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Uuuuaaaah..! I have started building now..!


Triggerhappy69

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Hmmm there are lot of misprints

 

For example "КТОП ЗАПУСК" should be "СТОП ЗАПУСК"

"ТУРЬО РИВОД" > "ТУРБО ПРИВОД"

"ВИГ ПЕВ ПРАВ" > "ДВИГ ЛЕВ ПРАВ"

"СЬРОС" > "СБРОС"

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looks great to me. Now I just need to build one myself.

 

=FV=MAD relax it is his and can build/lable it how he wants... :P I am sure he know what it print is supose to be.

Home built PC Win 10 Pro 64bit, MB ASUS Z170 WS, 6700K, EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid, 32GB DDR4 3200, Thermaltake 120x360 RAD, Custom built A-10C sim pit, TM WARTHOG HOTAS, Cougar MFD's, 3D printed UFC and Saitek rudders. HTC VIVE VR.

 

https://digitalcombatmercenaries.enjin.com/

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Hmmm there are lot of misprints

 

For example "КТОП ЗАПУСК" should be "СТОП ЗАПУСК"

"ТУРЬО РИВОД" > "ТУРБО ПРИВОД"

"ВИГ ПЕВ ПРАВ" > "ДВИГ ЛЕВ ПРАВ"

"СЬРОС" > "СБРОС"

 

Thank you ..! I will have those m isprints fixed ASAP..!

 

Do you have any idea what the different things stand for?

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Collective Stick Building Update..

 

Finished the shroud that cover the Rotor Speed Governor Handles. And also function as guide-slots for the handles.

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MItvtwEwCMzpTRKortjGKx92_TQ4ElKiUavOuhWc1nPU9TgNWBRHkwBfZt1ovReFgo

 

 

The Collective is slowly but surely starting to look like something now don't you think?

 

The cover that roll over the guide slots will be added later.. Now I'm just pushing forwards for functionality AND form. Because I really want to get started on the Cyclic stick and all it's bellcrancs and solenoid activated "force trim" mechanics.. :helpsmilie:

y1pXMutyGoQ-MIPwR29KH1l1plHdrPD_5VIFuOY_fj2FQMrDiGOuoTXOtsEyHxXBBTje0AH-JRc80E

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MKCv3Xs2MFIa_whfA9kyettPPaXdX_KNrvrT2cdWsGY1NeeD8-Vrw0WkBfDQT8Psig

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MJFUsMMUo1lh7JHT5Do_OrUGd4F6WlJFUrNmQU9FfxyQ_p7MmZD_m9HtXqe2Nf2hE4

y1pXMutyGoQ-MIk4H2fPwuXIiq7C3WBpo0WkuFrtuCYx2mgN6apqDlEfccXG9PKaSPUqaFvAtywXAQ

 

The APU Panel is as near to complete as it can get without having the PCB etched out. Maybe I'm just to picky, but I want every panel to function as seperate units, so that if on breaks down it will not affect the others.. And PCB designing and etching might be easy to learn. But it's damn hard to be good at..! (And so far I'n NOT good..)

 

Also the mechanichs of the rotorbrake handle is an ongoing prosess. I have so far tried maybe three or four different designs that didn't work. But I have high hopes for number four.!

 

It will be a 6mm steel rod that is connected between the rotorbrake handle on the collective and a simple spring-loaded friction brake behind the collective's pivot point.. But more on that later..!

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Another Panel Update..

 

Well just thought I'd share the first drawings for the .. eeehh.. DAMMIT..! I'm completely blank as far as what the panel is called right now.. :music_whistling:

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MLTnTHrg2pnNSIRKppIM10SLiC3jjRkX4IrZ9Wqo9t3vUsaEXFPgGGBoq0TyeuN750

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Mystery Panel Designing..

 

auto pilot mabe.

 

I think it's a combination of several things judging from what i could guess after "babelfishing" the ciryllic..?

 

After finishing the APU panel (Yes, pics are on the way.. just thought i'de use a proper camera to get the details of the consruction). I have been scanning the Internet for a more simple way to design the other panels.

 

By simple I mean having to fabricate fewer parts. And with a method that doesn't require acsess to a CnC router or anything fancy.. Just your everyday garage variety tools..!

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MLrJeJNzmXVS68iikc_C7sKCMfmClpmc0O1VZwHXYWi3Pe1qMW6v-bG50cypbrhj5k

 

Here's the general layout. It consists of a 1mm bacplate to fit the toggle swiches on, and to the leftside module of the Pit.

 

On top of that is a 4mm Polycarbonate plate that have all the cutouts for switches, push-buttons and backlighting LED's. It might seem like an impossible job to get the cut-outs right. But as long as you move ahead slowly and always make shure to cool down the poly plate with a mix of water and soap when drilling holes, you'll be good..! Be prepared for a nightly raid into your wifes beautybag to steal her manicure kit though...:music_whistling:

 

25mm spacers hold the PCB in place, and give some room to solder wires and such (I wish I had done that on the APU panel..)

 

I'm designing the PCB layout still, so I'll have to get back to that.!

 

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MJFUVnhip-2aLH2ybzM9tpsmEJI1w38ymHGq-PVzitIYMdN8jeK6oqbi3jq6HsbNY8

 

The Push-buttons are 15x15mm with a 19x19mm backplate to prevent them from moving forwards. On top of the backplate is a 5mm thick 15x15mm Poly-plate with holes for the 3mm LED's and fixing-peg (6mm). Then the print will be glued on, and on top a 2mm thick poly-plate.

 

 

The sides will be painted white, and then black. White to reflect the light from the LED's back into the push-button, and the black coat is .. well you're not THAT stupid, so I'll leave it at that.. LoL

 

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MJ6HwU6TMF0nw3kTV44Dr1jXvLsdQ7rlMXiYdtQRek5BV4O0TFkx-RYIpupESxKJWQ

 

The push-buttons press down a 8mm plastic pipe with a 6mm inner diameter. This fit snuggly over the OMRON tactile switches and are just flexible enough to give a "right" feel. I use the same kind of pipe that you use for aquaruim pumps (or as in my case computer watercooling).

 

 

 

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"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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APU Panel PCB Update

 

Fixed the PCB's now.. They Work..!

 

After making three PCB's that did'nt fit (the LED's where out of line from they're backplate holes). I found a way to scan the backplate and import into the Eagle PCB software. And now I have a working layout fot the APU Panel:

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-ML0pKjzhOtRLBLA5fet0DRE02Inc9m-8ZIuTJeyqHt2WKQjnlC2b7SP5BW0K-H0VdE

 

Both layers with the components.

y1pXMutyGoQ-MKP3CbAGK63QGgJNF-Ufs80pNlp1tm6m8zzuRCYmPERZRNVxF5R-KBiawxhJ8Szjio

 

Top layer.

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MKJH8GXXHZUduTBdbrrpuLGaBKjJYfs3amRN1LfyPgma0GZS5YPtWANv-ZrpHfsIKY

 

And the Bottom Layer.

 

Edit 09. june 2008: I have added seperate resistors for each Backlight LED now. And made the tracks and solderpads a bit wider. The board has been made, assembled, soldered and tested. And it works just fine-- c",)

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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R-800 Panel PCB update.

 

Added 09.04.08: New PCB Layout..! It should work now..!

 

This is next in line. Situated to the left of the APU Panel It was naturall to build it next.

 

All the banels, prints and backplates are allready made (no pics yet.. waiting for camera untill later tonight remember..). But it will look like this:

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MLsej-Lzsm_LPRZj_0RXrAB0GAIRTDiUZIQaFSXRcKVdzRIiZ0dz_VRG0R4UPrcEuI

 

All the parts.

 

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Rendering of the layout.

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MLEo9tdRVhkcgzxfm9m-sT97aa0GZVecpgLComSYhx0Nf6BBNpW2gqkxJ5K2_bCOGo

 

PCB with components.

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MJaRmEb22EpvBksff8p1Nwas-8ucdt6A4vi46bgVb1u2cvNhfQMwWud4f2mK7mPhSo

 

PCB Top Layer.

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MLJhPayRJ_KaH3vXTJJwNKyYmmy3ZMupox5kvVFbn8mZ7eQ5Zcd_g-bSnnDxh_Yh6A

 

And finally the bottom layer..

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Boy I wish I had the time money and tools to do what you are doing. I am hopping to build a AH-64a close to your standard. Good work keep it up .

Home built PC Win 10 Pro 64bit, MB ASUS Z170 WS, 6700K, EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid, 32GB DDR4 3200, Thermaltake 120x360 RAD, Custom built A-10C sim pit, TM WARTHOG HOTAS, Cougar MFD's, 3D printed UFC and Saitek rudders. HTC VIVE VR.

 

https://digitalcombatmercenaries.enjin.com/

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LED Disaster.... My Bad.!

 

.... DAMN..!

 

I was preparing to write an update with pics of panels with working switches and LED's.. But then after some frantic soldering and finally connecting the 5V and 12V powersources to the panels, it all said POOF..!

 

For some strange reason I had designed the PCB's with the LED's in series instead of paralell as my plan originally was..!

 

I had them set up like this:

series_photo.png

 

The were supposed to be connected like this:

parallel_photo.png

 

Having 14 LED's on the APU panel alone that would require a powersource of 50 Volt at least..!

 

Well... Back to the PCB designing and new update tomorrow..

 

(after I have stock up on LED's again.):doh:

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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.... DAMN..!

 

The were supposed to be connected like this:

parallel_photo.png

 

Having 14 LED's on the APU panel alone that would require a powersource of 50 Volt at least..!

 

Well... Back to the PCB designing and new update tomorrow..

 

(after I have stock up on LED's again.):doh:

 

Hey dude, I'd suggest you put a resistor in series with each LED respectively. The parallel circuit would work fine if those LED's were idealy matched, should any of them come with a lower forward voltage, it will end up being the brightest one.

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Hey dude, I'd suggest you put a resistor in series with each LED respectively. The parallel circuit would work fine if those LED's were idealy matched, should any of them come with a lower forward voltage, it will end up being the brightest one.

 

 

 

Good point..! They are all the same LED (5mm Ultrawhite, 30mA, 3,5Volt).. Is that what you would call "idealy matched" .. ? Or are you talking about something else..?:huh:

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Good point..! They are all the same LED (5mm Ultrawhite, 30mA, 3,5Volt).. Is that what you would call "idealy matched" .. ? Or are you talking about something else..?:huh:

 

Actually I was talking about redundancy in your design, which would allow people who copy your design to implement different LED's instead of 14 identical ones.

 

In your case, three individual resistors will also promise better operation conditions. Most of the LED's we use are current-driven components, i.e, their brightness is in proportion with the current that flows through them, not the voltage accross them. By connecting 14 LED's in parallel, you are providing them with the same voltage(Vforward a.k.a Vf). But due to manufacturing reasons, at the same Vf, the actual current that flows through each LED may not be exactly 1/14 of the total current that flows through the resistor. Those with greator current will probably shine brighter, and some might appear too dim.

 

And 14 LED's will drain about 400mA according to your data. White LED's normally have a Vf around 3.2V, if you use 5V power supply and single resistor in series, you will need a 4.7ohm(1W) resistor which grows real hot and can't promise uniform brightness. If 14 indivicual resistors are used, you might wanna go with 14 X 68ohm(1/16W) resistors which are barely warm while working. SMD resistors in 0603 package will offer you a compact design, the larger 0805's are more handy for soldering.

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Like This..?

 

Actually I was talking about redundancy in your design, which would allow people who copy your design to implement different LED's instead of 14 identical ones.

 

In your case, three individual resistors will also promise better operation conditions. Most of the LED's we use are current-driven components, i.e, their brightness is in proportion with the current that flows through them, not the voltage accross them. By connecting 14 LED's in parallel, you are providing them with the same voltage(Vforward a.k.a Vf). But due to manufacturing reasons, at the same Vf, the actual current that flows through each LED may not be exactly 1/14 of the total current that flows through the resistor. Those with greator current will probably shine brighter, and some might appear too dim.

 

And 14 LED's will drain about 400mA according to your data. White LED's normally have a Vf around 3.2V, if you use 5V power supply and single resistor in series, you will need a 4.7ohm(1W) resistor which grows real hot and can't promise uniform brightness. If 14 indivicual resistors are used, you might wanna go with 14 X 68ohm(1/16W) resistors which are barely warm while working. SMD resistors in 0603 package will offer you a compact design, the larger 0805's are more handy for soldering.

 

 

 

Like this?? :

 

364690488_APUWithSeperateResistors.thumb.JPG.f25ef5c55f1082dc6d09a1e16c033dc6.JPG

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Yes, like that. those LED's look fine with the resistors. Takes more time to solder but definitely providing more redundancy for your design.

 

By the way where do those pads along the left boundary lead to? Are those LED's driven ON/OFF simultaneously or individually? It is VERY IMPORTANT to note that if they are driven individually, you will HAVE TO use a resistor for each LED like I suggested. Because if they share the same resistor and not all 14 LED's are lit, the resulting voltage across those which are lit will rise beyond the rated Vf and eventually destory the shining LED's.

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Yes, like that. those LED's look fine with the resistors. Takes more time to solder but definitely providing more redundancy for your design.

 

By the way where do those pads along the left boundary lead to? Are those LED's driven ON/OFF simultaneously or individually? It is VERY IMPORTANT to note that if they are driven individually, you will HAVE TO use a resistor for each LED like I suggested. Because if they share the same resistor and not all 14 LED's are lit, the resulting voltage across those which are lit will rise beyond the rated Vf and eventually destory the shining LED's.

 

 

The Backlight LED's (the 14) are switched on by a 5V output from my IOCards. This triggers a 12V supply, from a computer powersource, through a REED Relay (HAMLIN HE 3621A1200 in the top Left corner).

 

The Warning light LED Is driven directly from the 5V output from IOcard..

 

They both have seperate resistors.. (one for the backlight LED's and one for the Warning light LED).

 

 

 

Damn Alex..! Now you're scaring me a bit here..!

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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The Backlight LED's (the 14) are switched on by a 5V output from my IOCards. This triggers a 12V supply, from a computer powersource, through a REED Relay (HAMLIN HE 3621A1200 in the top Left corner).

 

The Warning light LED Is driven directly from the 5V output from IOcard..

 

They both have seperate resistors.. (one for the backlight LED's and one for the Warning light LED).

 

 

 

Damn Alex..! Now you're scaring me a bit here..!

 

No need to be scared, pal. I can't provide immediate examples of what exact damage a shared resistor can cause, but I assure you using individual resistors would only yield better result. This is what I do, take a look at the attached picture and see how many resistors are used. This is the PCB for a dot-matrix LED screen. Each cathode has been connected to a resistor. This eliminates the possibility of cross interference between different LED's.

LED.jpg.43abb12b219f306f63c32ba7dd9507ab.jpg

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Update 11.052008 APU Panel With PCB and Backlight

 

Time for Baclighting the APU Panel..

 

Here's a couple of thoughts and experiences I made (and will not make again I hope):

 

For some so far unknown moronic reason I designed the PCB in such a way that the solderpads were spread on both sides of the PCB... NOT A GOOD IDEA..!

All the LED's had to be adjusted in height and then soldered on both sides. Now that in it self is no biggie.. LED's have looong legs that are easy to solder. The REED Relay on the other hand does not make for soldering on both sides.! I'll keep that in mind for the new PCB Layouts coming up! (I'll just exchange the ones in the original post, and make and edit note of it):

 

 

 

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y1pXMutyGoQ-MI9i5zDP_LzY2qYeIcH2paa3KWvKsfo75at_D3AoT06njb78-67x7-vGsV4920pPTE

y1pXMutyGoQ-MJSsX_djPsdpR9z9EMx5nCd1SIDB0ozbBzSpBKtvs_uIhmaJHwnZWcLWLykIT45HqY

The REED Relay in the bootom right corner triggers the 12V current to the Backlight LED's.

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MIC9bwQ3BrOZ6oDUHPSv6ghzE_KPTpLTDG-vlk2alZ6gpvFIHovfDVmMn6RXsr-xDc

 

Other side. The switches and rotary will be connectet by short wires to solderpads near to each switch, and then routed to the connection-side of the PCB..

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MLFNd70P-wJHyN4_aOWQtBril2XlN0RhbfPe8bPWx_DXXa_CI6pRF5KO_al7fdUTB0

 

Started adding some of the cables.

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MIgyuOBJsT4Fo6jquUcvkBoCleYXJbq0ZmIKyLX2ugMp7P8mhMF9wUjVemo9VZIBP0

 

... more cables..

 

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FINALLY...! First time the backlight LED's shine.. And Alex..? You're right..! The resistor got really hot, but I hope it will hold..

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MKWQS5cICTRvnhYees4UGQzPvD4jNABMG6KUt9_5fx7VjnyylXQ-W65mbsxT5oU2rI

 

 

 

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MIvrd8xh9Jx5cb5zTYa55Y5jEJwOGgbTkVYwF-KH-9MzE7KMCbvutxq2hM_V4E7dvY

Print for backlit text are made up of two layers of identical A4 Paper glued together. And then covered with laminating film (the sticky type you use on school books).

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Update 11.05.08 Part 2. APU Panel finished with textplate and backlighting

 

Judging from the look on my face I was starting to get a little bored from working on this ONE PANEL for so long! LoL

 

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MI7D_tHvlRM4UH01slRPTBdfD-MGIcA_s8KWPYPbnUfwlRUUIbMewWTaSCZWWJQnJ8

 

 

First backlit picture with text face on.!

 

y1pXMutyGoQ-MLF8dP8wU1GpjGeih3aePYn9wD1ru4Sgv1m99RVPQRO2QhA-ULmcDfA9neP52VdAtQ

y1pXMutyGoQ-MJFXiYZEGc4htpY_yPpVgQ4V2W_e9BcrTUGpH8Q-BJEkRQ7rq641PsHvMAI8cwJt1o

y1pXMutyGoQ-MJJhKUobG7xGWUFEmDTznNliM4ZMzi1Zlk4nFzBojW3_WUJudlM4eyyVd1vQhfTl6E

 

Just a tiny bit of wire conneting now, and I'm done with the bloody APU Panel (at least for now)..!

 

All detailed drawings and a short build description is on it's way.. Gimme a couple of days and I'll have it ready...!

 

So what do you think?

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"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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No need to be scared, pal. I can't provide immediate examples of what exact damage a shared resistor can cause, but I assure you using individual resistors would only yield better result. This is what I do, take a look at the attached picture and see how many resistors are used. This is the PCB for a dot-matrix LED screen. Each cathode has been connected to a resistor. This eliminates the possibility of cross interference between different LED's.

 

 

This does make sence to me.. I will change all the PCB layouts from now...

 

BTW.. How do you get the wires all neatly organized horizontally like that..!? Me like A LOT..!

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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