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How To :HUD Export A10C DCS-World for Real HUD


PeterP

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PeterP I used my slow laptop just to try your measurements and I got the same slight shift. the only time its accurate is when i close one eye. when both eyes concentrate on the hud it looks like this :

DkKVZ.jpg

 

the distance from the HUD to the projector is all that matters. it makes our eyes converge on different points each time.

pilots never face this problem in real life cause they never face targets 1.5 meter from the HUD display. my current distance from hud to projection is 1.5 m and from eyes to projection is about 2.5 m.

 

what do think?

 

p.s the physical HUD is the same size as in game (around 95% to be precise )...PeterP dont get me wrong you advise is absolutely correct but only to make the HUD same size as in game HUD. but still you cannot avoid the convergence and thats where the problem.

 

Now everybody I just want to make clear that this setup is absolutely playable and precise. I just strive to perfection


Edited by sleepara
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I'd love to toy with this a bit myself, bu I dont see how it could be made accurate without big $$$ :(

 

how did the acrylic sheet work out for proof of concept?

 

I want to calm you down mate. the HUD was the cheapest in my build.

2 x reflective glass = 15$

1 x 19'' lg lcd monitor from recycle shop = 50$

 

what do you say about that? thats right ...not a big deal :D

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Originally Posted by Panthro viewpost.gif

I'd love to toy with this a bit myself, bu I dont see how it could be made accurate without big $$$ sad.gif

As Sleepara said: material cost are not a problem at all - you just have to work very precise.. .

Originally Posted by Panthro viewpost.gif

 

how did the acrylic sheet work out for proof of concept?

Nothing really spectacular - just exactly what you expect when holding a acrylic sheet in a 45° angle at you monitor and observe the reflection.

 

Try it out your self! :)

 

This tests just gave me the confidence that it sure will work and is bright enough for a HUD assembly.

 

 

 

PeterP I used my slow laptop just to try your measurements and I got the same slight shift. the only time its accurate is when i close one eye. when both eyes concentrate on the hud it looks like this :

 

what do think?

 

I think its time to build a "real " proof of concept for me and invite one of the workers of the optician-shop at the other side of my road - for a beer after work / seeing a desktop-simulator running - and have a look at this HUD-problem I have at home!:)

Maybe he will have a idea with which kind of lens it can be compensated.

 

But this will take probably about a month for me...

Next weekend I have a brunch at Saturday and I will visit the ZOO at Sunday...

 

And the weekend after I will go bicycling/camping two days with some friends - so not much "practical" time for building something up for testing left the next three weeks for me.

 

 

 

...PeterP dont get me wrong you advise is absolutely correct but only to make the HUD same size as in game HUD. but still you cannot avoid the convergence and thats where the problem.

 

Now everybody I just want to make clear that this setup is absolutely playable and precise. I just strive to perfection

 

No problem at all :)!!!

Just like I wrote some postings before: All that I know about this relies on my knowledge about physics and my common sense...- there is always the possibility that I miss something!

 

But I'm very sure that we all together will sort this "wrong convergence" out in the near future !:)

 

I have already the slight guess that positioning a Fresnel-lens between the mirrors and moving it - just to see what happens - will bring some enlightenment.


Edited by PeterP

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I know a guy, he designed the corrector lens for one of my scopes and could probably help out a bit.

 

I have shied away from thinking about this kind of thing because of the quality and potential problems with lining it up. If you guys think you pretty much have it nailed and the optical glass is the only issue then I dont mind playing around with it either.

 

Although that will take me up to 6 screens! I need my 7970 to be replaced with a 9990.

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I am so going to do this I just thought to align it well would take some expensive stuff

you could try using alloy reflective plate to remove double imaging from the lower mirror.

 

@sleepara you would think if the screen and your hud had the same focal point you wouldnt get the stereoscopic praralaxing errors :(

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I am so going to do this I just thought to align it well would take some expensive stuff

you could try using alloy reflective plate to remove double imaging from the lower mirror.

 

@sleepara you would think if the screen and your hud had the same focal point you wouldnt get the stereoscopic praralaxing errors :(

 

You mean an alumiminzed plate rahter than an aliminium plate? Something acrylic with the mirrored finish should be cheap and has the morror on the first surface.

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May i suggest a first surfaced mirror in front of the LCD and a piece of Dichroic glass as the HUD glass

 

http://viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=5057.0

http://www.thorlabs.us/search/thorsearch.cfm?search=Subtractive+Dichroic+Color

http://www.firstsurfacemirror.com/

 

A cheep way to make your own first surface mirror

  • Like 1

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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edit: Arrggh, sniped by Deadman! Nice...

 

 

Sorry to butt in, rep all round btw!

 

I'm lurking massively here, just not active 'cos I'm in between pits and have no machine at the moment.

 

Random aside:

 

1) What are the dimensions of a real-life A-10 HUD?

 

2) Flim/sleepara, what glass exactly did you use?

I had thought of using as thin acrylic as I can find with this overlaid:

http://www.purlsol.com/products_bymeter_list.php?catid=92

 

Stupid idea? overkill?


Edited by Jinja

i7@3.5Ghz, ATI 5870, 16GB RAM, win7 64bit, TH2GO, Track-IR, 4screen pit, TM WArthog HOTAS

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1)That is what I have. And I didn't found anything at the www.

Would be nice if someone could cross-check if this measurements are legit ...

 

 

Hud-pit.jpg

 

 

I have contacted someone that will have access to a A-10C in September. He will pass us the the dimension from a HUD that is actual in service .

 

 

 

 

 

Edit:

 

Thanks Deadman!

 

Made some re-calculations relating on known measurements like the UFC and took also the width of Deadmans measurements into it. So I did come up with this dimensions for the HUD in the A-10C.

 

Hud-pit-2.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Deadmans measurements on a old HUD:

HUD.jpg

 

 

2)

... about the glass...I got it from the local "Glazier"...that's how u call a guy that custom builds windows?...just look for a reflective window or semi reflective window at the local shop. it must have one reflective side which reflects from the surface itself in contrary of a mirror which makes the reflection travel through the entire mirror thickness (for example 2mm thick or 5mm thick mirror )

Edited by PeterP

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edit: Arrggh, sniped by Deadman! Nice...

 

 

Sorry to butt in, rep all round btw!

 

I'm lurking massively here, just not active 'cos I'm in between pits and have no machine at the moment.

 

Random aside:

 

1) What are the dimensions of a real-life A-10 HUD?

 

2) Flim/sleepara, what glass exactly did you use?

I had thought of using as thin acrylic as I can find with this overlaid:

http://www.purlsol.com/products_bymeter_list.php?catid=92

 

Stupid idea? overkill?

 

I guess it can work but I would'nt travel too far mate...just grab a piece of reflective-glass and call it a day. 100% working concept and cheap.

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If I had the time I would take pictures of all the parts I have so you guys could get a look,but it is hard enough to get time to work on the knobs, let a lone the pit plans right now

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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What do you have going on dm, what's keeping you so busy?

i7-4820k @ 3.7, Windows 7 64-bit, 16GB 1866mhz EVGA GTX 970 2GB, 256GB SSD, 500GB WD, TM Warthog, TM Cougar MFD's, Saitek Combat Pedals, TrackIR 5, G15 keyboard, 55" 4K LED

 

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Thanks Deadman!

 

Made some re-calculations relating on known measurements like the UFC and took also the width of Deadmans measurements into it. So I did come up with this dimensions for the HUD in the A-10C.

 

Hud-pit-2.jpg


Edited by PeterP

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Wife,Two jobs summer hunny do list, a bit of flying, family outing with my relatives, basically live and only a 24 day:lol:

What do you have going on dm, what's keeping you so busy?

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Wife,Two jobs summer hunny do list, a bit of flying, family outing with my relatives, basically live and only a 24 day:lol:

 

 

It gets worse when you retire. The "free" time gained is more than offset by retirement honey-do lists made by wives who have had years to develop skills at making lists which sound quite reasonable and are somehow impossible to argue your way out of.

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Wife,Two jobs summer hunny do list, a bit of flying, family outing with my relatives, basically live and only a 24 day:lol:

 

Two summer jobs? tell the hunny to do the list :D. 24 hours in a day kinda suck when you throw in sleep, which I hate.

 

It gets worse when you retire. The "free" time gained is more than offset by retirement honey-do lists made by wives who have had years to develop skills at making lists which sound quite reasonable and are somehow impossible to argue your way out of.

 

Don't say that! I have 7 years before I can retire. Gotta make sure all the bills are paid off by then!

i7-4820k @ 3.7, Windows 7 64-bit, 16GB 1866mhz EVGA GTX 970 2GB, 256GB SSD, 500GB WD, TM Warthog, TM Cougar MFD's, Saitek Combat Pedals, TrackIR 5, G15 keyboard, 55" 4K LED

 

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