooting parameters" (basically, have the pipper aimed at where it was when you released the electrical uncage button and a speed and angle that works for the "computer")... then the bomb will not release.

 

This makes sense doesn't it?

 

Note that I think this probably accounts for people saying the bomb won't release. I set up a practice mission and once I broke the "code" I was able to drop it every time I was a good pilot. When I was off, no release.

 

Try it. It will work.

 

Thank you very much for your detailed run-through. That does seem to tie in pretty closely with the Chuck’s guide. I haven’t had a chance to fire up DCS yet, but I’ll give this a bash as soon as I do.

 

When I was playing the training mission yesterday, it took me so long to take out the first target, that I actually ran out of fuel just as the second part of the mission was getting underway, lol. I’m expecting much success later. Well, it couldn’t be any worse could it? :lol:

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I never got it to work reliably, but I tried it now once more after reading this thread (haven't flown the sabre for ... well, years now).

 

 

At first, it was like it always was: unreliable. In only 1-2 of 10 run-ins I was able to get an auto release. Then I sat down and started thinking ... and I think, "I got it" now.

 

 

 

I think, the key factor here are the sight gyros. If I banked over to get my nose down at the target, it usually did not work. But if you do it exactly how it is worded in the manual, push the stick forward to get into a dive, it works much better.

 

 

 

My theory is now, that smoothnes is of utmost importance. If you jink the stick, roll the aircraft around and do all kind of "extreme" maneuvers, the gyros get upset. Maybe the system already senses the "below 1 G" criteria already while you are still trying to get your nose down and haven't yet consented to the weapon release. Or maybe the gyros just get out of whack in general.

 

 

If I now push the nose geeeeeeently over, don't have to jink left and right to get my pipper placed correctly, then I usually get a release - and I get the bombs even quite close to my aim point!

 

 

 

Perhaps even banking over to get into a dive might work - I would need to experiment more here. But if it works, I would assume that the whole maneuver needs to be very smooth. And probably will require a few seconds to keep the pipper steady to allow the gyros to "re-align"(?).

 

 

Just my 2 ct - maybe something to ponder about.

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I never got it to work reliably, but I tried it now once more after reading this thread (haven't flown the sabre for ... well, years now).

 

 

At first, it was like it always was: unreliable. In only 1-2 of 10 run-ins I was able to get an auto release. Then I sat down and started thinking ... and I think, "I got it" now.

 

 

 

I think, the key factor here are the sight gyros. If I banked over to get my nose down at the target, it usually did not work. But if you do it exactly how it is worded in the manual, push the stick forward to get into a dive, it works much better.

 

 

 

My theory is now, that smoothnes is of utmost importance. If you jink the stick, roll the aircraft around and do all kind of "extreme" maneuvers, the gyros get upset. Maybe the system already senses the "below 1 G" criteria already while you are still trying to get your nose down and haven't yet consented to the weapon release. Or maybe the gyros just get out of whack in general.

 

 

If I now push the nose geeeeeeently over, don't have to jink left and right to get my pipper placed correctly, then I usually get a release - and I get the bombs even quite close to my aim point!

 

 

 

Perhaps even banking over to get into a dive might work - I would need to experiment more here. But if it works, I would assume that the whole maneuver needs to be very smooth. And probably will require a few seconds to keep the pipper steady to allow the gyros to "re-align"(?).

 

 

Just my 2 ct - maybe something to ponder about.

 

I think you are spot on. I played around a bit this evening, and not upsetting the gyros does seem to be key. I also think that if I’m going to bank over, then I want an extra 2-3000’ of height in the kitty. Just to give me a bit more chance to stabilise everything. An experienced pilot could probably forego that luxury.

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Try these.

 

First and last videos are the most important.

 

 

Always roll in, if you're interestested in reallity.

You can cage on the dive. Release when exactly on target. Consent when ready, or when pip goes out.

25 deg dives are easier than steep dives. Keep some power on.

 

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=165597

 

 

..


Edited by Holbeach

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..

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Try these.

 

First and last videos are the most important.

 

 

Always roll in, if you're interestested in reallity.

You can cage on the dive. Release when exactly on target. Consent when ready, or when pip goes out.

25 deg dives are easier than steep dives. Keep some power on.

 

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=165597

 

 

..

 

Thanks. I’ll have a nose at these as soon as I get a bit of me time :)

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