Uuuuaaaah..! I have started building now..!

depends on how many beer you've had....I'd say six....longer if your tolerance is low.

EDIT: i see you're from norway, so scratch the low tolerance!

Really..? Have you tested it.? That would be even more amazing of it's right..:thumbup:

I have and it works (rotary encoders with the small Leo card).

/Oakes

sure hope you got all the cables marked in both end buddy, or you will be sitting all night trying to find the proper ones (being all white, besides the two blue) ;P

I KNEW IT.. Aaaaaaaaaargh!!!:doh:

depends on how many beer you've had....I'd say six....longer if your tolerance is low.

 

 

 

EDIT: i see you're from norway, so scratch the low tolerance!

Dude.. sounds like you've been here..? LoL

Trigger,

 

If you have 2D drawings with dimensions, please post. :thumbup:

 

Sokol1

Here you are.. But do remember that I have'nt finished the Trigger Mechanics myself, so use the drawings as a guide line only.. At least until I can vouch for them myself..:cry:

You got me spot on there Alex.. (laughing) Sometimes I wonder if I should spend more time doin' it the Russian way, and make a lot of prototypes instead..? And THEN document the model that works in the end. But it has saved me a lot of time actually dawing up everything in SW and testing it there, and THEN make a prototype that doesn't work..!:doh:

I've been missing you on MSN lately btw..?

lol, I'd prefer validating everything in Solidworks before putting my hands on the real stuff coz when things get complex enough, there's always more than I may expect. And one is likely to grow more desperate with a mistake in a large-scaled project than with the same mistake in a smaller project.

Yea you've been missing me online because I'm still working on my thermalstat project. Last week I helped people design segment LCD interface. Till now, I'm still using a dot-matrix LCD module to display the text user interface. Right before I came to read this thread, I was calibrating the thermal resistor with some instruments and Microsoft Excel !!!

BTW I haven't heard from your neighbor either, sent him a reply a while ago. Listen, I really wanna get back to you guys, I miss flying. I'm trying to finish things asap and get my paycheck. lol.

Trigger,

Thank you.

Low res pictures of KG50 trigger from some Youtube clip:

The video:

Sokol1

Trigger,

 

Thank you.

Low res pictures of KG50 trigger from some Youtube clip:

 

 

 

 

 

Sokol1

DUUDE..! You have no idea how much you helped me with these pictures..!:thumbup:

Thanx mate..!

Pitbuilding Update - 19. January 2009 - Collective Mech Breakout Board and Yaw Pedal

I need to get me some more etching fliud... Because I tell you guys.. This breakout board soldering almost made me rip all my hear out..! (and I'm bald as an egg)..

After some really CRAPPY attempts of translating Leo's 6 by 6 matrix onto something I could make on an old pre-used testboard I had. I had a brilliant idea..

Why don't I see if maybe someone might have stumbled onto this problem before.. And hey..! I think I'll use this oppurtunity to look for it on the Internet.. Maybe even on the forum of Leo's website..!?

Some days you wake up and all is good..! You slept well..! Your significant other (politicly corect here.. LoL) is lookin fiiine..! ...even the dog is smiling at you..

This was not one of those days..!

So on to the support forum I went.. And whatta'ya know.. I found this..!

After I finally came out from my shame corner (pointy hat and all).. I realized that Douglas Adams actually was right..

The mice actually ARE the most intelligent creatures on this planet.!?

well, it has to right.. because judging from my own actions we can't be..! And as far as I know all the others are dumber than me..? Except for the mice.. They just will not interact with us at all.. They must think we're stupid..

Here is the layout I found on the Leo Bodnars forum. (I'll look it up again to credit the guy who made it.. But if you are reading this now.. good job..!)

And that turned into this:

yeah yeah yeah..! I know..! But it's not like I was planning on close-ups when I was cursing my way through a gazzilion solderpoints.. I'll tidy it up.. later.. maybe..

The BU0836A controller and breakoutboard is mounted on a piece of plastic foam board (3mm) and will be easily to reach and/or service on the backside of the Left Rear Wall..

And for some reason, unknown to man, I have decided to NOT take a picture of where on the Left Wall it will sit..?

Aaaaaaaaaaargh!... just shoot me..!

Pitbuilding Update - 19. January 2009 - Yaw Pedal assembly pictures

.. I kind'a promised this in the previous post.. :music_whistling:

and to save myself I will just upload the pics, and add the text when I have replaced my ten thumbs with fingers..:helpsmilie:

.. not to bad considering this was my goal..

Very nice! :thumbup:

I'm looking forward to seeing what you do on the electrical side. ;)

Looking good!

how is the horizontal stability? i would imagine that you would not just put forces on the x and y axis but also the z axiz (up and down, foot pressing downwards to the floor)

I would imagine that you could put a bracket and a second stop on the front and use them as a sort of sliding surface for the aluminum rod if there turns out to be a problem....

hopefully that's not going to be the the case, that axle you got looks pretty beefy :)

Edit: swetrekki will soon be a verry verry happy swetrekki, Leo bodnar confirmed shipment and the joystick should be on its way tomorrow.

Yes, i'm a happy camper :)

awesome!! you freak :D

trigger those pedals are awesome!! Is there a centering spring or a detent to let you know when they are centered? Ive been procrastinating on starting my pedals but your design looks top notch. Do you have CAD files of the pedals you can share??

-op4

awesome!! you freak :D

Thank you..

Very nice! :thumbup:

 

I'm looking forward to seeing what you do on the electrical side. ;)

Well I am either going to make the pedals into Force Feedback Pedals using a beefy 50V DC motor I have. It came out of one of thiose electric door openers they use in hotels. And it already is fitted with a reduction gearbox, so I think It will be adequate.

Or I'll build a pneumatic Force trim system with the smaller air actuators I have..

We'll see..

trigger those pedals are awesome!! Is there a centering spring or a detent to let you know when they are centered? Ive been procrastinating on starting my pedals but your design looks top notch. Do you have CAD files of the pedals you can share??

 

-op4

I think you will find them earlier in this thread somewhere... If you want them in a SW assembly or DXF just PM me your e-mail adress mate.. And I'll send them..:thumbup:

Looking good!

how is the horizontal stability? i would imagine that you would not just put forces on the x and y axis but also the z axiz (up and down, foot pressing downwards to the floor)

I would imagine that you could put a bracket and a second stop on the front and use them as a sort of sliding surface for the aluminum rod if there turns out to be a problem....

 

hopefully that's not going to be the the case, that axle you got looks pretty beefy :)

 

Edit: swetrekki will soon be a verry verry happy swetrekki, Leo bodnar confirmed shipment and the joystick should be on its way tomorrow.

Yes, i'm a happy camper :)

The pedals assembly will be attached to the Front pedestal, so I hope this will not be a problem.. Hmmm.. I HOPE..!

Like this:

Pitbuilding Update - 20 January 2009 - The Hall Effect Sensors

I am in the middle of sweating and swearing my way through connecting all the cables from the Collective Stick Box to the Controller Card. So I decided to take a short brake and make a mounting bracket for the Hall Effect sensor and magnets.

Since the Collective stick only moves about 30 degrees in total. I have checked up on Hall Effect sensors, and the way they translate magnetic fields into resistance.. And how I best can utilize this to suit my needs..

A HE Sensor changes it's resistance relative to how strong the magnetic field passing through it is. Much like the potensiometers that standard joysticks do.

But with HE Sensors you can alternate the curve of the resistance relative to the movement of the sensor by placing and/or moving the magnets in different patterns.

Here are some examples:

The most obvious example is to mave a magnet from a distance and close in on the sensor. The cloloser you get to the sensor (Gauss indicates the strenght of the magnetic field), the higher resistance it will get.

By sliding the magnet from either side and pass the sensor, you can have an exponetial curve that peaks as the magnet is directly under the sensor.

If you do the same sliding with TWO magnets oriented North to South next to eachother you can achieve a more flat curve. BUT the physical movement for this is REALLY small..

Spread the magnets a little from each other, it's quite easy to get the flat curve from previous example a bit wider..! Perfect for adapting to your exact joystick/pedal setup..!:thumbup:

I use this configuration in my Cougar Joystick.

(.. does require some gluing and screwing. and can be frustrating when using strong Neodyme magnets. Because the tend to come loose and SLAM together before you bolt them:cry:)

Ring magnets are good for where you have a large sircular movement. I can't think of any good examples right now, but maybe steering wheels?

They work exactly tha same way a unipolar slide-by would... exept the "slide" is now a "rotate"..:cry:

(not the most common type, but I think you find them inside small DC motors like CD ROMs and stuff)

I searced for an alternate way and came across this excellent setup by SOKOL1 : http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2559119/How_to_building_your_onw_sturd.html#Post2559119

He tested the setup through 47 degrees of movement and had almost exactly the result I was looking for!

I have mounted two Neodyme magnets at the end of my Collective Stick axle. And they are North to South oriented so they produce a strong uniform magnetic field:

The Hall Effect Sensor is soldered to a test boards underside and will sit directly over the center of the Collective axle:

On top of the test board there is a plug for the wire running to the Control Card from Leo Bodnar.

And they are alligned like this..!

By alligning them so that the magnetic field flow is paralell with the sensor at the Collective sticks center I will get an output of 2,5 Volts.

And when I move the Collective Stick up or down I turn the magnets arround the fixed sensor and the output varies like this.

... and that's just what I wanted it to be..

The info from SOKOL1 can be downloaded in a Pdf file at: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/julian265/il2/unistick/uni_stick.pdf

Thank you SOKOL1 for providing it to us all.:thumbup:

Edit: SOKOL1 brought this to my attention:

"Trigger,

I only linked this document in SimHQ, the autor is Julian from Australia.

He did a good study of pratic use of sensor HALL in stick."

So I say THANK YOU BOTH..! c",)

Pit Building Update - 20 January 2009 - Collective Mechanics Breakout board in place

Got the switch for the Collective Break wired now, and the plate that holds the Breakout board and Loe's Joystick Controller is in place..!:smartass:

.. as soon as I have connected all the switches and buttons I will cover the cables and test board with a lid made from the same 3mm foam plate and paint it..

I'll also put a light above it so that I can see what I am doing when I need to service or replace parts there..

Trigger,

I only linked this document in SimHQ, the autor is Julian from Australia.

Trigger,

 

I only linked this document in SimHQ, the autor is Julian from Australia.

He did a good study of pratic use of sensor HALL in stick.

 

:thumbup:

 

 

Sokol1

 

Thank you both is more correct..! ;)

Hi ,Triggerhappy69! Could you describe what programs do you use to connect your panels with DCS? And how button LEDs know when they must light and when not.

Hi ,Triggerhappy69! Could you describe what programs do you use to connect your panels with DCS? And how button LEDs know when they must light and when not.

I use Opencockpits IOCard to connect the Panels.

And by having SIOC scripts controlling them I can make subroutines that read me flipping a switch, and then tell the IOCard to light an LED before sending the keypress back to the simulator..

More in Oakes thread: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=618336

The most obvious example is to mave a magnet from a distance and close in on the sensor. The cloloser you get to the sensor (Gauss indicates the strenght of the magnetic field), the higher resistance it will get.

(

Controller is DIY Mjoy.

Sokol1

First test of the HOCAS setup

... FINALLY..! Guess who is going to have fun this weekend..!:thumbup:

.. no time to tell you about the stuff right now.. Gotta fire up DCS..!

You've not paid enough attention to the padding dear boy! Tut tut.

Enjoy!

I can't begin to describe the envy...

Congrats, Trigger! have fun! :thumbup: