Panel Backlighting Test

Hi All!

Pit progress has come to halt. I have been losing sleep trying to come up with a solution for backlighting.

So far here is what I have.

Results are OK.

Surface mount LEDs on individual PCBs. It will require a lot of wiring and piles of resistors. Obviously to do all panels will require dedicated power supply.

Thoughts or advice please.

Thanks

Clay

There are several threads with this topic. Here's one:

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1712123&postcount=23

Or this one: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1272293&postcount=1

Good luck!

I'm about to do the same thing, but personally I will go for a diffuser rather than a huge amount of LED's and resistors.

a bit to many LEDs if you ask me. that one label can be perfectly lighted with just one. or two where's the second LED also partially lights the neighboring label

I've been really exploring edgelighting my panels with the LED strips and using a diffuser film. Not quite happy with the tests I've done thus far, but think I'm nearing something I like.

Bravo

I have tried diffuser. I doesn't seem to give good results in such a short distance. Since i am trying to keep everything within the thickness of the lightplate I still get hot spots with 1 or 2 leds using diffuser film. Maybe I should try a different product??

Looking forward to seeing how yours turns out! Keep us updated!

Anton

Are you thinking I should try a more indirect approach? I can relocate LEDs and report back.

Thanks!

Clay

You can find my method for backlighting here. It uses about 8-14 LEDs per panel, but gets a very nice light.

Thanks Gadroc!

I see my mistakes now.

Like Anton hinted at. Move the hot spots away from view and problem solved.

I will redesign and try again.

Hoping to get this figured out so I can move on to backlighting my Gadroc inspired CMSP panel!

I'm sure the push buttons will bring on a new challenge....

Very nice panel by the way!

Clay

Success!

Indirect method seems to be the key! Old Iphone camera sucks. In reality the results are better than what I had hoped. Very consistent light output. Hot spots are absolutely gone. Diffuser not required at all. Looks perfect (to me anyway and that's all that counts really).

I just hacked this together for a test but I will take pics of the internals when i clean it up a bit (by that i mean a lot). I have to modify entire panel.

Really appreciate all the help offered here guys. For some reason I was stuck on the idea that I had to have lighting directly behind the labels. Big mistake.

Huge thanks again

Clay

yes, I as well found after couple initial tries that direct lighting makes for visibly non-uniform lit panel .

last one indeed looks good. keep posting

Looks quite good ClayM :thumbup:

Cheers

Hans

Looks good. It would be helpful to see the Layer 2 layout for placement of the LEDs. Can you post some pictures of that?

Seems you nailed the sweet spot! Nicely done. Looking forward to seeing how you placed them.

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

My Pit so far: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

Thanks Guys!

I wanted to finish the entire panel to make sure my method would work before posting any details.

I have made small sections of PC board with surface mount 0805 leds. The boards are mounted so that leds are not pointing up to the face of the panel but on their side so that they illuminate the pocket that is under the faceplate.

Clay

Looks great!

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Still playing around with this.....:helpsmilie:

I was wondering, with a real panel, is the actual switch hole supposed to be lit as well?

I have been trying to keep backlight bleed away from the switch hole. I don't know why because I have never seen a real panel and have no idea if this is correct.

Thanks for any help!

Clay

It depends on the panels and the type of switch.

Toggles switch holes are painted.

Rotaries, potentiometer or encoders

The hole is painted but the area around the hole may

be a complete circle or just a portion.

The area may all so be clear or white.

The Intercoms panel with its push pull potentiometer

would be the only panel I know of that the hole is

the light source for the specific switch knob.

Thanks DM!

Good info once again.

Clay

Your welcome hope it works out for you

Hey clay, your panel seems to be a solid base to attach the switches to, with holes behind the text.

Then you stick a front plate with black and gaps for the font?

Is that right because I think if that works, ie, i print a couple of layers of acetate and glue them to a panel it will suit me?

Looks awesomely close to the real deal ClayM. Outstanding work Sir

Cheers

Hans

Thank you Hans!

I actually built this panel some time ago. I have since changed the font for my panels which should be a closer copy of your pic. Now I have to go back and re-do a bunch of my old panels!

Mr_Burns

Yes. If I understand you correctly that should work great!

I have to admit that building backlit panels has been a big challenge for me. Building basic panels, even with displays or indicators is one thing but trying to backlight an entire panel plus the pushbuttons, is a totally differant story.

I am now thinking that using copper clad board for the base plate might be the best thing to do. It would make backlighting so much easier. I'm going to give it try and post the results.

Clay