P-51D cockpit build

Thanks guys

Yeah, that is the color but it looks a lot lighter online and in pics due to the amount of light I have to use to take pictures. I was looking at a darker color but when I put test samples in the room where the pit will be this one looked the best. The room will be somewhat dark and a darker shade was too much.

Brilliant, this and

Butt kickers, VR headset would be great !

All controls are in correct position for VR

Hum build a great looking pit!! Then stick a set of VR goggles on so you can see any of it ya that makes scene.

Can still reach out and touch it...

Oh, and one only has the goggles down for flying. How much time do we spend just admiring our pits and sitting in them to have a cuppa and a think - er, I mean "cockpit familiarisation drill".

Simply amazing. A big surround screen and some projectors would make it even more awesome :)

Very impressive! What stick will you use?

love it, nice job

Thanks guys

This turned out to be a much more involved project than I had planned but I'm enjoying the process. I'm sure those of you that are building your own pit are nodding your head at that comment! I am anxious to get it done so I can take it for a spin.

I started this thread showing the pit almost complete. In other threads I've seen comments that you like to see the build process. Should I post those pics too?

Regarding the stick, I have a Saitek X52 stick and throttle but they are not what NAA supplied in the 1940's. I did pick up a Saitek AV8R because the grip is very similar to the real one. If I use the AV8R I will need to install an extension which is what I was measuring today. I also have Saitek Pro Flight Pedals. While measuring the stick I started planning a modification to the pedals to more resemble the real ones.

Just when I start to see the end of the project I make changes and create more more work for myself. Oh well, the wife told me to keep busy in retirement so I guess that goal is being met!

Ed

Well, work was started on modifying my rudder pedals as they did not match the Mustang and were too narrow.

I did not want to cut into my Saitek Pro Flight pedals so I will make replacement foot rests and secure them to the original pedals with extensions to make the unit wider.

The plans show that the rounded base of the pedals is 1 3/8 inch in diameter and 6 inches wide. I was pleased to find a 1/3/8 inch dowel at the local big box store.

I decided to use MDF for the sides and back since it is strong, easy to work and I can use wood glue to secure it to the dowel at the bottom of the pedal. The flat back of the pedal is more support than visual as it will be covered when finished. I will add a brace behind the back to help apply pressure to activate the toe brakes.

There is a curve in the pedals and making curves always give me a challenge. In the past I have steamed and bent wood, cut kerfs in wood to help it bend and heated acrylic. Today I chose acrylic since I want a smooth top layer.

I cut a notch along the length of the dowel to brace the bottom of the acrylic then applied heat and a slight force to make the acrylic bend. Since the acrylic will not show I secured it with 2 counter sunk screws. I am using acrylic here because the top layer will be styrene and I can glue that to the acrylic with no exposed fasteners.

The wood block was sized to match the dowel and will act as a brace and attachment point for the new pedals. To get better contact I drilled a hole in the end of the block that matches the dowel. This will give me a lot of glue surface and I may sneak in a screw or two just to make sure.

The MDF back and sides and the acrylic are oversized and will be trimmed to match the curved top of the new pedals then the styrene top layer will be installed. I have not decided how the wood block will be attached to the original pedals but I am leaning towards nuts and bolts. Hmmm, another trip to the hardware store!

Ed

Hello everyone

Today I rounded the top of the frame, glued the white styrene over the acrylic and added the top trim. Not a lot to show for most of the day in the shop.

Take care

Ed

Looking good!

Coincidently, I've been making rudder pedals out of wood and bits n bobs too... :D

Thanks Cripple

Today I finished the pedals short of a few coats of paint. The pedal mounts are now secured to the original pedals with two screws in the front from underneath and a nut & bolt at the top. This gives a real secure feeling.

The new offset pedals caused a lean to the outside of the base because of the “play” in the original pedals. I did not want to take the original pedals apart to try and tighten up the side to side lean so I went with “plan B”.

I added a plate to the back of each new bracket and will secure my old 3 lb. dive weights as a counter balance. Not pretty but it will not be seen behind the center switch box.

One benefit I had not counted on was the added weight makes you feel like you are pressing against a “force”. Before I had my entire foot on the old pedals and didn’t notice the light feeling in the pedals. With the new pedals my heels will be on the floor and I will have the ball of my foot on the pedals. Now I feel like I am pushing something with some weight.

The paint shop is next then the pedals will be complete.

Take care

Ed

Hello everyone

Well, today started just like most days, with a trip to my favorite aviation parts store, Lowe’s. I picked up some PVC pipe fittings to lengthen the joy stick shaft and here are the results.

Take care

Ed

I purchased the Saitek AV8R stick months ago because the grip is similar to the Mustang. It’s not the greatest stick and I don’t know how long it will last but I only paid $20 for it so we’ll see what happens.

This is the stick in its original condition.

I have unscrewed the grip and with 2 more screws out the wires are accessible.

Four screws out of the grip and 2 out of its base and its wires are now accessible.

Here are the pipe fittings I chose to make an adapter for the lower connection. In this pic you see a connector, pipe adapter and 1 inch pipe (shaft). The connector fit nicely over the threaded base connection but its original length interfered with the spring mechanism. I trimmed off ¾ inch and all is well.

With the adapter inserted into the connector I slipped the parts onto the base and drilled holes for bolts and nuts to hold the adapter to the base. These bolts went through the threads on the base. I then inserted the 1 inch pipe, checked the unit’s length in my pit and cut the shaft to length. I took everything apart, extended the wires from the base, through the new shaft to the grip and reconnected everything.

Here is the grip on the 1 inch pipe. The diameter was a nice fit but it could only be inserted 3/16 inch into the grip so I added bolts through the grip into the pipe.

Complete assembly

And in the pit.

Hello everyone

First, here is an update to the stick modification shown above. My wife saw that I was fumbling with the material to make the shroud so she volunteered to make it for me! She is a keeper!

I had been procrastinating on ordering small screens for the fuel gauges until I saw some 7 inch LCD's at Desktop Aviator for $35 so I bought the last 2 they had.

I have started on the bezels for the gauges and here you can see one in place.

The display looks good when viewed directly but at any angle it "grays" out and becomes blurry. This is OK for the fuel gauges in the floor as I will be looking directly down at them just like in the pic above. For the O2 blinker and pressure gauge under the MIP they won't work since the gauges are below eye level and I will view them at an angle. I am considering tilting the screen just enough so it will be viewed from a more direct perspective or looking for a small screen that gives a better viewing angle. I'm considering tilting the screen since that should be easier and cheaper and will give me better access to the on/off button for the MIP screen.

Take care

Ed

Cool stuff mate check simpits.co.nz for a screen that I think maybe perfect for your project

Fraser, thanks for the kind words and info for simpits.

Ed

Hello everyone.

I think I have this sim building thing figured out. When you start to get near the end of the project you see something new and say “Hey, I could add that to my pit.” Then you take the pit apart and figure out how to add the new part or feature. Oh well, as my wife keeps saying, at least I’m staying busy and out of her hair.

I played around a little more with the two 7 inch LCD displays I ordered for the floor fuel gauges and feel fairly comfortable with how they function. Thankfully they are easy to set up with Air Manager and Windows. So now it was time to install them in the floor.

I got the last 2 LCD units Desktop Aviator had for these fuel gauges. I wanted to make sure they work the way I want for my sim and they do. So, I contacted DTA and asked them to order another one for me and it should be here in 2-3 weeks. More about where that will go later.

Take care

Ed

Here you can see where I have identified the floor supports with masking tape and placed a drawing of the display and circuit board for measurement.

With the location determined I cut out the recessed areas with my router.

Then I dropped a unit in to make sure I had left enough room for the wires.

I had also marked the locations in the oak flooring and cut the round holes for the bezels. I trimmed them to the correct depth and HEY, they fit!!

Today I painted the bezels and added screws to simulate the real units. The real gauges and bezels are below floor level but I chose NOT to complicate my life any more than I already have. I also started working on the defroster and hot air controls.

Nice! :D

Gotta make an extra one down there for a drink holder.

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Thanks Cripple. I'm watching and learning from your build. Great job on the Spit!

Elmo, you can't fly dry! Not sure where exactly it will go but if I run out of room here is "plan B" :music_whistling:

Nice mounts for Tir too!

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Hello Raceguy like the pit doing a outstanding job. Got one question about your dremel tho. Can you show me the whole set up for your dremel tool. Sort of looks like a CNC table? Thanks!

Hi Brewnix. Thanks for the kind words.

Glad to share. The unit is simple to build as there are only two pieces. You can see a flat base screwed to my Dremel stand. The base has two sides that have grooves on top and there are cross members to keep this square and hold the threaded rod. Also, there are metal sleeves in the cross members to allow the rod to turn with little effort.

The top plate has guides glued and screwed to its underside that ride in the side groves. Note, there should be very little play in the grooves/slides for accuracy. That being said wood will expand and contract so this will never be as accurate as a professional metal unit but it gets the job done for me.

The top plate also has a block glued in the center of its underside that contains a nut. The threaded rod goes through the first cross member then the nut under the top plate and then through the second cross member. There are lock nuts on the rod outside the cross members that allow the threaded rod to turn but not move lengthwise. I added a wood handle to one end of the rod to make turning the rod easier than the small black knob in the first pic. When you turn the rod it moves the top plate side to side in the base grooves.

Also, the post in the back holds a threaded rod with knob that are attached with a "high tech" string to the handle on the Dremel stand. Turning this let's me adjust the depth of cut. The rod is tight in the post so it holds the arm in place.

Any questions just ask.

Ed

That is awesome! I Have to give this try...Thanks for sharing!

You are welcome.

Stay safe on the west coast. We are on the lookout for hurricanes here in Florida.:helpsmilie:

Ed